photo :Steven Depolo
Eisenstadt in the Austrian province of Burgenland – which borders Hungary – was the home of the Esterházys, former Hungarian nobility. It’s also where you’ll find a piece of Athens in Austria, the Esterházy Gloriette.
Eisenstadt
Austria’s smallest provincial capital is Eisenstadt, the former seat of the Esterházy dynasty. The Esterházy family were the sovereigns of neighbouring Hungary, from whom the Habsburg’s in Austria wrested control of this Burgenland borough.
It lies on a plain above the river Wulka, approximately 12 kilometres from the Hungarian border. The name means Iron City and was first recorded in 1118. It was the main centre for the iron trade and iron mining in the area.
The city’s most interesting history dates from around the 14th century, when a wall was built round its limits and a fortification constructed on the site where the Esterházy castle now stands. In 1388 when the wall was started, it also became a market town.
The 15th century saw much swapping of the city between the Hungarians and the Austrians under the overall rule of the Habsburg Holy Roman Emperors. In the 17th century it was captured by the invading Turks, who held it until the Esterházys regained control. In 1648, it became a Royal town and Schloß Esterházy was built.
Esterházy Gloriette
In the late 19th century, Prince Nikolaus ΙΙ Esterhâzy had the Gloriette built as a dedication to his wife, Maria Hermengild. It’s in the style of a Greek temple and is partially built into the side of the mountain. The family used it primarily as a hunting lodge.
Although perhaps not as well known as the Gloriette at Schloß Schönbrunn in Vienna, the Esterházy Gloriette is well worth a visit – especially as in 2012 it had an extra attraction added. A panoramic viewing platform was opened.
The Parthenon
Probably the best known of Greek temples, is the Parthenon in Athens. This was dedicated to the Greek Goddess, Athena, who was the virginal patron of the city. She was viewed as the embodiment of wisdom, courage, inspiration and justice. She was also the shrewd companion of the demi-gods (those who sat nearest to God) and symbol of heroic behaviour. Athena protected Athens.
The purpose a the Parthenon and other Greek temples, was to be a place for the people to leave their gifts and thanks for the care bestowed upon them by the Gods. A good example is the leaving of crutches at Lourdes by those whose mobility has been restored.
The Esterházy Protector
You can’t help but be struck by the similarities between the dedication of the Parthenon to Athena and Nikolaus’ choice of a Greek temple design for the Gloriette at Esterházy, which he dedicated to his wife.
Was it that he viewed her as a Goddess?
Or was he the demi-god?
Given that the Esterházy family had fought furiously to retain the city in Hungary and – even after its passing into Austrian hands – had held a presence within its walls, it’s perhaps not unreasonable for Nikolaus to have had a somewhat elevated perception of his own importance.
But let’s not judge him too harshly. He was after all a benevolent man. He used his immense wealth – greater than that of the ruling Roman Emperors – for the benefit of others. As well as buying himself diamond studded coats!
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