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How to Look Great in Darker Colours During Winter When You Have Lighter Colouring

By Imogenl @ImogenLamport
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How to Wear Medium-Low Contrast in Winter When You’re Light in Value

Winter fashion can be a conundrum, especially if you have a light colour palette. Many of us instinctively reach for dark clothing during the colder months—perhaps because winter feels darker, or because darker clothes can be more practical in snowy, messy conditions. But if you are someone with a light complexion going too dark can be overwhelming and will weigh down your overall look. So, how do you strike the right balance? Here’s how you can create a cohesive winter wardrobe that stays true to your colouring while still being practical and stylish.

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Why Avoid Going Too Dark?

If you fall into the light, value colour property your best colours are often those that reflect light rather than absorb it. Dark shades can look heavy on you and will feel overpowering, creating too much contrast with your natural features. This can detract from your natural radiance and make your outfit look unbalanced. For this reason, the darkest you should aim for is medium-dark rather than choosing very dark colours, such as black or deep brown or navy.

Here I’ve opted for a medium dark blue rather than navy so as not to overwhelm my colouring.

Medium-Dark: The Sweet Spot

The trick is to find that medium-dark shade that provides the practical benefits of a darker garment—like receding in the outfit and being less prone to dirt—without overwhelming your colouring. Medium-dark tones still have enough depth to feel appropriate for winter but remain gentle enough to harmonize with your light and muted palette.Go medium dark rather than really dark colours in your outfits

Imagine opting for a medium charcoal grey instead of black, or a just darker than medium navy. These colours are dark enough to achieve the practicality you need in winter but are not so intense that they overshadow your lighter complexion. It’s about finding that middle ground that feels comfortable for you and complements your natural beauty.  Remember that when you have light colouring, medium dark colours will appear darker on you, so you don’t need to reach for the very dark.

Stepping Through Values for a Blended Look

Now, what if you want to introduce higher contrast, like wearing darker trousers with a light top?

You might worry about the jump in value contrast feeling too harsh.

The solution? Step through the values in your outfit.

Think of your outfit like a staircase: instead of leaping from a light step (e.g., a pale pink top) straight to a dark one (e.g., deep grey pants), add a medium step in between. This could be a mid-tone cardigan or a jacket that acts as the bridge between your light and dark elements.Step through the values from darker to lighter - patterns can be a great way to do this

My pants are medium dark grey check and then the lilac jumper is light – the scarf adds some more medium colours to help step through the values.

By layering in this way—going from light to medium to dark—you create a more harmonious transition that visually blends the contrast, making it appear softer. This technique is especially effective for those with a lower-value contrast, as it prevents the outfit from looking too stark or harsh.

The Staircase Method for Value Contrast

Think of value contrast as a set of stairs. When you walk down the stairs step by step—light to medium-light, then medium, then medium-dark—you create a cohesive flow that feels balanced. This is in contrast to jumping from the top step to the bottom, which can feel abrupt and jarring, especially for someone with a lighter, softer appearance.

How to Understand Value Contrast - the stairs concept - click here for more detailsWhen you step through the values, you’re essentially blending the contrasts, giving the impression of a more cohesive and seamless look. This allows you to incorporate some depth into your winter wardrobe while still staying true to your light, muted palette.

Adapting to Your Environment

Another important consideration is your environment. If you don’t live somewhere with heavy snowfall or a particularly harsh winter, you don’t need to go super dark for practical reasons. In these cases, even a medium shade will look suitably wintery without compromising your overall aesthetic.Wear winter white if you don't live in a snowy area

Because I don’t live somewhere that snows, wearing all light outfits is completely winter-appropriate.  Winter white is a colour for a reason!

Colour perception is highly relative—what appears medium-dark on someone with a fair complexion might look much darker on them compared to someone with a naturally deeper complexion. Always consider how the colour looks against your skin tone and within the context of your environment and wardrobe. You may find that a medium shade looks appropriately dark and still provides that wintery feel without veering into heavy territory.

Conclusion: Practical Tips for Medium-Low Contrast Styling

  • Go Medium-Dark at the Darkest: Avoid super dark colours and opt for medium-dark shades like charcoal, deep grey-blue, or softened navy.
  • Step Through the Values: Layer your outfit to move gradually from light to dark, using intermediate shades to bridge the contrast and create a cohesive flow.
  • Adapt to Your Environment: If your winters are mild, don’t feel pressured to darken your wardrobe too much. Find what works for you and your surroundings while staying within your palette.

By following these simple guidelines, you can create a winter wardrobe that not only keeps you comfortable and practical but also honours your natural colouring. Remember, fashion is not about following rules but about finding what works best for you. So, play with those medium-dark tones, and enjoy creating outfits that feel balanced and true to your style!

Not sure of your value and colouring?  Get your personalised colour palette as well as guidelines on how to put your colours together based on your value and colour contrast as well as your ideal value.

How to Look Great in Darker Colours During Winter When You Have Lighter Colouring

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How to Elevate Your Look with the Right Value Contrast in Patterns

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How to Look Great in Darker Colours During Winter When You Have Lighter Colouring

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