LONDON - Simon Holloway, Dunhill's new creative director, has chosen a predominantly women's fashion showcase to unveil his debut menswear collection, and while the choice may seem unusual, there's a logic to it.
Holloway, who took up his role last April, wants to bring British luxury menswear back into the spotlight. Despite a host of thriving brands and businesses on and around Savile Row, there is no longer a menswear fashion week here. So what better place to make an impression than London Fashion Week?
More from WWD"It's important to reclaim the mantle of British menswear excellence because it's been a bit absent," Holloway said in an interview.
"The world references British menswear in their design work, whether it's heritage in colour, typology of fabrics or even the codes of classic menswear - it really comes from an English construction. It would be great to celebrate that in a very beautiful way," he added.
Since joining the 131-year-old British house, owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, he has sought to create a strong visual language for Dunhill through activations and campaigns that highlight British style and craftsmanship.
Holloway is familiar with many aspects of British style and his background spans women's and men's clothing, accessories and shoes. He arrived at Dunhill after a brief stint as creative director of James Purdey & Sons, the renowned gunmaker and outdoor clothing supplier that is also part of the Richemont stable.
He is British, lives in London and studied fashion design at Kingston University School of Fashion. He is known for his soft touch, expertise in luxury fabrics and leathers, and his ability to work with ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories.
Before joining Purdey, Holloway was creative director of Agnona and has spent a career in fashion and luxury, holding senior creative roles at brands including Hogan, Jimmy Choo, Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren.
The story continues
He said his priority is "to retell Dunhill's story, and it's a story that a lot of people don't really know. Dunhill started with all things automotive. And there was an exploration of outerwear, like the original car coats made in the early 20th century.
"Sporty tailoring" was Dunhill's route into ready-to-wear, and early styles were inspired by English aristocrats' love of driving.
In the archives, Holloway found car coats and jackets made of leather and sometimes tweed, which he used as inspiration for the fall 2024 collection.
He's taken those early designs and remade them for the 21st century, giving them a lighter and more contemporary twist.
The silhouettes, Holloway said, have a "quintessentially English" feel, but they won't be produced in a way that is heavy and old-fashioned. "They better reflect the way men dress today, while taking into account the depth and heritage [of fabrics] that Dunhill customers are accustomed to," he added.
In a further tribute to British history, Holloway's exhibition will take place in the Duveen Wing of the National Portrait Gallery, which was opened in 1939 by King George V and Queen Mary.
"I really wanted to show the collection in a quintessentially British environment, not some stuffy old club on Pall Mall with all the unfortunate trappings of empire that no one wants to look at or be associated with," the designer said.
The National Portrait Gallery, opened in 1856, felt like the right choice for Holloway for other reasons too. He believes the institution has addressed "the country's problematic history" without losing its historical or aesthetic value.
He also believes the newly renovated gallery is a "reflection of the society we live in today" as it shines a light on artists, writers and architects throughout history.
"Most of the artwork in these rooms celebrates creativity. The subject matter of the galleries is much more of a positive message than the stuffy 'Mr. so and so'," Holloway explained.
That said, he hopes the backdrop of paintings, gilded frames and quilted silk walls doesn't give anyone the wrong impression.
"I'm not trying to create some period costume drama," he said, adding that the collection is "very much for a man today."
The collection will feature Dunhill's three levels of tailoring: ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and made-to-measure - as one unique vision of the catwalk.
Dunhill's custom clothing, he said, is a big business.
"We have a very strong and loyal customer base internationally with significant customization activities in the US, Japan and China, as well as here at home," said the designer.
"We are seeing double-digit growth in our tailoring sales. There is a high demand for ready-made garments, custom orders as well as tailoring," he added.
A spokesperson for the brand said Dunhill is not feeling the impact of the global luxury slowdown, with "sales increasing year-on-year in both the West and Asia."
As reported, the company has restructured its operations in 2022 with an increased focus on "classic style, masculine elegance and a sense of Britishness."
The brand recently closed its store next to the Royal Academy due to the landlord's redevelopment of the property. As a result, Dunhill's focus over the next 18 months will be on its members' club and global flagship, Bourdon House, on Davies Street in Mayfair.
Bourdon House has undergone an interior refresh, as well as an updated and developed 'experience' that aims to attract customers to the Dunhill universe. An in-house tailoring team is on hand for the brand's rtw, bespoke and made-to-measure offerings. There is also a discreet VIP area, a barber shop and Alfred's Café.
Holloway said he is willing to use Bourdon House as a laboratory to test his ideas and innovations, similar to founder Alfred Dunhill's approach.
When he took the job, Holloway described the house's founder as "a pioneer, an innovator and one of the most influential British tastemakers of the 20th century. His obsession with ingenuity and refinement has created a home synonymous with purposeful luxury and quality - an enduring and powerful inspiration."
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