Local crafts for sale at Accra’s National Art Center. Photo by Dawn Kissi.
Kotoka International Airport, airport of the West African nation of Ghana, is small, and although increasingly busy as more airlines gain access, does not operate 24 hours a day and is currently undergoing much-needed upgrades.
But once through the exaggerated chaos of baggage reclaim, Accra awaits. The historic capital city of the Gold Coast nation is growing up, and emerging as a must-visit city in West Africa.
Its notable history, safe, friendly and bustling streets, and a steadily expanding hotel sector are just part of Accra’s appeal. Established universities are hosting more international students, widespread infrastructure improvements and a welcoming population are adding to the increase in tourism, as well as business start-ups. Google making Accra its west African base was a significant move.
First-timers to the capital owe it to themselves to read up on the history of Ghana as a whole. Its road to independence and subsequent democracy are unique to the region. Food, music, crafts and an entrepreneurial culture make Accra a fun, intriguing and sometimes overwhelming city to visit.
For those with the cash, Swiss hotel chain Movenpick has made a stylish mark in Accra with its Ambassador Hotel on Independence Avenue. The place to stay in Accra and centrally situated in a business district, near various government ministries, the Movenpick Ambassador Hotel in Accra is where international tourists, businesses and sophisticates stay when visiting the capital.
Its outdoor cabanas and two pools are perfect for an evening cocktail, with waiters expediting service on roller-blades, the wait is never a long one for your next drink. Inside the hotel, every floor is lined with well-placed art–all 1500 pieces having been commissioned by modern Ghanaian artists, which were acquired by a local art consultant. The Movenpick Ambassador Hotel may still be the relatively new kid on the hotel block, but it’s gaining significant ground in attracting both corporate and domestic tourists.
Also new in town is Villa Monticello, which bills itself as a boutique hotel. The sub-continent is not known for the kind of boutique hotel culture found in Europe and the U.S. are, however, Villa Monticello and newly-opened with the 22-room La Villa Boutique Hotel – housed in the former Russian Embassy building – has done a fine job of trying. Somewhat secluded and in a good area of Accra, one must either know the streets well, or follow the signage leading to these hotels. A small outdoor pool and bar await guests at both establishments, as well as well-appointed themed suites. As of summer 2012, daily rates were higher at Villa Monticello than Movenpick, but worth it for those who know what they are looking for in a hotel.
No visit to Accra is truly complete without sampling local cuisine. While it pays to be cautious and look for sanitary conditions when pursuing the chop bars and market stalls, street food can be tasty, filling and the cheapest grub in town. After grabbing a bite, make your way to the National Arts Center, where haggling is a must. Everything from footwear, local crafts, leather accessories, gadgets and traditional Ghanaian fabrics and more can be found here, just bring cash and patience—needed to ward of some of the more aggressive hawkers outside the area.
Accra Mall could be worth a visit for those seeking international brands as well as local items. Easily accessible, the Mall is open seven days a week and offers parking, a supermarket and more; it’s not uncommon to find ex-pats roaming around in the complex. After some shopping, a live-band and fun crowd await you at Labadi Beach, a well-known resort and bar. It’s a favorite of jet-setters, locals and rarely disappoints, and a sauna, two restaurants and pool await you when you’re ready to unwind.
On a good afternoon, visit the memorial and mausoleum grounds of Kwame Nkrumah National Park. The late and revered leader of Ghana and his wife are memorialized on expansive grounds and a small museum. The museum houses everything from family photos, to the blazer he wore to his first visit to the United Nations, to photos of him dancing with Britain’s Queen Elizabeth – though it’s somewhat ironic to see a photo of Nkrumah dancing with the same woman whose very kingdom Ghana overthrew in 1957.
Ghana is still very much and emerging and in some respects, what some will call a frontier market. Yes, there is poverty scattered throughout the country, and yes, your Internet connection may not be the strongest in certain areas of the country. However you will be greeted warmly, and are guaranteed an eye-opening and even fulfilling experience when visiting the Gold Coast.
