At the central area of Port Moresby called Waigaini; by the busy intersections that serve prominent establishments such as Holiday Inn and Lamana Hotel; by the sidewalks that gets occupied by locals and visitors on most days; stood this wall that showcases a significant part of the PNG culture — the Bilum Wall.
The “bilum” is the colorful handwoven or knitted shoulder bag, a popular souvenir for most people visiting Papua New Guinea.
Traditionally woven from native vines and fibers from plants or trees, thus also traditionally prepared in natural hues; the bilum has, over the years, evolved in color and material. The more recent and very colorful ones are made of commercially produced yarn, in these ones, red – the dominant color in PNG flag – also dominates the colors of the bags.
Various souvenir items, not only bilums, are actually being displayed by local artisans and entrepreneurs along the wall.
Another popular souvenir from PNG, the “Buka Basket” is crafted from indigenous materials and dyed brown with natural saps.
Some of the vendors do their knitting while keeping watch over their souvenir items
Bead necklaces, bracelets and other trinkets, many of them crafted on-site, are also available.
Paintings and wood carvings are also on display. Some parts of the wall are dedicated to local paintings and indigenous art. There are also other areas in Port Moresby where whole walls display indigenous art for sale.
Of course, traditional masks, spears, bows and arrows, and a whole lot of other PNG souvenirs can also be found along the wall.
But, due to their often bright colors, the bilums are the most attractive and thus the wall was named after it.
And, because the wall is along a street where roadside parking is allowed; a souvenir hunter can just park his car or taxi next to the wall, pick and order one from the vendor even without leaving the car, and then go once a transaction is completed.
But that’s not too much fun. The joy of souvenir-hunting has to be enriched by a personal interaction with the sellers — learning more about the item and the role it plays in local culture — and of course, bargaining for a lower price. And the friendly vendors are just happy to haggle.