Conjure up an image of Beverly Hills and what comes to mind? Whitewashed mansions with porched entrances perhaps? Hilly roads crossed by buzzing Teslas and croaking classics? Want to catch a glimpse of the rich and famous? Well, all these things can be found in England's very own Beverly Hills, on the outskirts of London.
Or at least that's what the data suggests. According to research from estate agent Savills, eight of the ten richest boroughs in England - with the highest percentage of house sales over £1 million by 2023 - are in central London. Chelsea top the league (a rare opportunity to use that phrase these days), while Westminster and Camden are second and third.
The only two boroughs on the list that do not have a London postcode are Elmbridge and Mole Valley. So what happens in these neighboring districts, which have one manicured toe in urban society and another in the leafy valleys of Surrey? I spent a weekend there to find out.
A country of kings, A-listers and oligarchs
My weekend in England's Beverly Hills began on the single-track Wey Bridge, which marks the gateway to the Elmbridge district. During my visit the bridge collapsed under the weight of SUVs, but the upper echelons of society have known this corner of the country for some time. In the 16th century, Henry VIII built a palace, Oatlands, in the area. This was a desirable spot given its proximity to the river, which meant the king could board a boat from Westminster or nearby Hampton Court Palace without having to cross the sometimes impassable roads.
The castle was occupied by future monarchs before being demolished in the 17th century, but the local community continued to grow. In 1890 Weybridge became the first town in England to be lit entirely by electricity, although locals were unhappy with the unsightly overhead cables so the local authority soon switched to gas. Perhaps the moment that cemented Elmbridge's prosperity was the opening in the early 20th century of the St George's Hill estate, home to some of the most extravagant houses England has ever seen.
The story continues
St George's Hill was the vision of a local builder, Walter George Tarrant, who bought the land in the 1910s and 1920s, selling plots to celebrities and entrepreneurs, as a kind of paradise 'leisure estate' away from the ever-expanding capital. The 964-acre, gated community has been home to superstars from John Lennon to Kate Winslet, Jenson Button to Elton John.
I am fortunate to have wandered the grounds a few times visiting friends (who, I should add, lived in one of the few cottages on the estate), and can report that some of the buildings, such as the Grade II The Grade II listed art deco Hamstone House resembles palaces rather than mere mansions. As for celebrity spotting? A difficult task when all cars have darkened windows. But they are definitely there.
So far, so Beverly Hills. Although the exclusive estate, like its Californian counterpart, also houses Russian oligarchs. As many as a quarter of the 430 houses are reportedly owned by Russia, many of which now stand empty following Putin's invasion of Ukraine and the resulting reciprocal travel ban between Britain and Russia. No wonder, then, that a group of security guards question all arrivals and politely turn you away if you're not golfing or visiting a resident.
Lacking a gilded invitation to the St George's Hill Estate, a walk east along the River Wey from Wey Bridge offers the chance to peek into the immaculately manicured gardens of the opulent riverside homes. Indeed, you could spend a whole day exploring the towpaths of the River Wey and Godalming Navigations, but for a taste of the finer things in life it's just a short drive south to Elmbridge's sister district: the Mole Valley.
A glimpse into high society
After crossing the M25 I arrived in the Mole Valley, much of which lies within the Surrey Hills "National Landscape" (modern parlance for an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). This is a landscape of blossoming vineyards with sparkling wine and vertiginous hills; Leith and Box offer the best viewpoints in the area. But the place to people watch and be seen is Beaverbrook. The hotel is one of the most exclusive country retreats in Britain and is named after its former owner, the politician, publicist and newspaper baron Lord Beaverbrook, who bought the property on a whim while out driving with his friend Rudyard Kipling (just like you) .
As you are led through the heavy doors of Beaverbrook you get a glimpse into a bygone era of English high society. In the Gatsby-esque Sir Frank's Bar, sipping an old-fashioned cocktail and looking out over the hotel's tiered gardens, I overheard a conversation between two guests. Inevitably they exchanged notes over cigars. Elsewhere on the estate, guests can enjoy a treatment at the high-end spa or a tour of the golf course - believed to be one of the best in the country - which has an annual membership fee of £100,000.
Once you've chosen a room, the temptation will be to stay there and temporarily embrace the pretense of being part of the 0.01 percent. But there is a lot to discover in England's Beverly Hills. So from your bedroom - the Churchill room perhaps, or the Macmillan room - you might want to decant your free glass of Sipsmith sloe gin, find your free pad and pen and write up a to-do list consisting of some of the following:
A walk in a special park
Many Londoners have never heard of Painshill, which is a travesty considering it is only 15 miles from zone one. This 18th century landscape garden was created by the eccentric MP Charles Hamilton. Inspired by his two 'grand tours' of Europe, he commissioned a series of follies to populate his grounds, situated around a serpentine lake dotted with small islands.
Many of its original (fake) buildings have been restored, including a Gothic temple, the ruins of an abbey, a Roman mausoleum, a mock Ottoman tent and a limestone cave - each as brilliantly whimsical as the other, and some of which can be seen in the television programs Married at first sight And Bridgerton. They are currently raising money for the restoration of the Chinese Bridge, which you can donate to here if you wish (admission £12.10 adults, £6.60 children).
A day out with the children
If you do not have a child between the ages of one and fourteen, you can and should politely skip to the next part of the article. But if your weekend in Beverly Hills, England, does leave you with horrors, Bocketts Farm is an exceptional place to exhaust them. Farm animals, go-karting, soft play, a tractor ride, slides, trampolines and a pig race (including a participant named "Jack Squealish") make this a guaranteed win. The only downside is the entrance fee: £17 for adults, £18.50 for children aged three to seventeen and £16.50 for children aged two to three. Fortunately, children under the age of two can enter for free.
Dining with a Michelin star
For a special occasion, look no further than Sorrel's Michelin-starred restaurant in Dorking. When The Telegraph When Michael Deacon visited, he wrote in his five-star review: "I suppose you could call the food at Sorrel British, but really any categorization is pointless because every dish is so inventive. A brilliant, brilliant meal. if you really want to pay money for something special, this is the place to go." Sold.
Where to drink
Forget flashy wine bars. Here you go straight to the source. The Surrey Hills are home to some of the country's best vineyards, including the largest single estate vineyard in Denbies. It offers a versatile experience, with three restaurants to choose from (including an informal canteen) and Denbies' fine wines are sold in the well-stocked gift shop and farm shop.
The award-winning Orange Solaris wine has been a bestseller, says company CEO Christopher White during a tour of the estate. There are other vineyards in the area that are well worth a visit, including Greyfriars, Albury, High Clandon and Chilworth Manor, and in good weather you can hire bikes from Denbies.
Where to stay
If you go big, which is certainly the case in the Beverly Hills of England, it's Beaverbrook or nothing. The estate is family friendly and has an exceptional on-site children's club, run by Sharky and George. Dinner, bed and breakfast packages start from £633 per night, based on two adults sharing a room. If you still have room for dinner after lunch at Sorrel and all that orange wine at Denbies, you can choose between the less formal Garden House (try the Dover sole) or the Dining Room, which has the best sushi this side of Shinjuku is served.
