If ever a decade benefited from the rosy glow of hindsight, it's the 1980s. Reviled at the time for 'abominations' such as puffball skirts, shoulder pads, double denim and neon, some of its worst excesses are regarded with somewhat more affection given the stranglehold that grey-toned good taste has had on the catwalks in recent times.
While we already had pieces from the 80s in the form of One Daj, Griselda And JeanneNo TV show this year captures the exuberance of the decade as exuberantly as Rivals. Fans of Jilly Cooper's 1988 bonkbuster will brace themselves for the sex overload, but less so for the orgy of fantastic looks.
"The 80s were a great period of fashion innovation, starting in nightclubs and spreading to the high street," says the show's veteran costume designer Ray Holman. "The young designers who influenced fashion were true pioneers."
Holman diligently recreated the period by purchasing clothes from costume rental companies, vintage websites, and specialty stores that still stocked '80s fabrics, with the wardrobe department creating any looks they couldn't find. "Each female character had something beautiful made for them, while the male characters all had custom-made suits made from vintage fabrics.
Holman's favorite look? "One of them is the Bugsy Malone Gangster-style striped double-breasted suit worn by Lord Baddingham (David Tennant). We styled it with every accessory: suspenders, pinky ring, watch, tie bar and sleeve cuffs. Another is the emerald green strapless dress that Maud O'Hara (Victoria Smurfitt) wears when she arrives at her party on a camel. All the actors embraced the period and style."
As for what viewers should embrace, read on for suggestions on which '80s looks could be relevant in your wardrobe this season.
High-waisted jeans
It may not be everyone's favorite style, and whether or not it is depends as much on the shape of your stomach as it does on your tolerance for discomfort. Fans swear that they act like a corset and give a flat, sleek silhouette, and whether you agree or not, this style isn't going anywhere this fall. For an easy way to wear them, wear a pair of mid-wash Wranglers like Taggy (Bella Maclean), paired with a simple white T-shirt.
Party dresses
Whatever your opinion on '80s fashion, you can't deny that the partywear was exceptional. If you're looking for Christmas party inspiration, look no further Rivals: it's a riot of ra-ras, puffballs, bustiers, ruffles, body stockings and bows, in sumptuous velvet, mesh, taffeta and shantung silk.
Dots
Forget ditzy florals: the most predominant print of the 1980s was the polkadot, as seen on everyone from Strawberry Switchblade (Google them, Gen Z) to Julia Roberts in Beautiful woman. Whether it was party wear or a bow-tie blouse, polka dots were treated as neutrals, especially in their most popular incarnation of black and white. Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent and Tove are favoring black and white polka dots for fall, making it a great time to pick out your own pieces.
Chain link straps
If you're looking for an easy and inexpensive way to update your look, a chain link belt is a safe option. It doesn't matter that you haven't worn one since 1988: whether you're throwing on a sweater or livening up a dress, it's an easy style hack. If you're not convinced by those in Rivals Watch Miu Miu's Spring 2025 show for more inspiration.
Red stilettos
If you remember the cover of the book, you know why the TV adaptation had to include a pair of red shoes. This is probably why they figure prominently in the very first scene: they, like their carrier, travel faster than the speed of sound. "It's a great way to start and set the tone," says Ray Holman. Their origin? 'I'd like to keep that between me and our ladies, but they [authentic 80s versions] are certainly becoming increasingly difficult to find. If we need more in the future - and fingers crossed we do - they will have to be made to order." Any hints of a second season? We can only hope.
Braids
Those who've experienced them will probably agree that if there's one element of the '80s that should forever be consigned to the fashion graveyard, it's hair. Bubble perms, backcombing, feathered bangs and bad bleaching were no one's friend, while the amount of Elnett used was certainly no friend of the ozone layer. But not every '80s hairstyle needed volume. One of the chicest styles involved braiding the hair back into a single braid, as most memorably seen on Sade (and recreated in Rivals by Cameron Cook). The understated look is currently experiencing a revival and is ideal to showcase this season's statement earrings.
Waxed jackets
The character is rare Rivals who isn't married to their waxed jacket, whether it's a pristine one or a battered one that generations of Labradors have chewed on. This is a drama set in the rural Rutshire countryside: outerwear is the unofficial star. But you don't have to live in the countryside to wear a waxed jacket this fall: it is the must-have this fall, for both men and women.
Leather blazers
What biker jackets were to the 2020s, leather blazers were to the '80s. After appearing on the runway at Balmain and Versace, they're also seeing a resurgence this fall (see Whistles and Jigsaw for mid-priced versions). Those of us who lament why we gave ours to Oxfam in the 1990s (just me?) can only be soothed by the hope that their next owner will see them for the wardrobe classics they undoubtedly are.
Bustiers
Worn most memorably by Madonna, it's Cameron Cook (Nafessa Williams) who provides the most mature take Rivals making them work-appropriate by wearing a black bustier over a pristine white shirt. It's a look that could have come straight off the Fall/Winter 2024 catwalk and is one of many sharp office looks worn by one of the show's most stylish characters.
Denim shirts
Anyone who's finding the fall menswear trends a little challenging at the moment can be happy to know that among the sheer knits, camouflage pants and 'grandpa core' on the catwalk, there's also the occasional denim shirt to be found. In Rival s, Declan O'Hara (Aidan Turner) presents a strong argument for the flawless 80s piece. Bonus points if you have one from an authentic workwear brand like Levi's, Wrangler or Lee.
Shiny lips
After seasons where matte lipstick dominated the trend cycle, shine is back. Fall is an ideal time to invest in a high-shine lipstick or gloss in a vibrant berry shade. Take inspiration from popular shades from the 80s, such as deep raspberry or muscadine, as worn by Sarah Stratton (Emily Atak).
