Ukraine is a fascinating place sandwiched between Russia and Europe. The last massive buffer zone between the European bloc and the growing world powers of the world's biggest country. With a long history of settlement stretching back over 30,000 years and centuries of wars with invaders, Ukraine's lands have been conquered and divided up since making first set foot here.
The last 100 years have been particularly brutal with the post-First World War period defined by chaos and anarchy. The famine in Soviet Ukraine from 1932 to 1933 killed up to 10 million Ukrainians. This period is considered a famine-Genocide called the Holodomor caused when vast fertile Ukrainian crop lands were exploited by Stalin's Soviet Party.
During the Second World War, the Nazis took control of Lviv in June 1941, essentially invading the Soviet Union in the process. Millions of Ukrainians died, hundreds of thousands were displaced.
The Soviet Union collapsed in 1991 and for the first tine in a long time, Ukraine became a free, independent state. But the trouble continued. Protestors against the corrupt government in 2013 and 2014 eventually resulted in street battles in the capital, Kyiv, where 80 people died.
In the same year, Russia annexed the Crimean Peninsula and separatists in the east of the country instigated fighting
Against this backdrop, the modern state of Ukraine is still in a state of flux. With corruption and economic crises a daily part of life here, there's plenty of reasons not to be optimistic. Yet, the people of Ukraine are strong-willed and patriotic (as demonstrated by the enormous marches of 2013-2014). They believe in their country and understand it's strategic importance to Eastern and Western powers. For visitors, it's a fascinating place. It's also a complicated place and unlike any other. There are many layers to Ukraine and these photos can't do it justice. But there's plenty of beauty to be found. Incredible historical cities are just waiting to be explored. With the currency at an all time low, Ukraine is an inexpensive destination offering many of the charms of major European cities at a fraction of the price.
Kyiv - Ukraine's Vibrant Capital
The beauty of major European cities with a fraction of the tourists.
The capital of Ukraine, Kyiv, is an impressive city spanning the wide Dnieper River with gorgeous parks and plenty off recreational areas.
The city offers plenty for history buffs and fans of architecture. While Kyiv is big, it's also a great city for walking. The subway can transport you to many of the main spots. On the weekend, locals go to hang out in the parks. Seems that Kyivians that spend their afternoons in these parks and public spaces are happy in their own world, living in the moment, as it were. With so many people around, it would be easy to imagine a kind of chaos. But there's a real sense of serenity. Kyiv felt like a very safe place, despite being one of Eastern Europe's big cities.
One of the symbols of Kyiv and of Ukraine, the 76 metre-tall bell tower overlooking Sofiyivska Square is a gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage Listed site of Saint-Sophia Cathedral.
From the Bell Tower Of Saint Sophia's Cathedral, walk across Sofiyivska Square and follow Volodymyrs'kyi Passage until you reach the beautiful baroque-style men's monastery of St. Michael's. This is one of the most popular and beautiful buildings in the country. It's easy to see why.
Note: the current building is a reconstruction (1999) of the original building that was demolished by Stalin.The premiere location for Opera and Ballet in Ukraine is the gorgeous Opera house at the junction of Bohdana Khmelnytskoho St. and Volodymyrs'ka St. This was once one of the most popular and important opera houses in the soviet union.
The beautifully kept gardens and walkways make the city's parks one of the best places to relax in the city. Taras Shevchenko Park is right in the downtown area and popular with hipsters and families. Pushkin Park is a bit further out but a great place for joggers and family outings. Khreshchatyy Park sits on the right bank of the Dnieper river and offers some of the best views of the city.
Ukrainian food is delicious. Borscht is one of those dishes that you either love or hate. There's little in between. A very satisfying soup that will warm the belly of any visitor during the brutal Ukrainian winters. Chicken Kiev, by the way, was not developed in the Ukrainian capital. The dish is a Russian invention (something most modern Kyivians might not be too happy to admit) and earned it's name from how it was marketed in the United States to Eastern European and Soviet immigrants.
Lviv - Western Ukraine's Largest City
Ukraine's Bustling Student Town with Amazing Cafe Culture, Events, and Eastern European Food
Like a mini Prague or Krakow, Lviv is a charming place and one of the most touristed cities in Ukraine. The city was once part of Poland and the Polish border is only about 70km away. Culture vultures, fans of 19th century architecture, and lovers of the cafe society will love Lviv. Thanks in part to the large student community in the city, there's always plenty of things to do. There are over 100 festivals every year in Lviv and you can always find live music or an event.
The old town is small enough that you can walk around the whole place in a day. But it's likely you'll miss the most interesting parts of Lviv . Get a tour guide, hire a local, or befriend someone who knows the city well. There are hidden bars, restaurants, coffee shops, and places to hang out everywhere in this compact city.
In Lviv, few people speak English and it can be a challenge to travel here. Ukrainian is the main language spoken. If you enjoy learning languages, you have the perfect opportunity to practise. Russian will get you further than English.
Odessa - Black Sea Port & Resort Town
Ukraine's Beautiful Black Sea Port Town and Vacation Spot
Odessa is one of the main domestic Ukrainian vacation spots. Situated on the Black Sea, it's one of the furthest south towns in the country, and is only about 60km from the Moldovan border. The weather here in summer is Mediterranean, similar to the weather in the South of France, Italy, and the Greek Islands.
With some of the best coffee shops in Europe at some of the lowest prices, the city is a great destination for coffeeholics. Odessa has many, many coffee shops and locals love their artisan brews.
