A lot of our time in Georgia was spent in the shadows of the Caucasus Mountains, a range which starts in Russia and extends into Azerbaijan. Around the base of Mount Ushba and Mount Kazbek are remote but beautiful areas with stunning snow-capped peaks, rushing rivers and sleepy villages.
The small town of Mestia was our home for three nights. A town filled with ‘Koshki’ (defence towers) and also a developing ski resort, Mestia attracts those with an interest in the history of the Svaneti region and a love for rugged walks with romantic backdrops.
Chalaadi Glacier was our destination for one such walk, which took us about 6 hours from our bush campsite near Mestia. The walk was mostly flat along a dusty road, where we bumped into two guys from the Georgian Army (we discovered later that as we were so close to the Russian border, it’s advisable to carry your passport). Across a swing bridge, through a small pine forest, and then over some large and awkward boulders, we reached the glacier, our spot for lunch where we chilled our drinks in snow, and flew the kite. As well as seeing the glacier, the walk gave us sweeping views of the mountains and the zig-zagging valley we had just walked through.
Near Mestia is the small town of Ushguli, said to be the highest town in Europe (if you consider Georgia part of Europe). A group of us hired two 4WD vehicles and drivers for the day and drove the bumpy, windy and treacherous road through the mountains to Ushguli. Georgia is not renowned for its brilliantly safe and reliable roads, and it’s easy to see why. With unsealed, dusty and pot-holed tracks along sheer-drop cliffs, the trip between Mestia and Ushguli was more like a white-knuckled adventure ride than a leisurely drive. It was worth it however, as Ushguli is a unique little town, like none I’ve ever visited before.
Cows, chickens, dogs, horses, pigs are all tied, styed or penned in close quarters to the houses, and in many cases, able to wander freely. The mix of mud, manure and animal smells was quite overwhelming and it’s hard to think what it would be like when there are heavy rains or melting snow. Sitting behind the town was a hill which gave us amazing views of the houses below and the curve of mountains shrouding around the town.
Further eastward along the Greater Caucasus range is the small town of Kazbegi, now known as Stepantsminda, which we accessed by the Old Military Road, another slightly treacherous and hair-raising route. This road was built to allow access between Russia and Georgia during the old Soviet days. To ensure weapons, supplies and vehicles could transfer unhindered by the snow, large tunnels were developed.
The town of Kazbegi itself, although nothing extraordinary, is one of the closest to the Russian border, and is nestled among mountains and hills with green lower pastures. It is also home to one of the prettiest little churches, Sambea Church. After an incredibly steep and trying 80 minute hike to the top, we reached the Church. While we caught our breath and admired the view, church bells rang behind us, as a full service was underway to celebrate Easter Monday.
That night we camped in the valley near the Thergi River with mountains on either side of us.
The Caucasus Mountains have been an important landmark as well as a formidable impasse for many travellers over the years. For us they were the perfect place to become better acquainted with the art of bush camping, and to get a true taste of the Georgian wilderness.
