Fashion Magazine

The Secret to the Perfect Countryside Escape in the Cotswolds

By Elliefrost @adikt_blog

With its honeystone villages and country houses, rolling countryside of sheep-nibbled hills and pretty churches, the Cotswolds is heartbreakingly beautiful. Who wouldn't want to go for a short break - or a long break? The approximately 800 square kilometers that make up the region are criss-crossed with footpaths and divided by dry stone walls, some 6,000 kilometers in size, adding an architectural embellishment to the natural art here. There's a wealth to discover, from Roman remains in Chedworth to contemporary crafts in Cirencester - and an abundance of grand country houses to visit too.

But you can't possibly take in the entire region in a few days. So at home in an attractive part. To the north lie the delights of exquisite Chipping Campden and the glorious gardens of Hidcote and Kiftsgate. To the east lies historic Burford, lined with beautiful old coaching inns. To the west lies Laurie Lee's Slad Valley and beautiful, creative little Painswick. Further south-east is Tetbury, royally connected and strangely off the radar of major tourism for its charms. And wherever you go, you'll find immensely pleasant, if often expensive, places to stay, from boutique and country house hotels to characterful pubs and elegant B&Bs.

For more inspiration for the perfect Cotswolds holiday, see our guide to the best hotels, restaurants, pubs, afternoon teas, shops and things to do in the region.

In this guide

How to spend your weekend

Perfect rural England is hidden in the rolling hills of the Cotswolds. Of course there are lively festivals and cities that radiate verve, but most visitors come for the peace and quiet and the exceptionally beautiful views. Especially in the north of the region. It offers some of the most acclaimed accommodations and contains many of the must-see sights (several are within striking distance of each other), making it a fantastic weekend retreat.

Base yourself in the serene countryside along rural back roads - our two top suggestions are tucked away yet fairly quickly accessible and also provide an appealing feeling of being in another dimension of time. For luxurious, dreamy views and antiques, head to the pleasantly expansive Lords of Manor at Upper Slaughter, four miles south-west of Stow-on-the-Wold; it's a classic country house hotel with impeccable service, excellent food and a fantastic garden. Or choose to stay for less costs - and lots of atmosphere - in an ancient inn on an idyllic village square; the Kings Head in Bledington, just over four miles south-east of Stow-on-the-Wold, has numerous pub prizes and offers excellent brasserie food and twelve stylish rooms (small in the historic part of the property, more generous in a newer wing).

The secret to the perfect countryside escape in the Cotswolds

Both locations are well placed to take in some of Britain's most magnificent sights: Blenheim Palace - complete with stunning grounds designed by Capability Brown. Make sure you explore further north too: head to lovely Chipping Campden, beautiful Broadway and two of the region's most beautiful gardens at Hidcote Manor and Kiftsgate Court - they're just a mile apart, the former being more formal, the latter is family run and something of a hidden gem. Notable alternatives include the flamboyant Sezincote House and Gardens, an exotic combination of Cotswold country house and Indian Moghul palace, Jacobean Chastleton House and Batsford Arboretum, developed by Algernon Bertram Freeman-Mitford, grandfather of the famous Mitford sisters.

The perfect week's holiday in the Cotswolds

Extend your journey and head south; Adding a few more days to your break will give you time to enjoy two of the region's most famous picturesque villages: Burford, with a glorious high street lined with old coaching inns, and Bibury with an enchantingly picturesque row of weavers' cottages (William Morris was so delighted with them when he visited in the late 19th century that he declared Bibury the most beautiful village in England). However, you should plan your visit so as to avoid the crowds that invariably descend on both places. So stay nearby and explore outside office hours; the crowd will have left by 5 p.m. You'll then have much of the day to go walking in the area - along the Windrush and Coln valleys - and explore some of the many sights of nearby Cirencester, from astonishingly beautiful Roman mosaics at the Corinium Museum to contemporary crafts made in New Brewery. Art.

For tucked-away charm and reasonable prices, head to the New Inn in Coln St Aldwyns, ten miles south-west of Burford and about three miles south-east of Bibury. This rustic-stylish pub dates back to the 16th century and has a traditional bar, a restaurant serving gourmet burgers and small plates and 14 beautiful bedrooms. Or book a gem of an old coaching inn, The Lamb on Sheep Street in Burford. With its old stone fireplaces, snoozy armchairs and beautiful hidden garden, it exudes a comfortable aura.

