From the drizzle-soaked tarmac one afternoon in Essex, we had a few moments to kill before we set off. As he idly flipped through the inflight magazine, a dreamscape of mountain wellness hotels and powder slopes filled the air. There it was, in black and white, on high-quality recycled paper, including exclamation mark.
"The flight itself is a holiday!"
Fighting words from the president of the three-year-old SkyAlps from Bolzano, Josef Gostner. The Italian entrepreneur, a renewable energy magnate and a qualified pilot himself, is behind the drive to offer British skiers a faster way to reach the glittering Crayola box-coloured Dolomites, along with a top-level flying experience.
The first SkyAlps winter service left London Stansted for Bolzano on December 13 and promises to transform a ski holiday in the underrated region. More personal service, better refreshments, fewer passengers and a destination airport that puts you no less than 40 minutes away from the slopes passeggiata.
When it comes to creating that private plane feeling, little luxuries count. We started well with a queue-free check-in desk. Here I also tackled another obstacle of the ski traveler: large luggage. Even though this was a three-day trip, my bag weighed 16.5kg, more than the 15kg allowance for a standard fare. Nobody batted an eye. "We are not a budget airline, so we try to be helpful," said SkyAlps representative Daniela Lintner, smiling as she handed over my boarding pass.
Getting used to it was painless. The seats are configured two-by-two, avoiding the dreaded middle-seat scenario. Fewer than twenty passengers meant about 60 empty seats and lots of luggage space. Among us were a few Italians heading home and a young professional from London meeting her family for a ski holiday. Lacking an entertainment system or Wi-Fi, my 16A port seat had a rather thrilling view of the underside of the wing and one of the plane's two six-blade propellers.
The story continues
A convincing rumble filled the cabin as the two engines fired up for a prompt departure at 4:05 p.m. The Canadian-made Dash DHC-8 Q400 is intended to be one of the quieter turboprop aircraft in the sky. The Q may stand for 'quiet', but the powerful take-off has a decidedly higher frisson factor than your regular jet. By the time we leveled out at 80,000 feet it was approaching five o'clock and during our vacation on board all thoughts turned to après ski in the sky.
Instead of asking for payment for the usual lukewarm refreshment, the friendly attendant handed me a printed wine list. It was a no-plonk zone: very drinkable South Tyrolean wines were served with great enthusiasm - two white, one red and one bubbly. The snacks were local too: from a region known for its high-quality cuisine born of Italian flair, we grazed on Loacker biscuits, full-fat yoghurt and fennel-flavoured Schüttelbrot (a crispy regional bread). Drinks and snacks are free and they came by more than once.
Now let's look at the value. This isn't a budget airline - one-way tickets start at €184 (£159) - but it's no Gulfstream either. Despite only having one toilet and seats that don't recline, the arrival moment alone can be worth the investment in terms of delivering a touch of luxury.
Enter the practically private terminal. After two hours and thirty minutes in the air, disembarking at the vine-lined Aeroporto di Bolzano felt stylish and comfortable, in contrast to the atmosphere of human processing plants at some "world-class" airports. Apart from a small number of SkyAlps flights, the only other flights operating here are the so-called 'general aviation', better known as the occasional Zurich banker who comes aboard on his private plane. After a quick passport check I was out the door and completely missed the baggage carousel that was already spinning with our belongings. A nice man delivered them a little later.
All this premium living gets you ready for the main event. Touchdown plus 40 minutes drive, you're in the seaside resort of Val Gardena, and beyond that there are countless choices. It is first Selva, then a little further Alpe di Siusi, Kronplatz and Corvara, where I was enjoying aperitif at the traditional Hotel Sassongher 90 minutes after landing.
Each of these pretty villages is part of the 1,200km continuous Dolomiti Superski ski area - a tangle of smooth white slopes that, if stretched, could run the entire length of the country itself. But that's only half the story. These crowd-free havens - which also include La Villa, San Cassiano and Colfosco, which make up the Alta Badia region - are home to a gastro-ski getaway of Romanesque proportions.
As part of Alta Badia's restaurant-wide A Taste for Skiing dining initiative, eight mountain restaurants will offer a gourmet dish prepared by another Michelin-starred Italian chef, using fine South Tyrolean produce and accompanying local wines. The dishes cost from €21 (£18) - such as the cappuccino soup with mushrooms and sausage that I enjoyed at Ütia Bioch. A good mountain lunch doesn't get much better. Or is it?
Blink and you'll miss Col Alto, tucked beneath the gondola station of the same name and overlooking a mix of Dolomite peaks. Order a deluxe sample of trout tartare, bacon and foie gras starters, served with large baskets of bread. A delicious final lunch, concluded with a final drive home, floating and floating under the pink glow of the setting Dolomites sun. After all, the holiday is in flight.
Essentials
SkyAlps operates flights twice a week (Wednesday and Sunday) between London and Bolzano from €184 (£159) each way. Fifty percent discount for children from two to eleven years old, children under two years old free. Hotel Sassongher offers rooms from €300 per night, half board, based on two people. For more information about Corvara and Alta Badia.
Find more of the best ski resorts in Italy in our guide.
