"How many have never been to a wassail before?" asked the man with the ivy crown. Half of those sitting around the fire raised their hands. "Well, this is a folk ritual," our master of ceremonies joked. "We need some virgins." On a cold January afternoon we were taken from our homes to stand in an orchard singing to the fruit trees.
Long practiced at the heart of British cider, wassailing is no longer a mainstream activity, but interest in the age-old tradition is growing. In an orchard above Bath's Avon Valley, I attended my first ceremony on Saturday. I've been curious about it for years and it seems I wasn't the only one. As we move into 2024, wassail events will see people gathering not only in Somerset and Kent, but also in Brixton and Birmingham.
It is a Twelfth Night tradition dating back to the Middle Ages and is derived from the Old English 'was hál', meaning 'good health'. Traditionally there were two types of wassail. One involved roasting an orchard, hoping for a good harvest, while the other involved going to a house to toast its residents, in exchange for punch or beer. The orchard wassail has prevailed in some corners and now seems to be making a full resurgence.
Lorna Knapman, who runs Dick Willows cider farm with Richard Hudson, follows the wheel of the year, an ancient calendar, and gets a kick out of serving naturally fermented produce to the neighbors that connect them to the land. On her hillside farm we drank mulled wine while storyteller and author Martin Maudsley revolved around a campfire and regaled us with tales of sailing legends. Martin likes a wassail because it brings communities together. "The pub is great for friends, and Christmas is great for family," he said, "but the wassail is about seeing your neighbors and preparing for the year ahead."
Those who came to Wassail loved the idea of celebrating community and humanity's connection with nature; Values that some feared were being lost in modern Western society, where technology and globalization can leave people isolated and distrustful.
The story continues
There's no better way to break the ice with strangers than by passing around the wassail cup - a sloshing big bowl of cider. Those so inclined took a sip, then we gathered to sing at the base of the farm's oldest apple tree. Decorated with ribbons, the tree's roots were doused with cider and slices of cider-soaked toast were hung from the branches ("the birds will love that in the morning"). Calls of "wass-ail" were answered with a thunderous "drinking hail."
"Wassailing is a winter festival," Martin explains. "It is a time to give back to the land and stand by the trees when they are cold, baked and dormant." He thinks people can learn from an orchard in the winter. "Apple trees need frost for their leaves to form properly," he said. 'It's called vernalization. For humans, if we rush through Christmas and haven't thought about spring, we haven't vernalized it yet. It's actually very radical and rebellious to get people outside and singing in front of a tree. We have so much going on in our lives - this gives us pause."
Dyrham Park, in South Gloucestershire, is one of a handful of National Trust properties planning wassails in January to help visitors connect with nature and the past. The house has a history of wash sailing and has a 17th century wash sail bowl in its collection. On Saturday, as musicians played, children decorated wassail poles and joined a noisy procession of up to 200 wassailers through the pear orchard to an avenue of espalier apple trees, creating a ruckus to scare away ghosts.
The National Trust's master of ceremonies was chief executive Tom Boden, who brought his violin. "It was all a bit crazy," he said, "and an antidote to the gray January. Children loved seeing traditional instruments that they wouldn't normally see, such as concertinas and melodeons." He felt it was important to be involved in the growth process and said the return of wax sailing had helped save some old orchards. A range of smaller community orchards have also sprung up in Britain over the past decade.
Can wassailing also help restore ties in society? As revelers left Dick Willows, revitalized by the fresh air and new friends made, Lorna said many commented on what a warm community they live in. "It was great to see people of different ages coming together," she said. "Hopefully we will see a very bountiful harvest this year and everyone will know they played a part in that."
The best sailing events with remaining tickets in January
Gower Heritage Center Wassail, Gower
January 13 - 14Bless the Parkmill Orchard with song, live music, Morris dancing, a parade and a cider-filled feast over two days.
gowerheritagecentre.co.uk
Wassail by Candlelight, Lewes Saturday Folk Club, Lewes
Bring a sprig from your own apple tree and share in the blessings during a ceremony at the Elephant & Castle. Enjoy a piece of Twelfth Cake and a spiced old beer.
lewessaturdayfolkclub.org
Wassail walk in Wimpole, Cambridgeshire
January 20 - February 25Celebrate the produce of the walled garden, discover the traditions of wassailing and learn about sustainable food and farming on a wassail trail. Try out some traditional rhymes, create a ruckus with noisemakers and welcome the birds and pollinators before spring.
nationaltrust.org.uk
Tea time was sailing in Lyveden, Northamptonshire
January 20, 4:30 PM - 7:00 PMVisit Lyveden after dark for an evening of traditional merriment, with crafts to try and a mummer's game to watch. Afterwards, a traditional wassail will take place in the orchard. Reserve tickets in advance.
nationaltrust.org.uk
Brixton Orchard Wassail, Brixton
Expect song and dance performed for the community by the Brixton Tatterjacks Morris group and friends. Hot mulled wine drinks will be available.
Urban growth.london
Tudor Wassail, Michelham Priory House & Gardens, Sussex
Drumming and dancing mark Twelfth Night, followed by a torchlight procession. The family-friendly event will be followed by an adults-only event, with alcohol available. Bring a musical instrument or pots and pans and decorate yourself with leaves and feathers. Booking in advance is essential.
sussexpast.co.uk
Winterwassail, Bodenham Arboretum, Kidderminster, Worcestershire
Morris dancers will perform traditional music from noon. Dress up in ivy leaves and feathers and sing to the apple trees.
bodenhamarboretum.co.uk
