There’s something special about the Japanese fashion industry. Since the end of the Second World War, they’ve imported the same Americana, prep, and workwear classics that dominated the US, but they’ve remixed them in ways that are a bit more imaginative and creative. Over the years, many designers there have told me how they’ve been influenced by second-hand thrift shops, rock ‘n roll music, and streetwear culture. Maybe that explains why their clothes are often classic enough to be easily wearable, but also not so boring as to be business casual.
From now until Sunday, No Man Walks Alone (a sponsor on this site) is offering a 20% discount on all of their Japanese brands. This includes names such as Camoshita, Blue Blue Japan, and Kaptain Sunshine (the photo above is from this season’s Kaptain Sunshine lookbok, and shows the model wearing the washed canvas chore coat). All the eligible brands can be seen on this page and you can get the discount by punching in the code SAKURA upon checkout. Some things from the sale I think are particularly great:
CUTTING IT LOOSE
My idea of comfort these days comes more from cut than construction. After nearly twenty years of the slim-fit trend, I’m ready for fuller-fitting clothes. Trousers that don’t cling to the leg; jackets with plenty of room for movement.
Last season, I bought the Naissance chinos you see above, which admittedly came with a bit of shame. On the one hand, they’re basically a designer version of baggy, double-pleated chinos – something so bad they’re the style signature of Jim Harbaugh and Costco loving dads everywhere. On the other hand, I absolutely love them. They have a carrot cut, which means they’re full through the thigh and sharply taper to the cuff, which lends a slightly more interesting silhouette to basic shirt-and-jacket combos. When worn, I find they lean more towards this photo of Union’s Chris Gibbs than anything that’s actually dad-style.
Naissance has the same cut this season made from a natural pomegranate dye, which gives the chinos a brighter British khaki color. Like last season’s version, the waist has been cleverly designed with an elasticated gore, which makes them supremely comfortable (if you’re between sizes, take the smaller of the two, as the waist stretches). No Man Walks Alone also has “wide slacks” from Fujito, although in photos, the cut looks more comfortably classic than overly wide. The sepia toned image above, shot by Sid Grossman, obviously isn’t of either of these pants, but you know … issa vibe.
CALIFORNIAN CASUAL WORKWEAR
I love this photo of StyleForum member Numbernine, who’s shown wearing a Blue Blue Japan chore coat, white linen shirt, faded blue jeans, and olive colored Vans. The combo looks so natural and comfortable, not overdone like so many things online (the dusty pink house, sunflower yellow glasses, and scruffy white beard also help). The outfit has a relaxed California vibe I find relatable, showing how you can wear Japanese workwear in different ways.
No Man Walks Alone sells the same sashiko coverall jacket. For those unfamiliar, sashiko is both a repairing technique and workwear cloth. In the 19th century, Japanese firemen used to wear sashiko because the thick, hefty fabric was naturally resistant to fire embers when wet. Unless you’re fighting fires today, however, you’ll probably just appreciate it for its unique, almost honeycomb like texture. When dyed with indigo, as Blue Blue Japan offers, the fabric comes in a beautifully rich color that naturally fades over time.
Note, I find Blue Blue Japan to run very small, so considering going up one or even two sizes. Workwear often looks better when it’s a bit looser anyway.
BASIC, BUT INTERESTING KNITS AND OUTERWEAR (BIKO)
This fishing jacket from Naissance is handsomely made from an iridescent, washed cotton-nylon blend. The oddly placed pockets – which are inspired by pockets originally designed for holding mayflies – are a great way to make a basic jeans-and-boots outfit more interesting. A few months ago, a friend of mine described his style as BIKO – Basic, but Interesting Knits and Outerwear – which describes my wardrobe pretty well. Coincidentally, also the name of a solid Tribe Called Quest song, so you know it’s good.
Jackets like this are what I love about Japanese brands. The designs are rooted in classics, but also goofy and fun to wear. As odd as the jacket looks, it’s basic enough to pair with light blue OCBDs and some slim-straight jeans. It’s the kind of thing you can throw on in the morning while relying on the same basics for everything else, making the process of getting dressed a lot easier. See this recent post for more spring-style inspired by the pacific sport of fishing.
SOME OTHER NOTABLES
There are some other notables here and there. I really like this photo of Kyle in Fujito’s Type III denim jacket, which is a style I hadn’t really considered until my co-writer Pete at Put This On did a series on denim jackets. Vintage Levi’s, of course, would be the more affordable option, but this one from Fujito is made from a heavier weight denim that I think would break-in nicely.
I also really like these tops from Kaptain Sunshine and Camoshita – one a v-neck paper-knit pullover, the other a brick-red camp-collar shirt I wish was still available in my size. Both would go well with the sort of “Italian casualwear” companies such as Stoffa and Eidos specialize in. Think: higher rise chinos or trousers with a soft suede bomber.
Finally, Camoshita’s cotton-linen crewnecks look interesting. I’m told they have a relaxed body, slim sleeves, and a unique texture. They come in purple, ochre, gray, and cream. I think the cream or gray ones would be especially nice with green linen shorts and ecru canvas espadrilles this summer. For other Japanese makers, you can see the special page No Man Walks Alone set up for their sale.
