Sandakan had me feeling thankful! Yes, that certain Sabah island location felt like a million miles away from the madness of Kuala Lumpur! Taking things near to the ocean, I was about to enter the jungle but I knew that Sepilok could wait for a little longer! From a quick change to a familiar pie lunch, I was surprised! Agnes Keith? I didn't know her! Borneo, she better did not!
Cameron Highlands had been a whole mood and more but I literally had three hours sleep before I had to make my way to Kuala Lumpur International Airport for my earlier than early morning flight to Sandakan. Air Asia got me to where I needed to be and I wasn't mad because I had slept on that budget airline flight! I loved Sandakan's miniature airport, something told me that I would be appreciating the hop from check-in to the boarding gate before leaving to Kota Kinabalu. After dropping my bags at my Sepilok Rainforest Lodge, I flagged another 'Grab' back into town because people had said that Sandakan City served the Realness! Those city views did not lie, there was a working class feel in the air and I wasn't mad about that! Malaysia continued to keep things real and true, no falsehoods were being served in Sandakan. Oh, I needed to make a quick-change with a certain shopping center hooking me up with even an Iced Milo on the way out! Looking left and right, I headed towards the waters edge with a certain sign clocked. Bliss!
I had gotten used to the whole 'Halal' business, things seemed to become normal to not see any bars nor alcohol per say. As mentioned, I enjoyed my Iced Milo because the weather had really turned up the heat since I had traveled to a different part of Malaysia. Oh yes, I saw that 'SANDAKAN' sign as I stood near that shopping center with hardly any reason for me to miss it. To see the ocean in front of me felt absolutely correct, I had left behind a rather chilly China and really loved and needed those Malaysian views like never before! Content with that view, I headed along the main high street to have a mooch. I loved seeing Sandakan getting on with business, there was a certain grit about that main street with the mood serving normality. It really felt that foreign tourists skip this part of town, I understood that those orangutan attract visitors to Sepilok and Sandakan is just for the airport. I wanted to see more than just the forest!
I wasn't stupid to know that my time in Sandakan City would only be a half-day thing, leaving the town center had to be done because I had other things to explore. I found a small stone statue before I climbed a set of colourful steps. That commemorative statue or monument stood to remember the founder of Sandakan, being William Pryer. Part of the Heritage Trails, it was handy to know this location because it helped me connect the town center with those hilltop points of interest. I was learning fast that Sandakan had been treated questionably in the past, falling prey to its ocean-side location on the cusp of the Philippines with many European forces vying for North Borneo's former sovereignty. For me in that moment it was amazing to be almost over the water from the Philippines because I already had my Chinese New Year trip booked and paid for to several Pinoy destinations in February 2024. Truthfully, without much clue about the town, Pryer's monument kept me on track! Oh, Sandakan served hidden depths.
Embarking on what felt like an almighty climb, that early morning alarm call started to catch up with me. Getting my pace even really didn't happen, I did not cope well with those unforgiving stairs. Of course, those Heritage Trail stairs served a tropical color scheme but I was tired! I knew that the only way would be up and I didn't want to pay for a Grab to reach the top of the hill. Really, that enduring wall to the top refreshed me in the end and saved a few Ringgits even when I couldn't spend them in the first place! Sandakan really gave me a lot to say 'Thanks For Everything' because I had not expected to see anything! To be honest, I had half planned to take a day tour from Kota Kinabalu to see the orangutan but something compelled me to book those domestic flights and that Sepilok accommodation near Sandakan. Not to mention just building a sweat up but an appetite rivaled such a feeling as the summit of those stairs neared. Agnes Keith House and a certain 'English Tea House & Restaurant' were both just around the corner! Get it!
An American in Borneo? Quite, Agnes Keith spent a serious amount of time in this former 'British Colonial Government Quarter'. Along with her husband, Harry Keith a British conservationist, Agnes wrote many books during her time on what was called 'British North Borneo'. I felt a certain attachment toward this outpost looking house, it gave a sense of British Colonial Realness. As I stepped into that museum-like house, it was easy to see the stature the Keith's would have held during that time. The size of the rooms amazed me, they lived in some pretty spacious settings with a pretty impressive view over the city. I did take some notice of the history but I didn't know who Agnes Keith was at all and to be honest I was more interested in the connections between British ruled Borneo, Hong Kong and Singapore than her life of blatant luxury. The historic photos that depicted Sandakan back in the 1880's made it look British in every sense with those tiled roofed buildings serving 'Britannia!' I needed something to eat, fast!
Before calling it a day, I was able to randomly find the 'English Tea House & Restaurant' in front of Agnes Keith House. I was able to snag a table outside and order a chicken pie with chips. My only gripe was that no alcohol was being served because it gave the perfect setting for an ice cold 'Gin & Tonic'. It was a peaceful location, it was nice to see the manicured gardens in full view, it was correct to feel another smattering of calm. My pie was delicious, it reminded me of home with every single piece consumed, shame the chips weren't freshly made but life goes on. I had enjoyed my snapshot day in Sandakan City, it was something different without any pretense. Finding an unexpected contact through my Grab driver, I was able to book a firefly and mangrove boat trip for the following evening. Retiring to my Sepilok property felt correct, it had been a long day and I wanted to make the most of the peace and quiet. Sandakan dialed down the pace, giving me a different essence of Malaysia entirely. Make way for Sepilok, I was ready!
Save It For Sandakan!
Desperately Seeking Adventure
