I caught the bus early Saturday morning to meet up with a friend in Sassari. We filled the car with an expensive tank of gas and headed south down SS131 towards the elusive province of Barbagia in the heart of Sardinia. We headed to an ‘open-house’ in the ancient neighbourhood of Toneri, Tonara in the province of Nuoro.
It is here, in the heart of Sardinia, where you can immerse yourself in a world of historical flavours, ancient traditions, narrow alleyways and spectacular views from the surrounding mountains. It’s also here where they make the world-famous torrone but I’m saving that juicy, delicious bit for another post.
Welcome to Autunno in Barbagia
From early September to the beginning of December small towns throughout Barbagia open their doors for tourists and locals alike. It’s a refreshing time to wander ancient alleys and discover a Sardinia from hundreds of years ago. Sampling the local flavours of wine, beer, bread, pizza and the famous torrone (a nought bar made of honey and almonds,) we slowly made our way around this fascinating town.
Streets of Toneri
The homes we visited spoke of hard times past, family gatherings and a mysterious history held deep within the souls of Toneri. The following photo depicts a woman wearing the traditional dress from Toneri.
Food was heavily relied upon by farmers who produced: fruits, vegetables, nuts and meat. For a small town in the heart of Sardinia, the people of Toneri certainly had their bellies full and content.
The Apothecary
A look inside the kitchen of Toneri, Tonara
The inside of the homes were modestly furnished with just the basics: bed, table and chairs, a locally made tapestry of fine detail and a lot of love. Love is the one thing I noticed on my trip to Tonara; the streets, homes and souls of the Tonarei shine with lasting affection. You can see it in every detail from each dress and smile.
Nestled to the right of the bed is a simple setting to say daily prayers.
Every town in Sardinia has a distinct color and design for the traditional dress worn by the men and women. Each dress was hand stitched with patience, care and love.
We finished the day with two glasses of strong, locally made wine; accosted by one of the eager locals and stuffed our faces with freshly made torrone – that was still warm. Oh … the delicious mouth-watering sensation.
Stay tuned for my post on - Torrone from Tonara. A locally made sweet from the heart of Sardinia.
Visit the following website to find more towns in the center of Sardinia where you can taste the flavours that only the heart can offer. Autunno in Barbagia is a must-see and I can’t believe it took me almost six years to get there. I will not wait another six years to return, thank you Tonara you made me fall in love, again.
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© My Sardinian Life/Jennifer Avventura. All rights reserved 2010-2013. All pictures, unless otherwise stated, are property of My Sardinian Life. Do not use without written permission.
