As large and wonderful as the world of men’s neckwear is, it’s surprisingly homogenous. There are solids, stripes, checks, paisleys, and a number of small, repeating geometric patterns commonly referred to as Macclesfields. These come in a variety of prints and weaves set into wool, cashmere, cotton, linen, silk, and any kind of blend in between. Despite the number of possibilities that can arise from these just these combinations, men’s neckties – at least those that can be considered in good taste – look somewhat the same from company to company.
There are exceptions, of course. Michael Hill and his team at Drake’s never fail to deliver slightly more unique designs in addition to their classics. Then there are the French houses – such as Hermes, L’escalier d’argent, and Arnys – which make designs that require a certain sense of humor and flair to wear. Battistoni also manufactures something similar in Italy. There are others in addition to these, to be sure, but for the most part, I think it’s fair to say that most neckwear companies are bit more conservative in taste (barring designer fashion and streetwear, obviously).
Recently, however, two Neapolitan brands – Passaggio Cravatte and Antonio Muro – have begun to offer with what one could call “new old stocks.” Meaning, they take vintage fabrics from the 1940s through ‘60s, and use them to make exceedingly beautiful neckties. Lightly lined and individually cut and sewn by hand, these are set apart from their peers by virtue of their more exclusive and unique fabrics. Some are subtle and discrete, while others are bold and bright (bolder, brighter patterns were more commonly worn by Neapolitan gentlemen in the early- to mid-20th century, at least more so than what you’d see today). Both makers also use the regional standard “bottleneck cut,” which means the ties are shaped like the top of a bottle. This differs from the trapezoidal cut you’d find on English neckties, and it allows the necktie to have a slightly longer knot and more width at the top of blade. I think it’s an older school look that only underscores these ties’ Old World character and charm.
Passaggio Cravatte only does bespoke ties, whereas Antonio Muro does both. I don’t know if they sell directly to the public, but you can also purchase Passaggio Cravatte ties through Simon Crompton and Antonio Muro’s through Grunwald.
