One of the places where you can get a glimpse of Kinmen 金門 during its military period is at Yang Zhai Old Street 陽翟老街. This was once a bustling street built in 1958 after the 823 Artillery Bombardment when 100,000 soldiers were stationed in Kinmen. After the army left, it was left derelict with only a few stores continuing to operate. Acclaimed Taiwanese director brought new life to this place by choosing it as one of the key scenes for his movie Paradise in Service軍中樂園, sprucing it up and returning it to its past glory. Plus – it’s an awesome place for photo-taking :)
A lot of effort went into 鈕承澤 Doze Niu’s latest movie – he spent 8 years conceptualizing the movie, 2 years preparing and 1 year filming it. Not to mention re-creating an entire street for the movie.
Set in the island Kinmen, often seen as the most dangerous military base due to its geographical proximity to China, Paradise in Service follows the adventure of a boy who serves his military service in Unit 831 from 1969 to 1972, in preparation for a war that could erupt anytime. Through an unlucky lottery draw result, Pao (Ethan Ruan 阮經天), a twenty-something young man from Southern Taiwan has to serve the military in the remote and perilous Kinmen. Moreover, he is assigned to the Sea Dragon, a unit noted for the toughest physical training. It never occurs to Pao, however, that the greatest challenge in his military service lies not in the Sea Dragon but in Unit 831, a special task he is later appointed to… In this peculiar assignment, Pao vows to keep his virginity against all odds.
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
Yang Zhai Old Street was re-stored to its former glory for the movie
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
The lonely and rundown street before restoration
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
The street after its facelift. Storefronts and shop signages were re-created, retro advertisements painted on walls, and the craziest of them all – the original cement flooring re-paved just for the movie, and removed after filming was completed.
The man who made it all happen Doze Niu Cheng-Tse 鈕承澤
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
If the compelling storyline nor the director’s credentials didn’t motivate me enough to watch the movie – this scene from the movie certainly did…look at those pecs! :p
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
金东电影院 Jindong Cinema
This cinema was built in 1960 as a leisure venue for the military stationed there. The calligraphy of the signage comes with much heritage too – they were written by Yu Youren 于右任, a scholar of calligraphy and highly regarded as one China’s modern masters. The building has been gazetted as a heritage building.
This Military Post Office was created for the movie. The original location of this post office was further away.
One of the few shops still in operation. I am so digging the retro signboard!
Fancy taking a photo at this photography studio?
This iced dessert shop 冰果室was really nicely done up. I can imagine the soldiers coming here to have an iced dessert to escape the blistering Kinmen heat.
Interior of the iced dessert shop
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
Main actors Ethan Ruan 阮經天 and Ivy Chen 陳意涵 running down the street in the movie. Don’t they look hot? :)
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
The interior of the shops were all decorated as close to the original back then, complete with Taiwan flags proudly flown.
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
As Kinmen was a military base, a number of shops sold military supplies like this one in the movie.
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
One of Kinmen’s iconic trades, mee sua making, re-created for the movie.
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
Bookstore
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
Long Ling Public Bath 龍陵浴室 was where the soldiers would come to take a hot bath in the past. Being at war, getting a nice bath was a luxury – which we have since taken for granted.
I think I just spotted one of the actors in the movie, hello doggy! :D
The hairdressing and barber shops is an awesome place for taking photos. Kai shows us his moves here :D
Interior of the hairdressing salon. Have you been to one like this before?
Image: Paradise in Service Facebook page
Soft drinks were very expensive in those days, and you only got to have one (or shared with other kids) during festive seasons. I bet the kids must have leapt for joy like I did!
Military-inspired murals and slogans painted on the walls
The slogan “Long live President Chiang” was re-created on the front of this Minnan-style residence
The movie has done something good for Yang Zhai Old Street – it has become a spot for visitors to take photos. The Kinmen county has also recently announced that 17 of the shops will be rented out for businesses to re-create the boisterousness of this street.
Awesome backdrop for a Look of the Day :)
Good job, Sir!
Bookstore inspired by Chang Chun Bookstore 长春书局
The owner of Chang Chun Bookstore Chen Chang Du has written a number of books about Kinmen during the military period, and also played a part in the setting up of a 特约茶室 museum.
Hungry? You can try Qun Ying Lou 群英樓, a traditional Kinmenese reataurant just nearby.
Come by to visit when you are in Kinmen, and don’t forget to watch the movie! :)
陽翟老街 Yang Zhai Old Street
Tel: (082) 324 174
Address: 金門縣金沙鎮光前里陽翟1 號
Getting There
By Bus – Take Bus No. 18 or 31 from Sha Mei Bus Station 沙美车站. Alight at Yang Zhai 陽翟车站stop .
By Car
1) Jin Sha Station 金沙车站 -> Huan Dao Dong Lu 环岛东路 -> Yan Zhai Gong Che Ting 陽翟公车亭 -> Make a left turn and you are there
2) Jin Cheng Shi Qu 金城市区 -> Huan Dao Bei Lu 环岛北路 -> Gao Keng 高坑 -> Turn right into Gao Yang Lu 高阳路 -> Turn right at Huan Dao Dong Lu Yi Duan环岛东路一段 into Yang Zhai Gong Che Ting陽翟公车亭 -> Make a left turn and you are there
軍中樂園Paradise in Service
Facebook Page: www.facebook.com/paradiseinservice
Website: http://www.paradiseinservice.com/
