For
the not so well informed, the Burmese capital is no longer ‘Yangon’ but –‘Naypidaw’ [seat of the King]
from Nov. 2005. It is administered as the Naypyidaw Union
Territory, as per the 2008 Constitution.
The military regime purposely-built the city from scratch in the middle
of rice paddies and sugar-cane fields. Government workers were reportedly given
just 48 hours to make the 200-mile move.
Today the built-from-scratch city stands as a beacon of nationalistic excess
in the largely impoverished country, with sprawling government buildings,
eight-lane highways, golf-courses, Vegas-inspired hotels, elaborate gardens,
malls, movie theaters, and more. It has 24-hour power, a rarity in the region, but
the nearly 3,000 square mile capital has very few traces of human life. Devoid
of the rich colonial history and bustling commercial activity of the former
capital, Naypyidaw is like a city without a soul—an empty, ostentatiously
adorned shell, which houses only 2 percent of the country.
The military junta
claimed the move was a logical one, necessary to escape the crowding of Yangon
and to be closer to the center of the country. Citizens, however, have their
own theories. Many believe the move was an effort to escape the people
themselves in order to lessen the threat of nationwide demonstrations, which
are often held in urban centres. Another
local legend has it that the migration was pure paranoia on the part of Than
Shwe, the then head of the military government who was known to be deeply
superstitious. An astrologer reportedly told Shwe that an attack by the
Americans was imminent, and urged that he escape Yangon as quickly as possible.
He took her word. Clearly, the rest of the country did not.
The road to the
presentday capital from Yangon runs more than 300km north through fields and
softly rolling hills. On a Sunday, it is almost entirely empty, silent apart
from the occasional car or lorry carrying dozens of packed-in passengers, like
a makeshift minibus. Along the side of the road, signs remind drivers to stay
alert and abide by speed limits. "Life is a Journey. Complete it,"
urges one. Although the highway is
virtually empty, and travellers say it is the best road in the country, it has
been plagued by reports of fatal accidents. Some have dubbed it "Death
Highway", and critics say the road to the new capital was rushed, with
little funding invested in safety measures.
In Yangon, foreign
aid workers laugh when asked whether they would be willing to relocate to Naypyidaw. Instead, they make the five-hour trip by car.
Others take a plane. With flights costing as much as US$350 per round trip,
it's hard not to wonder whether the commute is a good use of development money.
Despite the fact that the government set aside almost 5 acres of land each for
foreign embassies and headquarters of UN missions, only the Bangladeshi embassy
has moved to Naypyidaw so far.
In
the early part of the last century occurred the transfer of capital of British
India from Calcutta to Delhi in 1911. Charles Hardinge, served as Viceroy of
India from 1910 to 1916. During his tenure occurred the visit of King George V;
the Delhi Durbar of 1911, and the shift
of capital from Calcutta to New
Delhi. The shifting of the capital put
Delhi back on India’s political map and changed the course of its history.
British India’s imperial capital today remains the political nerve center of
the country.
With regards – S.
Sampathkumar
15th May
2015.
