Inside the walls? Manila's own 'Intramuros' means just that in Spanish because I needed to walk through one of the many gates to access that former Spanish Colonial settlement. I had just walked from Rizal Park, blindly trusting my iPhone maps thankfully brought me to my intended location. I wanted to see everything, it felt like a dream had come true! Yes, Mary looked fine!
During the beginning of the first COVID-19 Lockdown in 2020, I found solace making travel plans for the not so distant future. Manila Cathedral came under my 'Philippines' section with the walled area of 'Intramuros' closely observed. I couldn't put it into words when I saw that 'place of worship' on that beautiful Sunday morning, now that was a heavenly encounter for sure! I knew that this basilica had some muscle because it had been given 'premier' status in 1581 under the newly founded 'Archdiocese of Manila' not long after the 'Archdiocese of Mexico' had been read their rights. I gazed outside that formidable cathedral with a sense of completion felt in my heart, I had made another one of my 'Travel Plans' a living reality! OK, I walked into that quiet yet very busy place of worship, I was about to learn that Catholic churches of any kind are like their own attraction in the Philippines! Reading the room, it was fine for me to take photos but obviously the christening in a more private area deserved respect. Mary looked fab!
The main altar looked like no other church I had ever witnessed in my life, I would learn that in the Philippines churches serve true opulence! Of course a statue of Mary herself came into view as I thought about lighting a candle, that holy woman looked like 'Mamwa Pao' with her whole essence serving attitude! I walked around that whole cathedral, impressed with what I saw with the many stations of the cross, I headed to my next location within Manila's Intramuros. I was loving that Sunday morning moment, I saw Jeepney's passing me by and even saw the term 'Ayuntamiento'. That 'City Hall' mention told me that a certain Spanish history would become a familiar fixture. I took a moment to check out the 'Baroque' style 'Ayuntamiento de Manila' for myself, you already know that the name reminded me of Spain! So, Jeepney's I did see on both 'Soriano Ave' and 'Cabildo Street'. 'Plaza de Roma' had me running back so I could further take in the scenery. I will be leaving Jeepney's out of this post because there's some shade going on!
Manila knew that I wasn't one of those travelers who was visiting Intramuros for clout, I knew about certain neigbourhoods in the city and I kept things that way. As I walked down 'Cabildo Street', I saw the Spanish architecture disappear rapidly with a vibrant 'Baryo' vibe being served! I knew of 'Tondo' and areas that aren't meant for those who don't know the city let alone the country, but within Intramuros I felt comfortable enough to take photos of such busy sights. The store fronts served something really wholesome, the wooden houses looked as if they had been built on top of each other with a very slap-dash fashion applied. I had been taken aback because I wasn't expecting such a shift in style, I kept an open mind and appreciated that ordinary part of that former walled area. A whole manner of snacks and drinks were being sold from those storefronts, it was easy to see that community life was thriving within that corner of Intramuros. Keeping it moving, I felt content with that street scene, I didn't feel that I needed to be cautious.
Delving into the real history had me feeling sour, during Spanish Colonial rule it was law that 'Filipino' people were forbidden from living in Intramuros. This walled city had been fashioned by the Spanish to allow that 'European' sense of life to remain just that, ever the contradiction. Intramuros became a hub of education, religion and Overseas Spanish high society. Fashioned with stone walls to keep unwanted invaders and locals out, thousands of Spanish families called Intramuros their home during the grip of Spain's own Empire. Also known for universities, monuments and statues, a current proposal is being discussed to ensure the whole of the 'Walled City' has UNESCO status. I really felt that this walled area exuded 'a city within a city' vibe, acting like one history lesson that I paid much attention towards. New Spain? Acapulco? Yes, several galleons had set sail from now 'Mexico' with a 'whole new world' waiting for them to claim as a new pillar of the Spanish Empire. I was about to learn a whole lot more! No bueno!
Feeling like visiting another church, I already had my sights set on 'San Agustin Church' because it stood as one of the religious heavyweights within Manila's Intramuros. Claimed to be the oldest standing church in the Philippines, 'San Agustin Church' had already impressed me with its dark stone crafted structure from the outside. At first the doors to the church were closed but there's always time for an ice cream, trying a second time allowed me to see one of the most intricately designed interiors in my life! The ceiling was a work of art, carvings showed me elements of gold, white and more gold! The marble pillars at the altar impressed me much, it was a treat for the eyes even if the soul isn't religious! I saw some excitable 'Titas' posing for photos, posing for the divine himself, I later had this scene confirmed that churches are landmarks in the Philippines. By that time, I was all 'Churched Out' and that felt fine with me because I would be seeing a lot more churches! I had one more museum looking place to see!
'Casa Manila' served 'Living Museum Realness' with oodles of Spanish charm! Based upon an 1850 walled manor, this luxurious residence took me right back to the beginning of Manila's time as a Spanish colony. It was a trifle confusing for me to find the entrance but after I had bought my ticket I was asked to wait for another five minutes because a restricted number of visitors were allowed in the house. I was blown away by the ruby red runners that covered the halls, stairs and landings. Crafted upon an original abode, I took note of every single piece of furniture because it really reminded me of a royal stately home back in the 'Old Continent' of Europe! The kitchen impressed me, even the condiments were named in Spanish! After my tour of 'Casa Manila' had concluded, I was able to see the romantically designed courtyard in that afternoon setting with the Philippine sun beating down! I loved Casa Manila because it educated me! Within the former 'Spaniard Elite' enclave, this would be 'how the other half lived!' Imelda!
Now, I did get a little bit lost trying to find 'Baluarte de San Diego', it was fitting that the order of this blog is somewhat wrong. Before visiting 'Casa Manila', I was able to find said 'Fort' with the help of maps and a helpful security guard, those non-touristic streets within Intramuros gave me life! Walking into a lush garden allowed me to see one of my intended tourist finds for the day, I really didn't impress those budding guides! Putting the history to bed because it was simple to see that this fortification had been used to keep people out of Intramuros. This bulletproof bastion reminded me of Old San Juan's own 'El Morro', maybe the Spanish connection influenced that suspected connection? Maybe, so? I didn't spend much time at this point of interest, for me to stare into the center of the fort was remarkable enough. I got what I needed from that quick visit, I wanted a drink to keep the heat from zapping my energy! Leaving 'Baluarte de San Diego' behind me wasn't a bad thing, I loved what I saw there! A wrong turn?
Before I exited Intramuros through one of the main gates, I was able to take in someone else's 'Sunday Service' moment. Set opposite a Starbucks, I bought a bottle of coke from a neighbourhood shop that was marking up their prices differently each time I bought another bottle. I wasn't mad because the price was still majorly cheap, it was all about the experience. Located next to that shop, I saw a family run Cantina that was serving some churchgoing patrons, they looked as if they had just finished their church service and had cracked open a bottle of rum before some Videoke! There were kids playing football on that pedestrianised streets, they were having the best Sunday afternoon by the looks of things! Why would you want to be inside an air conditioned Starbucks when outside the culture was overflowing! I had such a wonderful day within Manila'a captivating Intramuros, I wouldn't have changed a single thing! This blog post has been a long time coming, I feel relieved that it's come to be at long last! Done!
Inside Intramuros!
Desperately Seeking Adventure
