A few months after the world shut down this past spring, about what he thought of fashion's possible future. Simons, who's known in fashion circles for introducing a generation of men to the skinny black suit, was sitting in his apartment in Antwerp at the time while wearing elasticated easy pants and a hoodie. He ruminated on what fashion might look like after this pandemic. "I think there must be a bunch of people out there, when they start thinking about fashion, who don't want to be reminded of the shitty time they had at home in the last five months. But -" He hesitated. "It's just so personal. I have no clue. [...] honestly, I haven't worn a piece of fashion in months."
That's mostly the feeling I get when I think about fashion nowadays. But recently, I've been enjoying Mark Cho's new YouTube series , titled "Dress to Ingest." In a series of relaxing videos that run between five and ten minutes, Mark sits down with various Hong Kong restauranteurs to talk about their signature dishes. The videos are meant to give people some context on where they can wear tailored clothing, here being at restaurants (oh, the dream of living under a functioning government). "They say you don't appreciate it until it's gone," Mark tells me. "Tailoring is often misunderstood only as a 'formal' option, but there's a difference between 'formal' and 'dressed up.' 'Formal' is serious and somber. 'Dressed up' is simply being invested in your appearance for your benefit and others around you. There has always been something precious about breaking bread with friends and family. Given how seldom we see each other now, why not give these rare occasions the celebration they deserve?"
I don't wear tailored clothing as much as I used to, given that I mostly spend my days at home. But I've tried to make an effort to wear nicer clothes when I can - a sport coat for short walks around the neighborhood, better flannel shirts even when I'm at home, a nicer pair of pants that I used to reserve for going to the city. "Outside" clothes help break up what's become a very monotonous life at home . Plus, on the few occasions when I can safely meet with friends, I've taken the opportunities to "dress up" more than I used to. The future of fashion is still uncertain, and yet, clothes continue to be one of our small comforts. In that spirit, here are eleven things I'm excited to wear this season.
When Max Papier at The Armoury showed me a photo of this sport coat last month, I knew I had to buy one. It's The Armoury's Model 3 made in Loro Piana's Coarsehair fabric, an 11oz cashmere-mohair-silk blend. The cashmere lends a bit of softness and warmth, the mohair a crisp hand, and the silk a bit of luster. In The Armoury's unpadded Model 3 cut, which has a soft, slightly rounded silhouette vaguely reminiscent of Liverano, it feels comfortably warm and lightweight for fall. The best part is the coloration. Loro Piana has a reputation for making luxurious fabrics that feel classic, but also modern, sophisticated, and unique. This one comes in a mix of oatmeal, chocolate, and toffee browns, as well as a subtle yellow overcheck to give the pattern some energy. It reminds me of Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, which recently earned the top spot in FiveThirtyEight's Ultimate Holloween Candy Power Ranking (a shockingly accurate list with not a single candy out of place). I think the Coarsehair sport coat looks especially good with taupe trousers. The Armoury also has a mid-blue sport coat this season that look wonderful, as well as a special edition navy twill cloth from Taylor & Lodge to celebrate their tenth anniversary.
I've always thought the classic navy blazer is too preppy, flashy, and otherwise inauthentic to my lifestyle. The single-breasted version goes back to British rowing club jackets, which were originally worn to signify membership. As someone living in California, the only membership I have is to Costco. But a few months ago, while cleaning out my closet, I noticed that I have too many navy sport coats - two for spring, two for fall, and a double-breasted serge for winter. So I decided to buy some brass buttons and convert one into a blazer.
Navy blazers are still a niche item in most men's closets. They're too formal for leisure, too flashy for offices, and too conservative for the young. But if you already have a few navy sport coats in your wardrobe, it will cost almost nothing to experiment. You can wear a blazer with grey flannel trousers, tan flat-front chinos, brown five-pocket cords, or even blue jeans. Plus, in this COVID-era, it just feels good to wear something special the few times you leave home.
When I go out nowadays, it's often for a very short errand, such as getting groceries or supplies. As such, I often struggle to pull together an outfit that I may only wear for a few hours. Ironing a dress shirt is almost out of the question. I often don't even want to change pants. Yet, I also want to feel good about myself. This is the constant dilemma of my existence: wanting to feel good without putting in any work.
