Grenoble is a destination that exceeds expectations. It has a terrible reputation. When I moved to France this was the first place I stayed. As I pondered whether to live there or in Lyon, an hour away, the people's reactions said it all.
"Why would you live in Grenoble?" they asked. "The pollution is terrible, there are gangs, it is the stronghold of the French mafia."
However, the naysayers might be surprised to learn that Grenoble has in fact been named the best city in the world for quality of life by Oxford Economics' Global Cities Index. It scored full marks: 100/100, beating the other 999 cities on the list to first place.
The 'quality of life' category took into account life expectancy, income per person, income equality, housing expenditure, recreational and cultural facilities, and... internet speed.
I'm not surprised that Grenoble came out on top. If anything, its outdated reputation and perceived high levels of pollution (greatly reduced since the election of a green mayor) have kept the world's most liveable city hidden from the masses.
Affordable and affordable alternative
Money can't buy happiness, but affordable rent certainly helps. In Grenoble, the average rental cost per square meter is €13 (£11), which equates to around €640 (£540) per month for the average unfurnished apartment in the city. Compare that to Paris (€1,599/£1,345), or even neighboring Lyon, my home, (€843/£710) and you get a lot more bang for your buck.
The green spaces in and around the city were undoubtedly a big factor in the 'recreation' category that helped the city take the top spot. Grenoble is surrounded by three French regional parks: Vercors, Chartreuse and Belledonne. The first two have ski areas and the nearest slopes to the center of Grenoble are just a 20-minute drive away. Midweek lift passes are ridiculously cheap compared to the rest of the Alps (from just €15/£13). It's not unheard of for locals in Grenoble to book a day off when a bluebird day is forecast and hit the slopes for a pittance, without crowds. For many, it is part of the answer to a better quality of life.
In the summer, these same parks lend themselves to incredible hiking and biking trails. The Cirque de Saint-Même Waterfalls in Chartreuse Regional Park are a personal favorite and a route I have returned to many times. There is an easy 30-minute walk from the car park for families, or you can take a more challenging walk from Saint-Pierre-d'Entremont, which takes four hours.
The views in the city itself are also spectacular, the best being from the Bastille Fortress, reached by an hour's walk uphill from the city, or via a cable car (included in the handy G-Pass city map). At street level, the Musée de Grenoble has an excellent 20th century art collection, including numerous works by Matisse, Picasso and Warhol. Grenoble is at its most lively when it is dark. The student population is 65,000, accounting for 40 percent of the city.
Maintaining its appeal
Coming from someone who shunned Grenoble in favor of Lyon, this may all sound a bit hollow. Marion Grand, program manager at Grenoble IAE (one of the city's universities), studied in the city and returned after a short stay in Paris to make her home here. She believes that much of Grenoble's liveability is due to the fact that it was the first French city to elect a green mayor in 2014.
"Many more cycle paths were built and the tram system developed," says Grand. "My commute to campus is all by bicycle, on green, beautifully maintained cycle paths. It's beautiful! When I go into the city it's the same, there are cycle paths everywhere."
For Grand, it's a combination of nature on your doorstep and the lack of pretentiousness that makes Grenoble a great place to live.
"You can explore Quechua from head to toe [Decathlon's own brand] and no one blinks," she said. "Even though I'm not particularly sporty, it's hard to argue with the variety on offer: skiing, climbing, hiking or just beautiful lake views."
For an after-work drink, dressed in lycra and clip-on shoes, a snowsuit or even a police uniform, Grand knows the best place.
"The 1900 on Place Notre Dame is an institution. The owner, Fabio, has been there for at least 30 years," she said. "You get such a mix of customers. I recently saw a professional hockey player, an actor and a police officer all together drinking their signature cocktail, Le P'tit Vélo." Another local secret to the perfect life.
Our insider guide to Grenoble
Top restaurant
On a nice day, there's no better spot than Canopy (a short distance south of the city center), whose roof offers a 360-degree panorama of the surrounding mountains. A three-course lunch menu costs just €22. In the city, pocket-sized bistrot Et Si uses fresh seasonal produce and always has delicious vegetarian dishes.
Top activity
In Grenoble it must be an active activity. Canoe Grenoble offers guided evening kayaking trips on the River Isère in the heart of the city, admiring the buildings illuminated at dusk and the gloomy silhouette of the surrounding mountains.
Where to stay
For adrenaline junkies, there is nothing better than spending a night in a tent hanging from a rock face: the brand new camping experience proposed by the École de Porte. The views pale in comparison, but if you'd rather not spend the night dangling over the void, my favorite hotel in Grenoble is Art Deco 1924. It's just minutes from the train station and a doubles starts from €87 (£73) per night, with breakfast.
How to get there
Seasonal flights (December to April) serve Grenoble Isère Airport from Bristol, Gatwick and Luton. There are direct train services from Paris Gare de Lyon all year round, taking three hours. Fares from London St Pancras to Grenoble, via Paris, booked via Trainline, start from £61 one way.
