NOT SO FAST: France has ultra-fast fashion players such as Shein and Temu in its sights with new legislation.
The country's parliament unanimously passed a bill on Thursday that would ban advertising and impose fines on cheap imports into the country. It is the first step before the bill will ultimately be voted on in the country's Senate, although no date has yet been set.
More from WWDIn 2025, a fee would be introduced from 5 euros per item, gradually increasing to 10 euros in 2030, with a maximum of 50 percent of the purchase price of the item.
That money would go to a fund to promote awareness campaigns, advertise the country's recently implemented clothing and shoe repair program and support sustainable clothing brands.
The bill also proposes a ban on fast-fashion advertising, which could put an end to influencers' famous "hauls" of their purchases.
The bill and much of the debate in lawmakers focused on Chinese-Singaporean high-speed fashion giant Shein, citing statistics that the company offers 7,200 new styles a day, with more than 470,000 products available at any time.
The law would assess volumes and speed of production when defining "fast fashion."
Shein countered that the legislation would harm consumers' purchasing power and should not exclude specific businesses. The company said the definition of "fast fashion remains very vague" and should impact all fashion brands.
"We have consistently emphasized that the number of references a retailer offers is in no way a relevant indicator of the company's impact on the environment, while the number of unsold items would be a much better indicator. This betrays a profound lack of understanding of the fashion industry," the company said in a statement to WWD.
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The company said the legislation should be based on sell-through figures, not production volumes, adding that the percentage of unsold clothing is "consistently in the low single digits."
The proposed law targets internet players and specifically excludes brands such as Zara and H&M that have physical stores in the country.
"France is taking the lead when it comes to fast fashion in general. I think the momentum for change in this sector is here," Vestiaire Collective chief impact officer Dounia Wone told WWD. "It means that our voice and the voices of many activists or brands have raised awareness about this issue."
Vestiaire Collective has worked to define fast fashion for its platform, first banning the likes of Asos, Boohoo, Nasty Gal, Pretty Little Thing, Fashion Nova and the now targeted Shein in the first round, and then expanding to high street brands, including H&M, Mango, Uniqlo and Zara last November.
The company launched that initiative alongside a campaign in which major monuments such as the Eiffel Tower are buried under textile waste.
Wone drew parallels between Vestiaire Collective's process of defining the category, which takes into account price, the number of new items a brand brings to market each year, plus the speed of the product cycle, as criteria.
"I'm not saying our definition is the definition. I think this is the starting point where we can rethink the industry and have a lot of people around the table," she said, adding that just taking this first step would likely raise awareness about the environmental costs of overconsumption.
Wone added that next on the agenda is an attempt to reduce VAT on commissions, which will increase prices for second-hand fashion buyers. Such a move would create an additional incentive for buyers and sellers to promote circular fashion. "The linear business model needs to be questioned - the way people interact with fashion: produce [then] waste," she said.
The Circular Fashion Federation, which took part in hearings with MP Anne-Cécile Violland before the bill was submitted, also called the parliamentary vote 'a step in the right direction'.
"However, this is just the beginning of our collective work as we must now work with all stakeholders to clarify the definition of fast fashion and the operational application of penalties and incentives to accelerate the sector's circular and environmental transition," FMC chairman Maxime Delavallee told WWD.
The group plans to monitor the mechanisms being put in place, including promised incentives for companies and consumers who switch their production and consumption models.
"For France to be an influencer, especially in textiles, I never thought I would say that," Wone added.
STRETCH IT: With workout wear being one of the most challenging categories in sustainable textiles, Italian knitwear company Brugnoli has introduced the first collection made with yarns from the new partnership of fiber company Lenzing and Roica, pioneer of stretch yarn Asahi Kasei, to create a to create a new textile portfolio.
The two companies worked together to develop blends of Lenzing's cellulose-based Tencel Lyocell or Modal fibers and Asahi Kasei's Roica fibers into new sustainable and circular textiles. The two yarns are made for the needs of yoga and workout clothing and are Oeko-Tex Standard.
Brugnoli's line, called YogaTime, uses these two ingredients from Lenzing's cellulose-based Tencel Lyocell or Modal fibers and Asahi Kasei's Roica fibers. The two companies are joining forces to create fabrics that have a clear life cycle, creating a circular model for clothing.
"By joining forces with Lenzing AG and integrating Tencel fibers with our Roica V550, we are not just creating textiles; we create an extra choice for the future of sustainable fashion. Our joint efforts will lead to the development of fabrics that not only excel in performance and aesthetics, but also significantly contribute to a more sustainable planet," said Shinohe Hiroaki, Chief Marketing Officer of Roica.
"This partnership embodies our shared vision of a more sustainable textile industry. The recycling potential of Tencel fibers, combined with Roica's innovative stretch-degradable technology, will set a new standard for responsible textiles, offering both brands and consumers a solution closer to a circular approach," said Carlo Covini, business development Italy & Switzerland from Lenzing.
THERMORE DE VOGER: As fashion customers are increasingly spoiled by the comfort of stretch materials, especially in the field of sportswear, Thermore, the Milan-based company for premium thermal insulation for clothing and outerwear, introduces Freedom, a new hyper-stretch filling.
Made from 50 percent post-consumer, GRS-certified, recycled polyester, the product provides warmth and stretch and is best suited for alpine sports, running, golfing, fishing and other outdoor activities.
The company said tests on the dynamometer showed that Freedom - which is available in four heat levels, from 60 to 150 grams per square meter - fully recovers to pre-stretch size after each use. It is machine washable and can be dry cleaned. Easy-care properties that contribute to its versatility.
- With contributions from Martino Carrera The best of WWD
