Fashion Magazine

Nicholas Templeman

By Dieworkwear @dieworkwear
image

Someone on StyleForum last month commented on how it seems everything has been discovered and there are no more new tailors or shoemakers, or even worthwhile ready-to-wear brands, to talk about. Nothing could be further from the truth. In Naples and London alone, there are plenty of young, independent artisans just starting their own firms. You just have to know where to look. 

Recently, a new bespoke shoemaker has emerged in the form of Nicholas Templeman, a former employee of John Lobb of St. James in London. Templeman worked at Lobb for about seven years – serving as the company’s fitter and lastmaker – before striking out on his own. His house style is classic and English, with construction techniques that closely follow West End traditions. That means the last making, lasting, and welting are all done by hand, with only the sewing of the uppers being executed by machine.

image

Templeman makes his lasts with a large, hinged blade known as a stock knife, which you can see him use in the photo below. Stock knives aren’t used much anymore – even in bespoke houses – because they take up too much room and require too much finesse to operate. Plus, there’s the problem of keeping the blade sharp, which requires another set of skills altogether. Still, they’re useful for chopping down wood for pegs, clogs, and bespoke lasts. 

Unlike some makers, Templeman doesn’t make his lasts by modifying already-existing Springline forms. Instead, he starts with a “master form,” which is effectively a large blob of wood that vaguely resembles a last. This gets chopped down by the large stock knife, and then rasped and filed away until it takes its final shape. In the photo above, you can see the “master form” on the left (it comes to him in different sizes, as needed) and then the final last on the right. Starting with an already turned block of wood allows him to get a head start in chopping things down, without compromising any of his creative work. 

Templeman says the method for lastmaking isn’t what’s important though. “What’s crucial is that the lastmaker gets a result that works for him,” he says. “I use a stock knife because I like using it, and if I were to stop, it would feel like a bit of history and tradition is being thrown away.” 

image

One of the things that strikes me as unique about Templeman’s work – as opposed to the few remaining bespoke British shoemakers – is that Templeman largely does everything himself. Some of the work is sent out to outworkers, such as sewing the uppers when he gets backed up, but all of the important steps (i.e. making the lasts, pulling the uppers, attaching the soles, and fitting the client) are fully done by him. To the degree that you can get a pair of shoes with one maker’s thumbprint on it, this is it. 

Templeman plans to visit the US this year, touring through the cities of New York, Boston, and Chicago in October, and then coming back in six months for fittings. If you’re interested in seeing him, you can contact him through his website (even if you’re in another city, it might be worth expressing your interest). For future orders, he says he prefers to conduct fittings. “Beyond just fitting the shoes,” he says, “you have to fulfill the small details in the client’s mind – such as the outline of the lake, length of the toe, and silhouette of the heel.” However, if that’s not possible, he can also take orders over the phone or email, once you have your last made. 

image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image

You Might Also Like :

Back to Featured Articles on Logo Paperblog

These articles might interest you :

  • Hue Are You? with Kim Hoegger

    You? with Hoegger

    Welcome to HUE ARE YOU? A weekly blog series exploring different creatives' views on color and its use in interiors, art and design. We will dive deep into thei... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Bridgetbeari
    HOME, INTERIOR DESIGN
  • 10 Strategies For Rebounding From Startup Failures

    Strategies Rebounding From Startup Failures

    If you can’t deal with failure, then the entrepreneur lifestyle is not for you. Don’t believe that urban myth that all you need is a good idea, a little fun... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Martin Zwilling
    BUSINESS, CAREER
  • Lance Armstrong Settles $100 Million Lawsuit with Federal Government

    Lance Armstrong Settles $100 Million Lawsuit with Federal Government

    Yesterday, former pro cyclist and Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong put to rest the final lawsuit that has been dogging him since he admitted to doping... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Kungfujedi
    OUTDOORS
  • Actor Matt McGorry Does Some Serious Ally Work

    Actor Matt McGorry Does Some Serious Ally Work

    If you’ve watched How To Get Away With Murder or Orange is the New Black, you’ve seen the work of actor Matt McGorry. If you follow him on Facebook you saw him... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Danceswithfat
    DIET & WEIGHT, FITNESS, HEALTH
  • Trio of Climbers Make First Ascent of Jeannette Peak in Canada

    Trio Climbers Make First Ascent Jeannette Peak Canada

    The news of this story broke a week or so back while I was on the road, and it got lost in my email box until now. Still, it is a good story and I thought it wa... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Kungfujedi
    OUTDOORS
  • Teach Anywhere

    Teach Anywhere

    Teach anywhere one of the best recruitment companies for teachers in the UAE. The Dubai City Company would like to review this company. With this in mind, this... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Dubai City Company
    CAREER
  • Khost - Governance

    Khost Governance

    U.K. duo khost released their third full-length album titled Governance in June of 2017.What Damian Bennett and Andy Swan have created is a nightmarish... Read more

    The 20 April 2018 by   Ripplemusic
    ENTERTAINMENT, MUSIC

Magazines