PARIS - The Paris men's and haute couture shows in June are on schedule despite preparations for the 2024 Paris Olympics that will paralyze parts of the French capital from April, organizers said.
In a joint interview, Bruno Pavlovsky, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, or FHCM, and Pascal Morand, its executive chairman, sought to reassure participants despite some remaining uncertainties heading into the final stretch of the planning for the Games, billed as the largest event organized in France.
More from WWD"After several months of discussions, the situation has become clearer and we are optimistic about our ability to do what we need to do during the men's and haute couture weeks in June," said Pavlovsky.
"We're not saying it will be super flexible and easy. We have to adapt. But we say that everyone is doing their best to ensure that all fashion weeks take place in the best conditions for everyone involved," he added.
As reported, French fashion's governing body has pushed back the dates of the autumn 2024 edition of Paris Couture Week to avoid a clash with preparations for the Olympic Games, which will take place from July 26 to August 11, and the Paralympic Games , dated August 26, 2024. September 28 to 8.
Men's fashion week is scheduled for June 18 to 23, while the haute couture shows take place from June 24 to 27. Normally in the summer there is a week between the men's shows and the haute couture week.
The federation has a team liaising with the Paris Police, City Hall, the Organizing Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games and the Inter-Ministerial Delegation for the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, as well as key ministries, as it refines schedules.
While officials warned last year that the city's logistics were becoming increasingly challenging, they were keen to maintain a positive tone about the Olympics, which are being sponsored by luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton to the tune of 150 million euros.
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Anticipation is key, with fashion houses being asked to submit event permit applications to Paris police two months in advance, instead of 15 days earlier, to comply with heightened security measures amid an increased risk of terrorist attacks.
"It used to be that you could decide at the last minute to organize a showroom or event," says Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS.
"It's a bit destabilizing, but I have to say that everyone has done their part so far, and I think the strength of the federation has also been to help everyone adapt to a situation that I understand is not is easy for everyone," he added. .
At least three-quarters of the federation's members have confirmed they will participate in the men's and couture shows and the number is rising, Morand said.
"We are working diligently and systematically on all parameters," he said, citing locations, traffic, safety, hospitality and accessibility as key concerns.
Although organizers have narrowed down the list of possible locations, they are still waiting for the final version of the traffic plan, which will establish security perimeters around venues where competitions will take place.
The Games will transform the city's iconic landmarks into sporting venues, with plans to include building a volleyball stadium at the foot of the Eiffel Tower and hosting BMX and skateboarding competitions at Place de la Concorde.
The opening ceremony on the River Seine is expected to be attended by 326,000 ticket holders, in addition to spectators, with construction starting across the city months in advance.
"There are areas in central Paris that will definitely be more difficult to access. But that said, the door is not completely closed yet," said Morand, adding that the federation is negotiating to secure a centralized location where smaller brands can show.
It will keep its members informed through regular newsletters and will compile information in a guide to be posted on its website, fhcm.paris. There is also a special email address for questions: [email protected].
Officials noted that after an initial spike, rates for hotel rooms and flights appear to have fallen in June. "They are now at a level that is not unreasonable," Morand said.
The government has a strong incentive to protect the fashion sector, which represents 154 billion euros in direct turnover and generates 1 million jobs in France, according to a study published in 2018 by the Institut Français de la Mode.
Pavlovsky said increased coordination with authorities during this period would benefit Paris Fashion Week in the future by allowing better planning and information sharing.
In parallel with the preparation for the Olympic Games, the federation is preparing for the future by reforming its statutes for the first time since 1973, when ready-to-wear designers joined the haute couture houses under the same professional umbrella.
The Executive Committee has unanimously voted to abolish the three branches - the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Féminine and the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine - in order to group all members into a single legal entity under the FHCM. banner.
They will be replaced by three industry committees led by current industry chairs: Sidney Toledano, advisor to LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, for couture; Anouck Duranteau-Loeper, CEO of Isabel Marant, for women's fashion, and Rick Owens CEO Elsa Lanzo for men's fashion.
"This is not just an administrative simplification. We are also preparing for the great challenges of tomorrow," said Pavlovsky.
Streamlining the federation's structure should free up resources to defend members' interests, both in Paris and Brussels, as governments prepare to introduce sweeping environmental regulations. Other key areas include vocational training, labor law, intellectual property and digital services.
"Our role has changed over the past five years. It used to be about managing calendars and exhibition locations. Now that is only a small part of our activities and we are becoming increasingly proactive in the field of major social issues such as sustainability," he says.
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