The 7th Century rock cut Trikkur Mahadeva Temple
I first heard about the Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram through a follower of the Aalayam Kanden Trust facebook page. Coincidentally, I was traveling to Guruvayur and Trichur in the following week and hence wrote back to him asking for further details like temple timings, contact details etc. Unfortunately, I could not get that information prior to my travel. This is turn added to the excitement, for we did not know the exact location and timings, route or nothing further other than the fact that this was one among the oldest and very few rock cut Shiva temples of Kerala.As usual, our taxi driver gave us a blank look when we mentioned Trikkur to him. He thought we were mispronouncing Trichur. When we explained the location and whereabouts of the temple, the passersby also gave the distinctive shrug and shake of the head to say they did not know.
When we finally found the temple and started the climb up the small hillock, we found the priest walking down after locking the temple. We were totally disappointed that all our efforts since morning had failed. The priest however, seeing us slow down, stopped to inform us that the "Chechimaar"were still at the temple and we could go in.
The entrance to the Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram
The sanctum sanctorum is within a cave on a hillock. Extensions have been made to include an artha Mandapa and a Nada with steps leading to the main shrine. Apart from this, the rocks also hold the office block and other shrines. There is also a circumambulatory path to go around the temple.This temple is an ASI protected monument.History of Thrikkur Mahadeva Kshetram:
Trikkur is situated on the shores of the Manali River, around ten kilometers north-east of Thrichur. The Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram is located about 200m above the sea level. In this temple, Lord Shiva resides as a Syambhoo. The majestically beautiful deity, is over six feet tall and is over two feet wide. The Sanctum Sanctorum is located within a cave that is twelve feet long and eight feet wide. The cave opens out towards the north. In front of the sanctum sanctorum is a Mugha mandapa, that is carved fully out of rock. Even though the deity faces the east , during the Darshan, the devotees get to see the right side of the Linga. ( ‘Parshwa Darshan”.)
The stone carved Mukha Mandapam insdie the Trikkur Mahadeva Temple
The temple is believed to be created by the Lord of fire, Lord Agni. It is also believed that Agni eternally resides alongside Lord Shiva. Due to this, the Ezhunnellath ( the ushering of the deity outside the temple) is never done on rainy days or on the days when the atmosphere is cloudy. Goddess Parvathi too, perpetually resides alongside the Lord Shiva, personifying knowledge. Towards the west side of the Sreekovil, Ganapathi is engraved on the wall of the cave. On the east side are two Dwarapalakas (guards) and on the Mugha Mandap, resides a Saalagrama, which is said to have immense Vaishnava Chaithanya .The floor, laden with rock, and the Namasakara Mandap, which is constructed from sixteen rock pillars have a large number of beautiful carvings on them. Towards the north of the temple are constructed a Kuthumadam and a Rangashaala. It is here, that, Saraswati Pooja and Chakyar Koothu are conducted during Navraatri and Utsavas respectively. It is also believed that this temple was first found by a person, belonging to a class considered untouchable in those days. He had been searching for his cow that had gone grazing, when he chanced upon this cave. He found the cow in the cave along with the magnificient form of Lord Shiva. He immediately ran and reported this to his master, a Namboodiri.The Namboodiri, immediately visited the place, and seeing the magnificient form of the Lord manifested in the cave, performed poojas to him. A floor has erected in front of the temple, in memory of the man who had first sighted this temple. In the Utsava times, it is on this floor, that Kurathiyattam is performed. Since it was here that the temple was sighted – the village was named Dhrukpuram. (Dhrushti – sight) . Over time, the word Dhrukpuram shortened to Trikkur, goes the myth.Cure for breathing difficulties:
There are numerous temples around the country that offer solace and relief to different problems. The uniqueness about the Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram is that it gives relief to those who are suffering from breathing difficulties like Asthma, and breathlessness. The method of worship used to be rid of these ailments is also unique.
Kayar Vazhipaadu(The Rope Offering)Yards of rope are offered at the feet of the Lord, or in the form of Rope Thulabhara ( offering rope equivalent to one's weight) . This Kayar Vazhipadu is said to have divine powers to heal Asthma and people belonging to different religions and castes come to this temple to offer Kayar Vazhipaadu to the Lord and cure themselves of respiratory illnesses. This method of cure is termed as ‘DaivaVyaapaashraya Chikitsa’ in Ayurveda. The Chechimaar at the temple also mentioned that if one paid Rs.500 for this offering, then the Kayar Vazhipaadu would be done on their behalf for twelve years. A look at the yards of rope in the temple one could well imagine the number of people who offered such rope to be rid of breathing difficulties.
Yards of rope offered as Thulabara to Trikkur Mahadeva
Apart from the Rope Thulabhara which is the most popular form of offering, devotees also offer Dhara (Abhishekam) of 108 and 1008 pots of water at noon, once they have been cured of breathing difficulties.Lord Shiva is fond of Vilvam (Bilwa/Koovaram). Offering Pushpanjali with fifty one Vilva leaves is also another way of expressing their gratitude after being cured. For children who are suffering from breathing difficulties, Karuka Homam or lighting of Pin Vilaku (lamp behind the Lord) is also done apart from the Kayar Vazhibadu.
