My shirtmaker Ascot Chang was at San Francisco’s Fairmont Hotel this week, and they confirmed for me something I’ve been suspecting for a long time. After a year of unhealthy eating and not enough exercise, my shirts seem to have shrunk about an inch in the waist. So my pattern will be adjusted for future orders, which makes me think: as exciting as it can be to try out new tailors when you’re abroad, if you plan to have the majority of your clothes custom made, it’s good to have someone you can dependably see on a regular basis. People’s bodies change, and although adjustments can sometimes be made over the internet with a little guesswork here and there, nothing beats having your tailor see you in person.
Anyway, while I was there, I decided to flip through some flannel shirtings. Pictured here are some brushed cottons and Viyella wool/ cotton blends. Viyella is an English fabric that was first woven in 1893, making it the first branded fabric in the world. I actually thought they had moved on to becoming a clothing and home furnishings company, and no longer made their famous blended shirtings, but it seems Ascot Chang had two books full. Maybe these are old stock? I forgot to ask.
I’m thinking about picking up one of the green/ cream/ gold plaids to wear with brown corduroys and moleskins in the fall, and though the cream tattersall - with grey, burgundy, green, and navy stripes - doesn’t look appealing at first, I think it can work quite well underneath a tweed or corduroy sport coat. Two flannel shirtings to start with, and then maybe a navy thin-waled corduroy shirt with a button-flapped chest pocket if I’m feeling brave.
Ascot Chang will be doing another tour sometime around November. You can see which cities they visit here. And since this year is their 60th anniversary, they’re doing a promotion where you can get one free shirt with any six you order. Expect prices for basic fabrics to start around $175.
