I’ve heard many positive things about Pirouette near Les Halles, which is usually not an area known for its fine dining. I went with Lynn last month to check it out but we didn’t have a reservation. We were told they were full that day but recommended reservations next time. The manager pointed us to their new restaurant, Zebulon, near Palais Royal, but it was too cold that day to travel any further.
I reserved a few days in advance this time for 12:30PM. Pirouette is in a free standing building, very unusual for Paris, and is an open loft like space with double height ceilings and windows and a simple décor with warm wood floors, chairs, and tables.
The 20-euro formule, entrée and plat, offered only one starter and a choice of beef or fish for main course. The business/trendy/artsy crowd was mostly French and the dining room filled up quickly. The noise level was high but not unbearable and our table next to the window was a good choice for avoiding some of the noise.
Pumpkin soup with chestnuts is a popular winter staple in Parisian bistros and Lynn and I agreed it was one of the best versions we’ve ever had: so buttery and creamy we sopped up every last drop and we each could have had at least three more bowls full.
Lynn had the fish, egelfin (haddock) with grapefruit and fennel, and she thought it was superb. I had the onglet (steak) garnished with wonderful, succulent Grenaille potatoes. The artful presentation made our dishes even more appetizing and they tasted as good as they looked. Even though we thoroughly loved our two courses, we were still a tad hungry and decided to share dessert.
Even though menus put the cheese course in the dessert menu, I disagree with this concept: cheese is cheese and dessert is dessert and there is no blurring the lines. I wanted to be easy and a gentleman and told Lynn to order whatever she wanted. I was a bit disappointed when she ordered the Ossau-Iraty cheese with a black cherry sauce because I wanted a real dessert, not a wannabe cheese course dressed as dessert. Even the presentation was a dessert wannabe- the cheese was sliced like a wedge of pie and the sauce smoothed over on top, more or less like a cheese cake, with an odd dash of red pepper on the side. Disappointment turned into high approval as the dish turned out to be excellent and equally as good as dessert.
We liked Pirouette so much, we will try out Zebulon next month.
5 rue Mondetour, 75001
Metro: Etienne Marcel
Tel. 01 40 26 47 81
Open Monday to Saturday
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.
Cost: 195 euros per person (about $225)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.
Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com
Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour
