Are you a fan of twin-center holidays? For some travelers, they're a golden opportunity to add a whole new destination in the spirit of "well, while I'm there..." Others see them as a distraction from a place where there's already more than enough to see . Why dilute the delights of Kerala by adding Sri Lanka? Does it make sense to leave Cape Town for a quick taste of Mauritius?
For me the problem is that tour operators tend to combine similar places - Los Angeles and then a quick bite in Las Vegas, Barbados with a salad from St. Lucia. Yet one of the underrated joys of air travel is the chance to hop between vastly different destinations. On a trip to Fiji, which has no direct flights from the UK, I decided to precede the delights of the South Pacific by spending some time in Vancouver, neither of which I knew much about. I wanted the thrill of discovering two new places with the added spice of swinging between contrasting landscapes and cultures.
When I arrived on Canada's west coast in July, I found a picturesque harbor full of summer fun. It helped that the sun shone brightly in this rainiest of places, and I was impressed that you can zip from the airport to downtown in just 30 minutes by simply showing your credit card as you board the city's SkyTrain steps. As we sped along, I realized that ticking off clichés is all part of the fun of a layover, and I felt absurdly satisfied when I saw huge logs floating on the Fraser River against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.
Staying central is essential when time is tight. At the Fairmont Waterfront high-rise hotel, I was greeted by a breathtaking view of a harbor filled with ferries, seaplanes, helicopters and cruise ships. A short walk took me to a free shuttle bus to Grouse Mountain, where a cable car takes passengers to an altitude of 2,800 feet in six minutes. In addition to panoramic views of Vancouver Harbour, another wish list item was grizzly bears in the form of Grinder and Coola, two orphans who have lived there since 2001 when the motherless cubs were found along the road.
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Vancouver loves outdoor fun, so I went on a three-hour group bike tour of Stanley Park, stopping to admire the elaborately carved totem poles, 60-meter-tall pine trees and a beaver dam. The next afternoon I took a 30-minute scenic flight in a five-seat seaplane, buzzing over the steep ridges and islands that frame this spectacular city.
In the evening I found a thriving restaurant scene that has been boosted by the publication of an annual Michelin Guide since 2022. This led me to a Michelin Star Published on Main in Mount Pleasant to discover the sublime delights of British Columbia produce , including shrimp, halibut and fine wines from the Okanagan Valley.
Since my departure to Nadi, the gateway to Fiji, wasn't until 10:15 PM, there was still time to top things off with a sunset kayaking tour. Our small group paddled out of English Bay and consisted of a few wedding anniversary celebrants who somehow managed to down a bottle of bubbly amid the choppy waves. It was a breezy two-mile loop that headed west to open water and then returned for sensational views of the Vancouver skyline with its sunlit skyscrapers arrayed like a mighty army in shining battle armor.
Since my eleven-hour flight to the South Pacific crossed the International Date Line, discombobulation was a given. That didn't matter because with some airlines you feel like you've arrived in the country before you even take off. On Fiji Airways, passengers are immediately immersed in the island atmosphere with guitar music, cushions with traditional motifs and smiling crew members with a flower behind their ear. Community is a big part of Fijian culture and my neighbors were spontaneously chatty - the icebreaker was of course rugby. The islanders are obsessed with the sport and many resorts have their own staff teams.
With a week to play with, I started exploring Viti Levu, the largest island and the best for adrenaline activities. My thrills included ziplining and hiking through colossal sand dunes, but the highlight was the Sigatoka River Safari, where you zip upriver in a roaring jet boat to learn about village life in the lush interior. When I found myself lunching on taro leaves with coconut cream and then dancing under the mango trees with a wreath of flowers around my neck, Canada truly felt half a world away.
Life is more relaxed on smaller Vanua Levu, a 45-minute flight east, where there is little traffic and a slower pace that matches my vision of the South Seas idyll. Fantastic snorkeling and diving, along with the chance to buy locally farmed black pearls, are key reasons to head to Savusavu on the south coast.
Here, the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort is a model of sustainability with a 'School Under the Sea' where children learn about sharks and plant mangrove seedlings. Activities include fishing, sailing and picnicking with castaways, but my choice was a visit to the serene Salt Lake, reached by kayaking on a mangrove-lined tidal river.
With the help of a young guide, Ofa, we paddled to one of nature's hideaways, surrounded by dense green forest with a small central island. It's an enchanting place to float around, admire the butterflies and listen to birdsong, but my zen moment was short-lived. On the way back we misjudged the strength of the incoming tide and were both quickly turned around and left clinging to a tree trunk.
Ofa was embarrassed, but I just laughed - and told her I was glad this had happened in the 28 degree heat of Fiji instead of the cold water of Vancouver.
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Nigel Tisdall traveled with Turquoise Holidays (01494 678400; turquoiseholidays.co.uk), which offers a 12-night trip from £4,295 pp, including British Airways flights from London to Vancouver, Fiji Airways flights to Nadi and stays at the Fairmont Waterfront Vancouver, room only, the Outrigger Beach Resort Fiji on Viti Levu, B&B, and the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort on Vanua Levu, all-inclusive. For more information see Destinationvancouver.com and fiji.travel.Four other adventurous twin-center vacations
Istanbul and Bali
Explore the treasures of this legendary Turkish city where Europe meets Asia, then relax on an enchanting Indonesian island with a Hindu heritage. Original Travel (020 3582 4990; originaltravel.co.uk) has 20 nights from £7,875 pp including Turkish Airlines flights from London Gatwick, four nights at Soho House Istanbul and a multi-centre stay in Bali with boutique accommodation and tours.
Iceland and Chicago
With its enormous skyscrapers and exceptional museums, the powerful city of Chicago is a nice contrast to the homely, lava-strewn Iceland. Icelandair has free stopovers of up to seven days on its flights via Reykjavik with departures from London, Manchester and Glasgow. Arrange transfers, activities and accommodation independently (icelandair.com, visiticeland.com, Choosechicago.com).
Dubai and Zimbabwe
Enjoy a rejuvenating holiday in the sunny UAE, then admire the Victoria Falls and the wildlife of Hwange National Park. Travel Counselors (01798 850029; travelcounsellors.com) has 13 nights from £9,475 pp including Emirates flights from London Gatwick, three nights in Dubai and a 10-night tour of Zimbabwe with safari activities.
Helsinki and South Korea
Discover the elegant architecture of the tranquil Finnish capital and then delve into Seoul, a hi-tech metropolis with 9.6 million inhabitants. Trailfinders (020 7368 1317; trailfinders.com) has 12 nights from £3,799p including Finnair flights from London Heathrow, four nights in Helsinki and a nine-day group tour of South Korea's highlights.
