The beauty of San Sebastián, which lies gracefully between the sea and the mountains, is enchanting; gazing (and photographing) them is a favorite pastime. While most come to eat, the city has been attracting visitors long before its gastronomic boom, and boasts plenty of non-foodie activities.
Whether nature or culture is your favorite way to spend your holiday, they come together in San Sebastián. Climb the three mountains on foot or by cable car, visit retro theme parks or take a boat to the island for new views of the spectacular bay.
For more San Sebastián inspiration, check out our guide to the city and its best hotels, restaurants, pintxo bars and nightlife.
Travel to a beautiful island
The Isla de Santa Clara is one of the most photographed islands in the world, but few visitors actually set foot on it. The island has long been a gathering point; it was even used centuries ago to quarantine people with the plague. Today it is home to a lighthouse with a huge bronze art installation by Cristina Iglesias, stone tables that seem to appear out of nowhere perfect for a picnic, and a full-service bar with tables in the sun - not to mention amazing city view.
Insider tip: The usual way to arrive is by boat, which operates regularly during the summer season. The even cooler way to arrive is in a rented kayak (try Alokayak), paddle up and enjoy the island on your own time.
Enjoy some retail therapy
As its regal architecture and chic residents suggest, San Sebastián is a prosperous city. Blocks with all kinds of independent shops appeal to the imagination (and the wallet). Go to Minük and Labui for women's clothing, inma_lo for shoes and Loreak Mendian for clothes with Basque influences. Unique homewares can be found at Valentina, and stationery store Tamayo is a classic place to get lost among the shelves of tempting goods.
Insider tip: Unassuming storefronts can hide great finds, like Bois et Fer, an eclectic store founded by furniture designers and stocked with stylish homewares. And a little off the beaten track you'll find one of Spain's best independent perfume shops, Hunky Dory.
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Price: ££
Head to the beach and catch some waves
Of San Sebastián's three beaches, Zurriola attracts the young surfing crowd. There are several surf schools along the beach, renting equipment and offering lessons, but Pukas is the most established. Jump on top of a foam board if you're starting out, or on a short, handmade Pukas surfboard if you're already feeling confident, and surf the left-hander heading towards the pier or the right-hander Monpas.
Insider tip: In the summer months the beach can be very busy. Besides the convenience and educational factor, having an instructor also helps you claim more comfortable golf real estate.
Enjoy the city's gastronomic culture
Sociedades, or txokos, are the pillars of Basque food culture. These members-only spaces are equipped with professional cooking equipment, dry storage and plenty of wine - everything you need for a long meal of classic Basque cuisine, made by and enjoyed among friends. These clubs are rarely open to the public, so make sure you get access with a member (some tour groups offer the experience on a private basis).
Insider tip: The other option is a visit to San Sebastián Day, January 20, when some of the old city's most famous associations open their doors to the public - a wilder atmosphere, yes, but a glimpse into the hallowed halls.
Get a mountaintop view of the city
Climbing this ancient lookout spot is one of the city's great pleasures before or after a meal. Monte Urgull towers over the old town and played an important role in the history of San Sebastián. Enjoy the view, the hidden bar at the west end, or the scattered sights (stone remains of a castle, a fortress, and even a cemetery that pays tribute to English soldiers).
Insider tip: The giant statue of Jesus Christ atop the mountain isn't just for show; it also happens to be home to a fun (and free) museum with a multimedia look at San Sebastián, past, present and future.
Price: Free
Drum all night long for the Feast of San Sebastián
The evening before January 20, all locals prepare for Tamborrada, the biggest day of the year, and gather in the Plaza de la Constitucion with drums at the ready before the stroke of midnight. San Sebastián Day has been celebrated with tamborradas, or drum groups, since 1871, and since then the festival has grown to enormous proportions.
Insider tip: Don't miss the emotional izada (flag raising) at midnight and follow the dozens of groups dressed as chefs and soldiers marching through the old town. This is also the only day of the year when you can sneak into one of the city's eateries.
Price: Free
Experience some culture at the Tobacco Factory
A walk through this immense building, a former cigarette factory that towers above the Urumea River, reveals the beating cultural heart of the city. The Tabakalera has five floors of exhibition space, media labs, a creation library and numerous additional corners. Don't miss a food court with fantastic pizza and coffee.
Insider tip: Make sure you reach the top floor: an unadvertised but spectacular glass prism with an outdoor terrace. The view over the city is breathtaking.
Release your inner child in a retro amusement park
One of the oldest attractions in San Sebastián, the Monte Igueldo amusement park, is also one of the most magical. Inaugurated in 1912, it enjoys an incredible view, the best spot in the city for breathtaking photos. The real charm, however, lies in the park's retro - and exceptionally well-priced - attractions.
Insider tip: Be sure to make a turn for the Swiss Mountain, a vintage roller coaster that induces heart palpitations both for its age and its precarious position above the sea.
Go to the source of the Basque cider industry
An experience, not a restaurant - Basque cider houses are among the most remarkable productions of the local countryside. Arrive at the extensive country houses, almost all still owned by a single family, where cider has been made for centuries. Drink cider from the barrels and dine family style with salt cod and steak, after the course of course, and experience a true Basque tradition.
Insider tip: 'Gutxi eta maiz' is the expert's technique. In Basque it means "a little and often", and it is the way to drink so that your cider is always cold and your night always lively.
Visit an art-filled mansion
Eduardo Chillida, with his exciting Basque sensibility, is San Sebastián's favorite artist. He is known for his geometric sculptural pieces, made with stone, iron and other elemental materials. His recently reopened museum outside the city limits, Chillida Leku, showcases the artist's work as he intended, in a Basque farm setting, set against rolling green hills and distant mountains.
Insider tip: If you can't get to the countryside, at least admire the famous curved iron structures of Chillida that branch out from the rocks at the end of Ondarreta beach, combing the wind as it blows into the town from the ocean.
