If last year's big summer trend was "tomato girl" - think la dolce vita glamour for the TikTok generation - this year's attention is elsewhere in the Mediterranean. In 2024, we're declaring a "Greek girl summer." If it feels like everyone you know is in Greece this year, you're not alone. With a string of high-profile luxury hotel openings and the resurgence of the Athenian Riviera, the cool set have packed their linens for a week of sun, sea, and feta.
Travel often invites a touch of literal dressing - think neutrals for game drives on safari, and raffia and gingham in Provence. Whether you're visiting the Acropolis for a weekend or island hopping yourself, blue and white stripes, goddess-inspired gold jewellery and wrap sandals will help you ease into the taverna lifestyle.
Alexia Karides, co-founder of Athens jewelry brand YSSO, believes the look is more dominant this year thanks to "years of slow discovery of the 'Greek summer,'" which started with the oversaturation of Mykonos and "expanding the number of tourists to visit the undiscovered parts of Greece." As the founder of a Made in Greece brand, she's noticed that many international labels are also embracing the Greek aesthetic in 2024. "It makes me happy because I see it as an appreciation of our culture. If the brand hasn't researched or fully understood the culture, the audience will realize it's a gimmick and not authentic."
While fashion production isn't huge in Greece, there is a thriving creative scene and a number of brands that embrace local techniques and craftsmanship. "The Greek crisis (which began in 2009) created a wave of local brands whose tenacity and vision resulted in quality products defined by sustainable practices and a focus on traditional local craftsmanship," explains Elis Kiss, editor-in-chief of Vogue Greece.
One of the country's biggest fashion exports is Ancient Greek Sandals, which produces all of its leather sandals in factories in Athens using classic Mediterranean techniques. "We wanted to make sandals that were inspired by Greece, made in Greece," says co-founder Christina Martini. "Our heritage is one of the most important things." According to ancient myths, gods and goddesses had their sandals made in Crete by a maker who added magical powers to each pair, and his signature was a "golden wing" buckle, which now appears on Ancient Greek Sandals.
"Notable is the impressive emergence of a Greek creative jewelry design scene, with strong and distinctive contemporary creative voices," adds Kiss. Fine jewelers include Ileana Makri, Yiannis Sergakis, Nikos Koulis and Lito, while Hermina Athens and YSSO are leaders in the contemporary space.
Adele recently wore a pair of Clos earrings by YSSO, a brand founded by mother-daughter duo Alexia and Stalo Karides, to the semi-finals of Euro 2024. "One of the reasons I was motivated to start the label was discovering the wealth of history and cultural depth that can be found in Greek manufacturing, something that was not known internationally," Alexia explains. "I wanted to create designs that would allow the work of these artisans to reach a global audience." In terms of aesthetics, the sculptural designs fuse modern and ancient references - reflecting Stalo's background as an archaeologist and art historian; "the ethos of accessories" was prevalent in ancient Greece.
"There are strong aesthetic elements that have been carried through since ancient times in modernist Greek design and in contemporary art," Alexia explains. However, she points out that the economic crisis has had a significant impact on creativity in modern Greece, as "a large part of the population left Greece to live all over the world, including myself, and moved to London." This diaspora "collected these multicultural experiences and brought them back home." Kiss reiterates that the Greek ideal remains "an important work in progress, a fusion of the old and the new," although it will always reflect that this is a summer resort destination.
So where are the "Greek girls" heading this summer? There's been a flurry of new luxury hotel openings this year, none more glamorous or Instagrammable than One&Only Kéa Island in the Aegean Sea. The hotel has a small boutique that supports local artists and has collaborated with YSSO on an exclusive capsule, featuring jewellery inspired by ancient coins, ropes and acorns. Gemma Deeks, fashion editor at travel website Citizen Femme, recommends Numo Mykonos, which opened earlier this year, "for a charming boutique vibe that exudes a 60s and 70s allure with iconic design elements that add a playfulness to Mykonos' signature whitewashed, minimalist aesthetic." Then there's Gundari Resort on the island of Folegandros, which opened in May. Deeks describes it as "the epitome of understated, raw luxury" and a "true oasis for deep relaxation."
Athens is now becoming a popular city break destination, rather than just a necessary stopover on the way to the islands by ferry. "There's a bigger arts and crafts scene in Athens, with a creative hub of artists and graphic designers that didn't exist in the past," says Christina Martini. There have also been a number of luxury hotel launches in the city, with places like the recently opened One&Only Aesthesis bringing new attention to this neglected spot on the Saronic Gulf.
Greece has endured heat waves and temperatures of 115 degrees Fahrenheit this summer, so dress lightly or visit in the fall, when temperatures are more bearable. "Stick to crochet or woven textures, linen, neutrals, and pops of blue," Deeks advises. "Keep it minimal and try packing simple ensembles, like white linen co-ords and artisanal separates. Pair your looks with a basket bag and strappy sandals for a safe summer outfit, and add interesting jewelry, like shell-inspired pieces that reference island landscapes." Karides adds that the Athenian look is all about "wrinkled clothes, no makeup, flats (never heels!), and gold jewelry" for dinner, whether you're having a simple gyro or something a little fancier.
Martini runs Ancient Greek Sandals from Corfu, where she says her current "beach to taverna" uniform consists of kaftans (Lemlem is her favorite) and jelly shoes. "My business partner Nikolas' grandfather had a factory in Athens where he made rubber shoes and boots, and in the '50s he made these ballet flats," Martini says of the inspiration behind the flats. "I saw them in a catalogue and he gave me a pair he had and they were perfect, so we recreated them. They used to be very popular with grandmothers in Greece for pebble beaches - they weren't a cool shoe back then." But this summer, fashion editors even wore the flats in London, bringing a touch of Corfu to W1.
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For exploring ancient ruins: printed kaftan and leather Greek sandals
Viscose dress, £460, Lemlem; Leather sandals, £185, Ancient Greek Sandals
Loewe Paula's Ibiza Raffia hat, £495, Net-a-Porter; gold-plated and enamelled chain, £138, Hermina Athens
For the ferry: textured white co-ord, jade necklace + raffia hat
Crinkle top, £249 and skirt, £700, Zeus + Dione
Ileana Makri Gold bead and jade necklace, £1,365, My Theresa; and medium suitcase, £119, Nere Travel
For the tavern: Linen, crochet and rope hanger
Linen dress, £510, Piece of White; Crochet and leather bag, £320, Ancient Greek Sandals
Gold-plated necklace, £290, YSSO; Leather sandals, £295, ME+EM
For the beach: Blue and white stripes, linen boxer shorts + eyelet chain
Lido Ribbed Swimsuit, £204; Net-a-Porter; Linen Shirt, £110
Shorts, £60, with nothing underneath
Jelly shoes, £85, Ancient Greek Sandals; Marianna Lemos gold-plated necklace, £95, Greeks Bearing Gifts