MILAN - Black or white, and no color in between.
Partywear showcased its range at Milan Fashion Week, with designers' inspiration ranging from film to music, via ancient Greece and the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe. But the color scheme remained consistent.
More from WWDHere is an overview of the fall 2024 presentations in the city.
Luca Lin van Action. N.1 was in a romantic mood and used film and the early days of silent films as his inspiration. "Cinemas in Italy are closing or disappearing, and that is sad," said the designer. "For me, the cinema is a place to find peace and dream."
He wrapped much of this collection in tulle, from denim with raw edges to jackets with drapes or corset details. The tulle gave the clothes a grand look and blurred the rough cut or tailored edges, evoking images of the black and white screen. A cream white jacket with a tulle skirt was one of the standout pieces of this collection.
He also drew inspiration from the ladies of silent films and turned their corsets into denim tops and custom-made jackets. He also made sheer and blush corsets to pair with tailored clothing. These corset styles added a touch of sex and drama to the collection.
Don't ask Des Phemmes ' Salvo Rizza to give up his love for sparkle, embroideries and a bit of popping sass. For fall, his candy-colored take on partywear leaned toward the ladylike, courtesy of mid-century inspiration centered on the captivating interior design clash at Casa Mollino, the Turin home and museum of famed architect Carlo Mollino.
For daring girls, a midi skirt with a low waist and floral appliqué was combined with a lace bra and panties sticking out, while an optically flowy striped halter neck dress with maxi sequins looked playful and was easier to take off, the same goes for the midi skirt with cow print and rib-knit lurex turtleneck, except for the impossibly high side slit. These bold and distinctive pieces mixed with elaborate daywear, a business boon as the designer expands the brand's reach.
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Now backed by Italian manufacturing company Olmar and Mirta SpA, which acquired an undisclosed minority stake last year, Rizza has managed to build a significant business in the United States, which now accounts for 70 percent of sales, and its footprint wants to strengthen in Europe.
CHB Distributed through the same MDC showroom as Des Phemmes, 's Christian Boaro continued to chart his subverted bourgeois look, adhering to the sensual ideas that first thrust him into the spotlight with his first solo fashion project.
A few dramatic dresses, including a sheer lace number with a trail of four different patterns and a fitted bustier dress with a midi balloon skirt in duchesse, were flanked by equally naughty gowns (easier to imagine for thirty-somethings heading out). nightclub).
Inspired by the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe and evocative images of Grace Jones in the 1980s, Boaro incorporated black vinyl into draped strapless mini dresses and skirts, as well as bustier dresses with vertically running zippers or buttons at the front. A range of faux fur, created in collaboration with supplier Tissavel, exuded an old-school hedonistic flair, as in the belted faux astrakhan trench coat and the fluffy Mongolian short jackets in fiery red and black.
I share a similar color palette with Boaro of black, white but also red, Alessandro Vigilante who will soon unveil his first collection as creative director of Rochas, wanted to go back to the days when he first introduced the eponymous brand with latex, form-fitting dresses and an edge.
The graphic undercurrent was reflected in the constructions and color combinations, such as in the striking white wrap dress with turtleneck and black trompe l'oeil print of a life-size naked female body on the back, a nod to the artworks of painter Kazimir Malevic. It was flanked by a tank dress in open-weave, mesh-like knit studded with tiny sequins, while a plain latex spaghetti dress and an elongated blazer in the style of the 80s, worn as mini dresses with a corset belt to accentuate the waist, facilitated pieces were appropriate for cocktail receptions. and afterparties.
Francesco Murano is another natural talent who could easily land a top spot. He was about to graduate from Milan's Istituto Europeo di Design when Beyoncé requested some of his creations for her "Spirit" music video, and later wore another of his pieces to the official pre-Grammy 2020 party. His refined aesthetic and expert hand in all things drapery - a reflection of his love for couture and Greek culture - were further enhanced in his new collection, which also introduced leather.
Murano processed both jersey - his favorite fabric - and leather in a way to obtain the most lightweight versions, resulting in a seamless combination of the two and in new transparencies. An even more seductive undercurrent was infused into his sensual creations via asymmetries, craters and plunging necklines, rendered in his traditional dusty palette of grey, white and blush pink tones.
Repayment is planning a runway comeback in September, but while it stuck to the presentation format it relied on its eveningwear bread and butter, conjuring up a nighttime lineup fit for red carpet after-parties.
Mini dresses adorned with sequins, strong shoulders that buckle in the style of the 80s and bustier tops and dresses, all done in a nighttime palette, mixed with velvet blazers decorated with lurex threads, thrown over beautiful blouses with chevron and checkerboard pattern which cater to more conservative partygoers.
Gianluca Capannolo put a fresh spin on his ladylike, tailored pieces, with gold-flecked black tweed jackets and strapped capes and a wealth of chunky gold chain jewelry. He even made a mini dress out of those gold chains, which are supposed to send an electric shock through every room.
The designer also had a rich range of faux fur, including a Mongolian coat in a rich burgundy shade, silver-gray fox fur and dresses with a feathered ostrich embellishment. Some of these glamorous looks were often convertible, as in trousers that turned into a maxi skirt thanks to strategically placed zippers.
ATXV founder Antonio Tarantini continued his study of the human body, this time landing on the 'alive, strong, sexy and free' feeling that crinkled sketched paper gave him. After basing his blueprint on the use of twisted, flamed and draped jersey, Tarantini reworked the fabric into a sensual, genderless collection, with hints of '90s and subtle eroticism.
Micro dresses built on simple silhouettes, such as the body-con, long sleeve or spaghetti dress, were draped to reveal a shoulder here and a belly there. Crumpled viscose was worked into similarly unusual, revealing constructions, including a short nightgown that was tied at one hip to create a high slit and at the chest, revealing a nude-like tulle underlay.
Federica Tosi itself had much to celebrate, as the designer recently entered into a strategic partnership with Italian manufacturing company Industria 62 to boost Made in Italy production of her eponymous brand and fuel international expansion.
On the fashion front, the designer continued to rely on high-quality materials for fall, creating her everyday pieces from wool, cashmere, silk and soft leather. Her signature penchant for clean lines and overall commitment to wearability also translated into her eveningwear proposition, via essential long dresses covered in sequins for a simple yet impactful effect. Tosi introduced a touch of fun and movement in a frayed sequin suit and hot pants that might as well have included an invitation to the dance floor.
John Richmond is clearly a music nerd who has dedicated his fall collection to the genres that, he said, "saved his life," from disco to rock 'n' roll and hip-hop. The lineup didn't seem too literal when translating that iconography; the wardrobe proposal focused heavily on tailoring and evening wear.
On the final front, a pearl-trimmed one-shoulder mini dress had revealing cutouts at the hip and torso, while a nude-style column dress was printed with tattoo-like drawings and finished with a crystal choker. In addition to neatly cut suits for men and women, tailoring also seeped into partywear, such as the brocade-printed gold suit with flared trousers or short shorts for her and the ivory Shantung suit with glitter lapels, worn with a bow-tie shirt for him.
Curiel The in-house team of designers has mined the brand's rich archive and showcased a collection full of old-world glamour. There were 1950s velvet and satin dresses reminiscent of a young Princess Margaret and sparkling treats for the evening.
This season, the brand also brought in multidisciplinary artist Matteo Thiela to collaborate with the brand. Thiela left guests spellbound as he created a skimpy black evening gown with miles of textured thread and a twirling mannequin.
The thread wraps around the mannequin and Thiela can create different styles without the use of a needle and thread. He works with lamé, viscose and cotton yarns, adding velvet ribbons and feathers and sealing the seams with resin.
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