A map of the river. Click to enlarge.
The Puerto Princesa Underground River. Some say it's overrated. I say it's over rated — the tour price of Php1500 is too much. My stingy mustache simply refused to spend that much for a ride down a river in the darkness. Granted the fee of Php1500 includes transfers to and from Puerto Princesa by van, to and from Sabang by pumpboat, buffet lunch, permit, and a 45-minute guided tour of the underground river, still my cheap self prevailed. But a visit to Puerto Princesa, I say to my first-timer self, should include the Underground River. If there's a will, there's a way. And a cheap way there is.First, the permit. You certainly cannot go to the Underground River without one. (If you got there without a permit, tell me how.) You must apply for a permit at their booking office days before your scheduled visit. Slots can get filled up fast — they only allow a certain number of visitors per day. Or you can follow my lead and employ a travel agency to process a permit for you. Of course for an additional amount as service charge. In my case, it was Php175 for the permit plus Php50 service charge.
A crowded tourism office in Sabang
Then the problem of getting to Sabang. There are buses and vans going to Sabang whether you're coming from El Nido (5 hours) or Puerto Princesa (1.5 hours). Regrettably, I do not have any idea how much the fares are nor do I have the schedule. Our group swung by Sabang in our rented van on the way to Puerto Princesa from El Nido. This side trip cost us Php1500.You have your permit and are now in Sabang. Then what? More digging in the pocket for fees. You have to pay the following at the tourism office in Sabang: environment fee Php40, boat rental Php700 (that's good for six persons already so gather up the gang or make friends with solo travelers or small groups), wharf fee of Php15 per boat, and, if you have a private vehicle or rented a van for your group, there's the parking fee of Php15.
Permit ready. All fees paid. Time to go to the waiting area to get assigned a pumpboat. If the line is long and you are getting hungry, there are a bunch of eateries in Sabang. Take your pick.
The pumpboat assigned to you will take you to and from Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (PPSRNP). The boat ride takes about 15 minutes, one way. If you see dozens of boats waiting near the shore as you approach the national park, expect to spend an hour or so waiting for your turn to get inside the underground river. As soon as you arrive in PPSRNP, get a priority number, lest you wait forever.
What to do while waiting? Nope, not swimming. Sorry. Swimming is prohibited in the area; it's a marine reservation. What you can do is go look for monkeys and monitor lizards or take hundreds of photos around the beach. Be careful around the monkeys. Don't bring plastic bags. When the monkeys hear the sound of plastic they think it's food and will not hesitate to grab whatever it is they have fancied. And never grin at a monkey. You do not want to be attacked.
Tired of keeping yourself from grinning at the monkey? Go back to the waiting area and wait for your number to be called. Before boarding your row boat, don your lifevest and your helmet.
The subterranean river is 8.2 km long but the tour will only cover 1.5 km. Beyond that, a special permit is needed.
I won't spoil your own underground river experience by repeating our guide's stories (besides I will never be able to tell it like he did). Here are a few of the photos taken inside the cave.
The subterranean river is best enjoyed by:
- having patience. You will have your ride in the darkness soon enough.
- sitting in front and assisting with the light...only if your sense of hearing is 100% and you can follow instructions
- volunteering to sit at the last row, right in front of the guide...if your ears function at 50% or less
- using your imagination. A must.
- wearing a raincoat. Only if you're a gremlin.
How Mustachio avoided the Php1500 tour package:
Permit Php175
Service fee for the processing of permit Php50
Van sidetrip (Php1500 shared by 10) Php150
Environment fee Php40
Pumpboat to Sabang (Php700 shared by 5) Php140
Wharf fee (Php15 shared by 5) Php3
Parking fee (Php15 shared by 5) Php3
Lunch at a carenderia in Sabang Php75
Total of Php636. Take that tour package!
Puerto Princesa and El Nido:
Puerto Princesa: Zzzzs, Wheels, Meals
Vietnam in Palawan
The Gypsy's Lair
Puerto Princesa Underground River (you're here!)
and more soon!