Complete your week-long stay in the Cotswolds with a stay further south, near Tetbury. Wander around this pretty market town, browsing antique shops and admiring picture-perfect Chipping Steps Lane and Tetbury's beautiful 17th-century pillared market house. Just outside the city, visit Highgrove Gardens, laid out by King Charles (advance booking is essential) and explore the Westonbirt Arboretum, home to around 15,000 trees, including rare acers. Perhaps best of all, take in the land of Laurie Lee; the beautiful Slad Valley is celebrated in the author's best-known book, 'Cider with Rosie', and there is a five-mile walking trail here, dotted with posts containing some of his poetry.

Accommodation options include the beautifully designed Calcot & Spa, approximately four miles west of Tetbury. Set on 220 hectares of grounds, this hotel oasis offers excellent facilities for families and serene space for guests traveling for adults. Or for a less expensive but still attractive option, book The Close townhouse hotel in Tetbury, with 20 quiet bedrooms, good brasserie food and a beautiful walled garden.

Insider tips

Village guard

For quintessential Cotswold beauty, head to Minchinhampton. It's a chocolate box of a village, but without the crowds that descend on equally beautiful Bibury and Bourton-on-the-Water.

Lesser known sights

Wander around Broadway Tower, a folly on the slope above picturesque Broadway, and you'll get the best view in the Cotswolds. Then visit the monument for its eccentricity. Designed by Capability Brown and completed in 1798, the tower became a holiday home for William Morris.

Market

Stroud Farmers' Market (Cornhill Market Place) is a large event held every Saturday from 9am to 2pm. Here you'll find great bread from The Artisan Baker, free-range salami from The Cotswold Curer, local beer from Corinium Ales and much, much more.

Did you know?

Many of the Mitford sisters are buried at St Mary's Church in Swinbrook, which could be reason enough to visit. Yet there are other fascinating sights in this old church, especially the astonishing tombs of the landowning Fettiplace family, whose effigies are stacked one above the other as if on shelves. Stop down the road for a drink at Swinbrook's Swan Inn and admire the Mitford memorabilia on display.

Hotel

The Wild Rabbit is an oasis of eco-elegance, a few fields away from sister venture Daylesford, Carole Bamford's organic farm shop, deli, spa (and more). She transformed this 18th century inn and it has been meticulously designed in tranquil colours, stone and wood. It's a beautiful chic pub, with food to match.

When to go

Every season has an intrinsic appeal. Winters without crowds are ideal for invigorating walks, fireside pub sessions and lower hotel prices. Come in spring to see lambs and wild daffodils. Visit in summer (inevitably along with many others) for magical light, especially during the long evenings. Or take an autumn excursion for a calmer atmosphere and beautiful leaf colour, especially at the two large arboreta, Westonbirt and Batsford.

Where to stay

The best for families

Slaughters Country Inn has generous outdoor space and an impressive choice of family-friendly rooms; Ellenborough Park offers 17 family rooms and suites and a fantastic imaginative range of facilities; With its spacious grounds, interconnecting rooms and suites with sofa beds, Minster Mill is a paradise for those with children.

Find more of the best family-friendly hotels in the Cotswolds in our guide.

Best for romantics

Thyme is an epicurean retreat in a world of its own - complete with beautiful rooms and a serene spa; at the Lyon Arms in Broadway, book a bedroom in the fabulously historic main house; Buckland Manor offers total tranquility, along with old stone fireplaces, mullioned windows and sublime surroundings.

Find more of the best romantic hotels in the Cotswolds in our guide.

The best for gourmets

The seven-course tasting menu in Whatley Manor's intimate Dining Room is a Michelin-starred delight; at Dormy House hotel, opt for informal refinement at The Back Garden restaurant or head to the chef's table at gourmet MO; The Painswick has the indulgence of a restaurant that offers deft flavor combinations - think spicy rhubarb with lightly salted mackerel.

What to take home

Godsell's artisan cheese, made by a farming family in the village of Leonard Stanley - the Holy Smoked single Gloucester is particularly delicious.

Soaps from College Green (available at Stroud Farmers' Market) - aromatic and handmade in the Stroud Valley with natural ingredients, from rosemary and mint to lemongrass, ginger and oats.

Know before you go

Essential information

Don't ask about Jeremy Clarkson, Rebekah Brooks, Kate Moss, Alex James, Jilly Cooper and others from a long list of the great, the good and the infamous who call the Cotswolds their home (or second home). The locals are largely not enamored with celeb culture.

Enjoy the prosperity of the Cotswolds - the well-kept towns and villages, the carefully preserved countryside. But be aware that the cost of living is extremely high: it is a challenge to find comfortable hotel accommodation for less than £90 per night for a double room.

About our expert

Harriet O'Brien's work has taken her from Amsterdam to Amritsar, from Belgium to Burma and of course to countless destinations in Great Britain. She lives in the Cotswolds, which she says is 'in my top five most beautiful places in the world'.

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