Blessed be the man who's always beautifully tailored, neatly groomed, and lives within the four walls of an idyllic Instagram shot. Regrettably, I am not that person. I'm often in vintage flannel shirts, old jeans, and a beanie, which covers up my now overgrown quarantine hair. When I just need to get things done outside, I throw on a vintage Lee denim trucker jacket. The company's iconic 101J is defined by its zig-zag stitching, stitched-down pleats, and slanted chest pockets that aim upwards towards the shoulder joints. More importantly, the jacket is cut with a slightly more tapered, v-shaped silhouette . It's a little shorter than Levi's and has a dropped shoulder seam, which I think makes the style look more appealing. Levi's truckers look a bit too clean-cut for me, whereas Lee's feels rugged. It's a bit closer to Kapital, in that regard.
After waiting all year for this jacket to drop, I was excited to buy it from No Man Walks Alone (a sponsor on this site). It has an oversized, puffy, rounded silhouette, as would be true for CWU-45 originals (No Man Walks Alone recommends sizing up, but I think you should take your regular size). Getting a heavy knit in there, such as an LL Bean Shaker swearer or indigo RRL sweatshirt , will help fill up the volume inside. A Filson beanie will also help balance out your proportions. Wear this parachute jacket when you're dropping into the DMs or want to float through the remainder of this terrible year.
In a word, Jacques Marie Mage's eyewear makes you feel glamourous. Most models are thick, blocky, and slightly oversized, as though you're the type of person who needs to hide from the public. Many are inspired by historical style icons, such as Dennis Hopper's thick square frames in the 1969 film , or the cat-eyed spectacles Bob Dylan wore when he defiantly played electric sets to booing crowds. The company doesn't necessarily aim to recreate these frames, but rather the mood that defined these moments. My favorite models include the (inspired by Dennis Hopper ), (for a hint of Michael Caine ), and the recently released PCH made in collaboration with milliner Nick Fouquet. Prices are tear-jerkingly expensive, but at least the oversized, tinted lenses will hide your crying eyes. On the upside, I've seen them sometimes included in Mr. Porter's end-of-season sales .
Fall is about comfortable clothing at its heart, but the word "comfortable" did not always mean physical ease and relaxation. For hundreds of years, it reflected its Late Latin root confortare , which means to strengthen or console. We still use the word in this way today when we say someone "took comfort" or "was comforted." In the Bible, the Holy Spirit is referred to as the Comforter. This idea of support was eventually broadened by the late Middle Ages, when "comfortable" meant that someone was enjoying a state of satisfaction free from anxiety. So we have "comfort food," which has emotional value, even if dubious nutritional value. A "comfortable income" is one that's ample but not luxurious. Succeeding generations have since expanded on this idea of well-being. In his memoirs, the 19th-century Scottish novelist and playwright Sir Walter Scott wrote: "let it freeze without, we are comfortable within."
In this sense, fall clothes are comfortable in a way that summer attire is not. Springy linens and colorful madras may bring relief from the heat, perhaps even a bit of cheer, but they're not comforting in the same way as a cashmere scarf, woolen topcoat, or Shetland sweater. Since I expect to mostly stay at home this season, I'm looking forward to wearing shirts in flannel, chamois, and corduroy, which feel comforting in the physical and emotional sense. Some of my favorite flannels include , which are made from a robust 12oz cotton that's been triple brushed on the inside, so they feel kitten soft. Their price is dizzying, perhaps even outrageous, but I've yet to come across something so sturdy and satisfying to wear (just be sure to size up). Of course, there are plenty of more affordable sources for good flannels. This season, I like the ones from Iron Heart's Ultra-Heavy Flannels Knickerbocker, Portuguese Flannel, Indigofera, Corridor, RRL, Neighborhood, Todd Snyder, and J. Crew.
Before starting an American denim brand with his wife Carrie, Matt Eddmenson was an aspiring artist. He went to The Art Academy of Cincinnati, where he earned a BFA in painting in 1999. Upon returning to his hometown, he struck up a relationship with his now-wife Carrie, got involved in Carrie's family textile business, and eventually co-founded Imogene + Willie. But he's always had a love for art, so along with shaping Imogene + Willie's all-American look, he also creates the art that goes on the company's Zippo lighters and vintage-inspired t-shirts.
