Short stay: Middlethorpe Hotel and Spa, York, UK
The house of red brick and white sash windows, built in 1699, echoes both the grandeur of Hampton Court and the elegant reconstruction of London by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire of London.
Although owner Thomas Barlow's views on architecture were influenced by his Grand Tour of Europe, the Middlethorpe Hall Hotel and Spa, with its lawns and grounds, is the quintessential English country house. Managed by historic hotels, whose ownership has been donated to the National Trust to best preserve this national treasure, the exterior and interior pay homage to the heritage of this slice of history.
HomePrior to arrival, guests receive an email with a health questionnaire and are asked to specify an arrival time. You can relax, Middlethorpe Hall does everything possible to protect the health of its guests.
After registration, Mr. Lionel Chatard, the manager, welcomes us. In doing so, a porter in an elegant green gold braided livery discreetly takes our luggage to be delivered to the room. Monsieur Chatard, originally from Lyon and living in Middlethorpe for 17 years, guides us down a wide staircase, in front of imposing oil portraits of the Barlow family to our large bedroom. There is an elevator but since this is the original butler's freight elevator, there is some debate as to whether it is one or two passengers.
Later, Monsieur Chatard introduces us to Balou, a muscular red-and-white cat, who clearly considers himself the true owner of Middlethorpe Hall.
BedroomThe spacious bedroom 9 is located at the top of the southwest corner of the house. Three tall windows offer stunning views out to the flagstone patio, past a large Turkish oak and Deodar cedar, across the southern lawns, son haha and the park beyond where deer sometimes roam.
Although there is a large four-poster bed it does not dominate a great subtlety of a room lit by table lamps, floor lamps and sconces. Puddles of light illuminate a series of Victorian haute couture magazine cover prints The Queen. With its sofa, armchair and desk, it could be a living room from the Age of Enlightenment. A trouser press, a generously stocked tea tray, and a wardrobe are a reminder that this is a hotel.
The bedding on the canopy is reminiscent of a traditional era of sheets, blankets and comforters.
The bathroomOnce you've used the Quercus toiletries provided by Penhaligon, there is a seductive intoxicating scent in the bathroom: top notes of Amalfi lemon on a base of sandalwood and musk. The towels and flannels are deep, decadently plush with the royal HHH (Historic House Hotels) monogram.
The water, flowing to a combined tub and rainfall shower, is incredibly warm for the top floor of a William and Mary mansion built over three centuries ago.
The installationsThe AA restaurant with two rosettes crosses three rooms. The largest has original woodwork from 1699 and sits next to the Pineapple Room showcasing fruit themed art deemed both exotic and luxurious in the 18th century. A third, The Yellow Room, presents 25 portraits of the great, the good and the pious: dukes, earls, lords and archbishops.
Chef Ashley Binder uses products from The Walled Garden on her menu as well as the best local suppliers of fish, game and meat. After the damson trees bloom, a chicken and leek pressed starter is accompanied by damson jam. The glorious spring weather encouraged a healthy harvest of cherries and they are now featured in a chocolate and cherry rocky road dessert. Fittingly, chocolate is reminiscent of the Victorian era when Sir Frank Terry, the chocolate mogul, owned Middlethorpe Hall.
The restaurant rightly prides itself on its Yorkshire breakfast. While this sounds like a gargantuan feast of bacon, black pudding, sausage, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, and potatoes - the portions are moderate and reasonable.
A few meters along the quiet lane of the spa are two quaint cottages, with lounge chairs in the gardens, which are in fact the spa. In addition to the treatment rooms, there is an indoor pool and hot tub.
Location South West of York, close to the racecourse, the hotel is less than 2 miles by bus from central York with The Shambles, its cathedral, the Jorvik Viking Center and the famous National Railway Museum.
Other nice touchesThe service is impeccable. Curl up on a sofa in the living room or library or at a table on the patio, and a well-dressed staff member will ask you if you need coffee, lunch, afternoon tea or drinks.
Before Covid 19, a tray of morning tea, delivered to your room, was another of Middlethorpe's great pleasures. Unfortunately, this custom is temporarily in abeyance.
The costA four-poster room in the main house, including Yorkshire breakfast, costs £ 429 to £ 539 for the Duke of York suite.
A standard double / twin room in The Courtyard costs £ 219.
A three course dinner costs £ 45, two courses for £ 39.
The best songWithout a doubt, the 20 acres of Middlethorpe Hall grounds are the star attraction. Take the National Trust's leaflet guide to the field to navigate to a rush lake that contains both perch and roach.
As you walk, check off the towering trees on the map: an oak over two centuries old, a Judas tree, a Lebanon cedar, and many other notable specimens. Thomas Barlow and his successors built and planted to leave a legacy.
Around the field, there are strategically placed seats, perhaps for watching butterflies fly around a purple buddleia, sometimes known as the butterfly bush. Guests relax in the walled garden's solar trap as gardeners cut agapanthus, dahlias, giant daisies, and roses for the flower arrangements scattered throughout the hotel. Inviting, the croquet lawn is ready for a game.
The final verdictYou can use the Middlethorpe Hall Hotel and Spa as a base to explore the city of York, the charms of North Yorkshire and the beautiful East Coast. But how often can you park the car and step into the 18th century?
Visiting a National Trust property is a pleasure. Eating, living and sleeping in a slice of Britain's rich history is a privilege.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Middlethorpe Hall Hotel and Spa.