The Dwajasthambam at Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram
The sacrificial stones (balikallu) and the flag pole (Kodimaram) are situated to the right of the temple. Ganapathi, Sastha, Antimahakalan , Kaali, Bhagavathi and Chaamundi are all found at different spots on the hillock. The Saptamatrikas are housed in what is called a Matrusaala. This concept and architecture of Maatrusala is found very rarely in Kerala. In the south west corner, the Naga deities are also housed.
The Saptamatrikas on top of the hillock
At the top of the rock, there exists a miniature well, which has a constant, natural supply of water. It is known as the Theertha well , though hardly anyone ever uses the water in this well. Even in the hottest of summers, this well, miraculously, never runs dry.
One of the shrines on top of the hillock.
There are numerous rock engravings found in this temple, closely associated with Jain religion. It is said that many Jain saints have undergone their penance on this hillock prior to it becoming a Saivaite temple.Procedure for praying at the Trikkur Mahadeva Temple:All devotees must start their worship by first bowing to the Dhwajasthamba. Above the Dwajasthamba, is a Ganapathi who is worshipped next, either from below or if one has the ability, by going up the rocktop.
Ganapathi on top of the hillock at Trikkur Mahadeva Kshetram
Then they must pray to the Sapthamatrikas and continue to circumambulate to the south west corner and prays to the Nagayakshi and the Nagaraja. After this, they must circumambulate through the North Nada and pray to Ganapathi/Sastha/Anthimahakalan/Bhadrakali/Bhagavathi/Chamundi all found next to each other on the North east part of the temple.
The circumambulatory path around the hillock
Proceeding to the main shrine , the devotees must pray to Lord Shiva, circumambulate the Mandapa, say a silent prayer to Lord Ganesha, come back to the main shrine and seek blessings of Lord Shiva again.
Festivals at the templeThe main and the most anticipated festival is the Utsav which culminates on the Thiruvathira day in the month of Makara, with the Aaarattu (ritual bath) . The Lord is taken out in procession every day (Shreeveli). The special sacrifice, called Utsavabali, which was previously performed only on a single day is now performed on five days, as a vazhipaadu (offering). This offering is made to the Lord in the belief that performing this rite would satisfy all prayers of the devotees. The sheer number of devotees who throng the temple to perform this offering to the Lord is in itself, an indicator of the significance of this festival.The Kodiyettam (flag hoisting) and the Aaraattu are done in the night. On the Valiyavilakku day, the temple is decked out in full grandeur with innumerable flowers and lamps. Eminent personalities and the cream of Kerala’s culture line up at the temple on the day of the Pancharimela (the Chenda concert). The Pallivetta ( the royal hunt) and the Aarattu are extremely colorful and pleasing , in an atmosphere that is highly charged with devotion. It is believed that, after the Pallivetta on the east, the Lord traces his route back to the temple. This is called Thirichezhunnallath. In all the other similar Mahakshetras like Ernakulam, Avittathur and Chengannur, the Utsava is done at the same time.
Pancha Gavya AbhishekaFrom the Uthradam day to the Makaram day of the Malayalam Month of Thulam, Pancha Gavya abhisheka (Abhisheka with five products from the cow) is done to the lord. This is done during the Noon pooja. In the bathing ghats where the Noon pooja is performed, the Panchagavya, sanctified by prayer is given to the devotees. It is believed that Pancha Gavya is a concoction that has miraculous medicinal effects. Several devotees throng the temple daily to partake of the Pancha Gavya. After twelve days of the aforementioned Pancha Gavya routine, the lord is given Kalabha abhisheka ( sandalwood paste). This twelve day routine culminates with the Ghee abhisheka, done during the Nirmalya Pooja on the star sign, Punartham. MahashivraathriChanting of the Aghanda Nama from morning, the Sayana pradakshina(Angapradhakshinam) after Deeparadhana and the Maha Rudhrabhisheka at night are the main rites during the Mahashivraathri day. Though it is said to be extremely taxing on the body, a huge number of devotees turn up each day to perform Sayana pradakshina on the holy premises of the temple.
The beautiful pillared hall before the Dwajasthamba
Dhanu maasa thiruvathiraOn the Thiruvathira day of the Malayalam month of Dhanu, women observe strict rituals. On this day, Rudrabhisheka is done in the morning. During Rudrabhisheka, eleven elements – Oil, panchagavya, Panchamrutha, milk, curd, ghee, honey,sugar cane extract , coconut water and pure water is sanctified by prayer and used for performing the ritual. In accompaniment would be an elaborate musical arrangement of percussion and other instruments, called Panchavadya. In nights, women forego sleep and perform art and dance forms such as Thiruvathira. PradoshamOn all the Pradosha days, at dusk, a special Ksheerabhisheka (Milk Abhisheka) and pooja. It is believed that Pradosha is the favorite Muhurtha (occasion) of the Lord. It is believed that, at this muhurtha, the Lord would grant whatever wish the devotee asks of him.
How to reach here:
Trikkur is about ten kilometres from Trichur in Kerala. Google map link here.
Temple timings:
The sanctum sanctorum is open from 7 am to 10 am in the morning and again from 5 pm to 8 pm in the evening. All other parts of the temple are open through the day.
Contact Details:
Phone Number: 0487- 2359500Email: [email protected]
Acknowledgement:
My sincere thanks to Rahul Kochuparambil for helping with the translation of documents received from the temple in order to give complete information in this article.