Eddmenson's graphic t-shirts don't look like his paintings, which are influenced by Cowboy Comics, Pop Art, and the work of Cy Twombly. Instead, their graphics remind me of the DIY t-shirts sold at the back of small-venue music shows (indeed, one just loudly proclaims "Support Live Music"). I bought the ones that say "Born to Lose," "Champion," and "House Arrest." They go well with the kinds of clothes you can find on Imogene + Willie's site: raw denim jeans, chambray shirts, thermals, work jackets, and fatigues. These t-shirts are entirely made in the United States from jersey cotton knitted at an American mill.
These t-shirts come in two weights. The midweight 7oz fabric has a slightly slubby texture, whereas the lighter 6oz fabric is stretchier and softer. Some t-shirts, such as the Triumph and Champion, have been put through a "mechanic" wash to make them look like they've been in a garage forever. Not only do the shirts look more rugged as a result, but they also hide stains. In the last few months, I've been pleased to find that my chow fun and coffee stains now suggest that I work on motorcycles, instead of type on my laptop all day, fueled only by heavy doses of sodium and caffeine. You can find Imogene + Willie's t-shirts on their site and Stag Provisions. I suggest sizing up on the midweight tees and up twice on the lightweight ones.
About three years ago, I started noticing that stylish women in my neighborhood were all wearing Blundstone boots. They paired them with oversized Shaker sweaters, French chore coats, olive fatigues, wide-legged pants, and slim jeans. Basically, many of the things I was wearing at the time. However, instead of Viberg service boots or rugged Red Wings, their squishy Blundstones looked more like gardening equipment than military attire (even if Blunnies, as they're affectionately known in Australia, have respectable workwear heritage). I liked how they looked, so I bought a pair.
I've only had mine for about a year, but they've become some of my favorite shoes. These rugged, weatherproof boots have a real-world, fashion-as-function appeal that has always been popular with consumers. They're easy to slip on and easier to slip off. Their cushy, slip-resistant TPU soles make them comfortable for long walks. They're a little more down-to-earth and causal than RM Williams' Craftsman boots (which I also love, but are better with dressier outfits). Best of all, they're affordable at just $185 per pair. I prefer the 500 and 550 models in all black, which go surprisingly well underneath blue jeans, black jeans, olive fatigues, and tan chinos. I think of them as fall's version of Birkenstocks, and can be mostly worn in the same ways. You can find them at J. Crew, Sid Mashburn, Stag Provisions, and the discount site Sierra Trading Post.
A couple of years ago, I commissioned a pair of bespoke side zips from London-based shoemaker Nicholas Templeman. The boots required a few fittings, as Nicholas had to transform my regular last into a boot last. But they arrived a couple of months ago and I'm over the moon about them. I'll write more about them in another post, but I'm excited to wear them this fall with a tapered pair of COF Studio jeans, a boxy Our Legacy tee, and a black Margiela five-zip jacket (still my favorite leather).
Every year around this time, menswear blogs are full of recommendations for grey flannel trousers, a staple in a tailored wardrobe. But this year, I've been mostly spending my time in my backyard, where I play with my neighbor's young tuxedo cat, Oreo. If I wore grey flannel trousers, the cat would likely say "meow meow meow," which is cat-speak for "why are you so dressed up?"
So I've been mostly relying on jeans and five-pocket cords. Jeans are comfortable once broken-in, and five-pocket cords occupy a halfway position between denim and tailoring. In the right color and cut, they can be paired with a tweed sport coat. At the same time, they sit naturally with chunky sweaters, French chore coats, denim truckers, CPO shirt jackets, and the occasional topcoat. They're relatively affordable, easy to clean, and transition easily between life at home and running errands. Tan is your most versatile color, although I find charcoal surprisingly useful in workwear outfits. Michael Hill, who serves as the Creative Director at , says he likes them in off-white. "White five-pocket cords can be a jumping-off point for a lot of things," he tells me. "They work in almost any situation where you'd wear blue jeans - they go with jackets in olive, navy, and stone. They work with desert boots, penny loafers, and classic sneakers. It's one of those things where, if a guy just wears a pair for a few days, I think you get over that mental hurdle of wearing white pants."
Along with his lessons on how we can become better people, Fred Rogers taught us something about clothing. Each of his "Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood" episodes started the same way. He'd come home from some unseen outside world, hang up his sport coat in a closet, and then reach for one of his signature cardigans. The message was subtle, but there: changing into simple, comfortable clothes can be a way to hit the refresh button. By trading stiffer jackets for softer knitwear, we shrug off the day's stress.