Despite the hordes of tourists (over 6 million in 2018), there's an air of calm in Odessa. Most visitors are Ukrainian and families who spend their day by the sea intermingle with partygoers in the hundreds of restaurants around the city, before the party crowd head to the clubs. Odessa is one of the main domestic Ukrainian vacation spots.
Odessa's architecture is French/Italian influenced, with many Art Nouveau buildings mixed with Renaissance styled facades around the city. Most of the buildings constructed in the 18th and 19th centuries survived intact during the European wars and this gives Odessa a special appeal for fans of architecture.
Situated on the Black Sea, it's one of the furthest south towns in the country, and is only about 60km from the Moldovan border. The weather here in summer is similar to the weather in the south of France, Italy, and the Greek Islands.
Ukraine Travel Tips
1.Learn some Russian or Ukrainian
Knowing some Russian will serve you well in the East of the country. Ukrainian is favored by Western Ukrainians. Pride in their own language has created a frenzy of interest in promoting the Ukrainian language. Some bars in the country ban people from using the Russian language. In 2019, the Ukrainian government passed a law which bans Russian in official settings. However, many people understand the language and it's also used in several other countries. Ukrainian is less useful (outside of the country) but will be appreciated more by locals, especially in cities like Lviv.
Check out this guide to language learning apps
2. Plan your visits for the best weather
The best time to visit Ukraine is summer, without a doubt. Winters are brutal and travel can be difficult when there's a metre of snow on the ground. Odessa is warmer in winter, thanks to the warming influence of the Black Sea, but it still snows in winter and can get bitterly cold from December to February. The best time to visit touristic Lviv is in the shoulder seasons when there are fewer tourists but the weather is still nice. May is a rainy month, so try for September if you want the best weather with the fewest tourists.
3. Get an English-speaking tour guide for the cities
For a more in-depth view of this fascinating country, have a local (or knowledgable foreigner) show you around. Kyiv, in particular, is a massive city and a tour guide will save you from traveling all over the place and will help you understand the city better than any guide book.
4. Bring cash
The local currency, Hryvnia (UAH) is still king (almost) here. Don't expect to be able to use your credit card everywhere. Carry some notes with you as you will definitely need some when you're out and about exploring.
5. Check the visa policy for your country
Ukraine is not in the European Union or the Schengen area. While it's easy to cross over from Poland, Romania, Hungary, and Slovenia, you will leave the EU zone when doing so. EU passport holders and citizens of dozens of other countries get up to 90 days within any 180 period. Other countries must apply for an electronic visa, which gives a 30-day visit period.
6. Don't skip the capital
Many people visit Kyiv for the sole purpose of travelling to the Chernobyl disaster zone. Thanks to the popular TV series, the Chernobyl facility has seen a huge increase in visitors. Make sur you book in advance. And don't miss out on the sights of the capital city. It's definitely worth a few days of your time.
7. Get a SIM card
Mobile phone SIM cards are very cheap and the connectivity is good. Buy the best plan that covers your visit and enjoy super cheap internet on your mobile devices. Your phone can also be used as a hotspot for your computer in some cases but check with the SIM card provider as this is not always allowed.
8. Get travel insurance
The Ukrainian medical care system and local facilities are still dragging themselves out of the Soviet way of doing things. Corruption over the years means that health care is behind the level of most of Europe. Travel and medical insurance will help you get the best treatment available if something should happen. The population of the country is actually declining and much of this is because of poor health regimes and poor health care.
Safety Wing offers comprehensive travel insurance for short-term and long-term travel.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to travel in Ukraine?Not a lot. Ukraine is one of Europe's
Is it The Ukrain or just Ukraine?The latter. By removing the "the" from the title, Ukraine sounds more like a country than a territory (of the ex-Soviet Union)
Is travel in Ukraine expensive?One of Europe's cheapest destinations, coming in at number 127 of 138 on the Numbeo Cost Of Living Index.
What is Ukrainian cuisine like?It's really good. Based mostly on peasant dishes and including flavors and cooking methods from all of the people that crossed through and conquered these lands, Ukrainian cuisine is simple food with good ingredients and subtle flavors.
When is the best time to visit Ukraine?Between May and October. Better weather all around.
Who can enter Ukraine without a visa?Most countries can enter Ukraine without a visa for stays of up to 90 days within a 180 day period. Check your passport's specific visa requirements on the official website of the ministry of foreign affairs.
What are the highlights of Ukraine?There are many but here's a good list to start with: A tour of Pripyat (the city that serviced Chernobyl), Hiking the Carpathian Mountains, wandering the streets of Lviv, exploring Kyiv/Kiev, attending an opera in Lviv, Kyiv, or Odessa, visiting UNESCO World Heritage Site Chernivtsi, eating Borscht in a traditional restaurant, visit and dine at the Salo Art Museum, drink cava, snap the sunrise at the Pink Lake, take the world's deepest metro elevator, tour the Odessa Catacombs, and photograph the Tunnel of Love.
Is Ukraine a safe country?On Numbeo's Crime statistics (crowd-sourced) table of 430 countries, Ukrainian cities rank in the middle. The country is mostly safe, but be aware in larger cities, and stay away from war zones (yep, there's one in the Donbas region). Lviv is the safest major city in the country.
Important stuff now: what's the price of a beer in Ukraine?A pint of draught local beer costs roughly 30 UAH or 1.10 USD according to Numbeo (and from personal experience)
Where can I learn Russian or Ukrainian?
Learn Russian and Ukrainian with one-on-one class services like iTalki and Preply, or self-teaching apps like Mondly, Glossika, or Busuu.
Do they speak English in Ukraine?
Many young people speak some English in Kyiv and Odessa. Otherwise, English-language competence is low.
