Picture by www.kaplun.de
One day you’ll decadently sip champagne on a Katamaran and let your sun-bronzed legs dangle over the crystal-clear waters… and the next you’ll happily let the wind ruin your hairdo on the Lasithi plateau with its many windmills….
The nature is absolutely stunning, but the thought of answering, “what I enjoyed most were the beautiful landscapes” felt way too cliché.
I reminisced for a minute and might have drooled a little while remembering the intense smell of oregano and the taste of freshly baked bread dipped into olive oil that tastes like sunshine… I finally came to the conclusion that what I liked best about Crete was the openness (you totally thought I was going to write about food again, didn’t you!).
This openness showed in many ways. Whereas in Germany, we are used to private grounds being well-fenced and marked by signage telling us to “keep out” and “beware of the dog”, there were hardly any fences to be seen in Crete.
The roads we followed during most of our Land Rover tour actually lead through fenced, private grounds, but they were not locked and it was well accepted to pass through, as long as you closed the gate behind you to stop any goats from fleeing.
But Crete’s openness extends beyond physical boundaries. On the way from the airport to the beautiful Daios Cove hotel, I noticed just how open conversations are held. My driver was remarkably outspoken (and well-versed) in conversing about the socio-cultural differences between Germany and Greece. While I usually stay clear of potentially controversial or too personal topics, he poured his heart out and shared his views on politics and religion, while remaining absolutely open friendly and likeable. It was refreshing.
The openness also showed in the obvious lack of distance between tourists and locals. While other touristic destinations can feel as little as though you are walking through Disney land, being invited to go on a ride here and enjoy cotton candy there, Crete is different. Things move at it’s own slower rhythm. Visitors are invited to participate in the dance as they please. I immediately felt integrated in the comings and goings, treated like an insider by everyone I had a conversation with.
Once, we were cruising through what felt like deserted mountain terrain only to turn a corner and find ourselves in a picturesque little village full of orange trees. A friendly old lady with a headscarf (a common view in Crete) waved at us and when we stopped to converse, she asked us to help her move a table, a little the way you would ask your child to give you a hand. After one of our companions happily obliged, she ushered him inside and poured him a shot of Raki. (A note of caution: what is considered a ‘shot’ in Crete is enough to get me slalom and whistle a merry tune.)
At a different occasion, on the night we camped outside, it took our host Cretan Nico exactly five minutes to give me a Greek nickname, because he felt that I looked Greek. He named me Chrissoulla. (If you speak German you can read all about it here). Chrissoula means the ‘golden one’. It might not sound fancy to Hispanic ears, but isn’t the meaning wonderful?
Picture by www.kaplun.de
Whenever I spoke to local people, I felt accepted, almost adopted into the family. And whether I liked it or not, I was called Chrissoula by everyone for the rest of the trip…
On my last day in Crete, I heavy-heartedly stocked up on olives, spices and olive oil to bring home in the village of Kritsa (a great place to go for Greek specialties, pottery, lace and leather sandals)… Then, I met the last living example of what it means to be openhearted: a wonderful lady named Argyro.
Picture by www.kaplun.de
Argyro owns a small hotel right at the entrance to the village of Kritsa. We headed there with our group for an outdoor cooking class. She received us with open arms (literally) and wouldn’t let me go afterwards. She led me into her beautiful courtyard in the cooling shade of the grapevines, where she immediately poured the mandatory shot of Raki.
Afterwards, she ushered me to a table where she had set up her camping stove and all the ingredients for our meal. We used only freshly picked home-grown vegetables from the garden and delicious local GAEA olive oil. Argyro happily chattered away in Greek and pointed at each of the ingredients, making me repeat the names. She seemed highly entertained, whether about my pronunciation or the faces I made in the process, I don’t know.
We made a mouth-watering Greek salad and a delicious Greek chicken stew. Argyro explained (in Greek and with hands and feet) that the secret to this recipe is to mix of half a coup of tomato purée with a cup of white wine for extra body…
As we sat down to enjoy our meal, Argyro cheekily whispered in my ear: “Chrissoulla, you golden. I, Argyro, silver. We go together”.
Crete, I will never forget you or your people.
Know before you go:
If you visit Crete, definitely plan extra time for some inland cruising (I know, it’s hard to leave the coast behind, but it’s totally worth it). There is so much to see! The tour I did was organized by the Daios Cove Hotel in cooperation with Land Rover Germany. They offer a range of tours for anyone who wants to get a taste of Crete off the beaten track. Find out more here.
The Daios Cove is absolutely wonderful, with such a nifty construction that it features beautiful views of the private bay from almost everywhere. The food is delicious, the service excellent yet very natural and a swim in the infinity pool a must.
For anyone looking for a budget option and the real Cretan deal, you might want to check out Argyro’s rooms. She recently renovated a part of her hotel and welcomes many repeat guests for as little as 30 EUR a night.
About the author:
Anaïs is a modern nomad. She has lived in 7 countries and has moved 15 times to date. She used to work in 5* hotels until she decided to become self-employed. Today she runs her own business, turning stiff service und fake marketing into hearty openness and personality-infused truths. Anaïs has a Bachelor in Hotel Management and a Master of Science in Organisational Behaviour. She loves working and writing in fluent German, English and Spanish.
