Penang welcomed me on Christmas Day but let's skip past that day of drunken behavior because I wanted to serve 'George Town Realness!' For one island, Penang embodied the term 'melting pot' because features of British, Chinese, Malay and Indian elements were being served like never before! Sure, Penang's British Colonial past drew me to the island but I won't lie! No!
Captain Francis Light, who? Yes, that British seafarer established Pennag as the first British settlement in Southeast Asia in 1786. Part of the 'British East India Company, George Town became a new 'Free Port' for the British to fashion for their own personal gain. Yes, I am British but baby it had nothing to do with me! Exchanging trade both as export and import, Britain's influence saw Penang thrive as a vital 'entrepôt' akin to Hong Kong or even Singapore. Cut to the feeling, Christmas Night had been wild and the hangover hurt badly but I left my Penang hostel in order to find George Town's colonial sites from those days of British rule, I was determined to see what I wanted! Clocking a fire station, I tried to tick off those Art-Deco buildings because they reminded me of the United Kingdom apart from the weather. Talking of 'Art Deco' because a former 'Overseas Indian Bank' caught my attention, I loved the 1930's architecture with the white-washed shade of white with those intricate details clear to see. There's more for me to tell!
George Town's row of chambers and former banks had me looking closely, those British styles looked well preserved. It looked as if a certain effort had been made to safeguard such British Colonial buildings with the governments money propping up several new projects. 'Victoria Street' suggested that a certain British monarch still had certain things named after her in Penang? Queen Victoria still had her own clock tower in the round for all of those cruise ship passengers to see at their disembarkation point. City Hall she better did! I loved that Padang looking view, both former cricket field and British looking place of administration looked mighty regal to me. How did those subjects deal with the heat during those days of British rule in Malaysia? I say that because the humidity was killing me! Reminding me of Singapore, I recognised a shared reminder of a British past, sure the 'Esplanade' embodied 'G&T's' on the deck! Swettenham Pier, well it did scream out another British sounding name! Definitely, PEN!
Fort Cornwallis, or not? I said that because I was almost denied entry to that former 'Bastion Fort!' Honestly, the first guy who was based at the entrance tried to refuse my Malaysian Ringgit paper notes! COVID is done my friend, I was like why? I said, respectfully why couldn't I pay with cash because I don't use my plastic when I'm outside of Mainland China. Thankfully, the guy realised that the whole situation wasn't that deep! The second guy, he was based at the gate, he was cool because he didn't even check my ticket. Serving cannons and former fire power, I had to stand behind those stone walls with the perimeter land in view because that was my British duty! You know I wasn't that serious, it's all about learning that history wasn't always kind. Built by the 'British East India Company' in 1786 and was in use for 95 years in total, talk about 238 years of history in one fortification. I wanted to know who actually took possession of Penang? As if someone could take possession of a place? That's a bombastic and muggy move!
Let's not give Capatin Light yet more airtime? No! He was the individual who snatched Penang from the 'Sultan of Kedah!' Swift action was taken to protect their British fragility with the immediate construction of Fort Cornwallis, now it figured why the Padang and City Hall both overlooked the fort! I definitely noticed the military style within the grounds served 'Battalion Realness!' No, I didn't want to look deeper into the finer points because Malaysia has been independent for a while and those days remain merely in architectural form and linguistically speaking. I saw a statue of what looked like a former Caucasian figure of a man, was that of Captain Fran Light? Apparently, no record of his form stood when the statue was sculpted so they used the image of his brother! A sure family resemblance? I don't know about that! My visit to Fort Cornwallis was purposeful, I snatched those facts and stood for none of them as a Brit! Enough about those British and their ways, I wanted to learn about a Chinese flavour! Let's go!
I already knew that Penang boasted a majority Malaysian Chinese community with an long history on the island. After doing some post-trip reading, I found out that as of 2020, Penang's Chinese demographics totaled up to 45% of the general population. Impressive as further reading also revealed to me that since the 15th century, Chinese sailors always clocked Penang on their navigation. The Hokkien majority heard that Penang boasted vast opportunities, they largely migrated to Penang from places such as Fujian Province on the Chinese Mainland. I had heard about 'Chew Jetty', I didn't know much about that 'free' point of interest but as one of Penang's cultural relics, it deserved a visit! I was done with the British side, I walked along Victoria Street from Fort Cornwallis, I was there greeted by my intended destination with an abundance of tourists in my view. Divided by clan surnames, the former water-based stilt settlements served different families who had migrated from the said Mainland regions. 非常好!
I had clocked the period Chinese buildings throughout George Town throughout my time spent in that tourist honeypot. I was impressed by the 'Peranakan Mansions' that I had noticed inland from Chew Jetty. It was evident to see several shrines and temples pertaining to the Chinese community in Penang, I noticed them and appreciated them as much as the mosques and temples that were in the same area. Now, I only enjoyed one plate of Chinese food during my visit to Penang because I had a lot of things to try and wanted to keep it fair. I really loved the rich Chinese history in Penang, I left the more popular streets alone because the majority of the tourists had claimed them and I didn't need to be frogmarched along those busy streets, they didn't mix with those recurring Penang hangovers I kept experiencing! Definitely, an essence of Hainan Island and Fujian Province were being served but with a Malaysian twist! Tamil & Hindu influences? Oh, I went mad for some 'Nasi Tandir' on the double! I made mine a Masala chai!
I needed sustenance because my hungover self needed something to keep me from totally crashing, I knew that a Tamil introduced local dish had to be found! 'Little India' held on, I needed something with a little spice and some rice! Ordering a serving of 'Nasi Tandir', naan bread and a Masala chai felt like a blessing, I won't go into the debacle I had at that simple restaurant in Little India because crucially I got my food eventually and it all tasted amazing. I loved the warmth and colours served within that compact corner of George Town, I had love for Little India. My first interaction with a Hindu temple had been at Kuala Lumpur's own Batu Caves, I was able to see inside another 'place of worship' in Penang's Little India. I was able to have a gander inside 'Sri Mahamariamman Temple', you already know that those colourful statues impressed me much! Of course, I needed something sweet to eat to bring my energy levels up. So, would I be able to find something? Firstly, I wanted to catch those dusk settings!
I didn't fancy anything sweeter than a Gulab Jaman or so, I opted for a sit down affair in that 'down to earth' establishment. I chose to enjoy an Indian ice cream, known as 'Kulfi', I very much enjoyed that sweet treat that was served in a small clay-pot. I was honestly spent after seeking that slice of cultural adventure in Penang, the situation was getting critical with that hangover in full-session. Was I out of my mind? That Penang hangover had a lot to answer for! Little India was ace and it has fully reinforced that I must return to the Indian Sub-continent in the very near future! Penang didn't come for free because her vast diversity spanned a whole world on one small island, I was truly captivated! From those British remnants and fortifications, I was ready to clap back with my British nationality judging. Chinese culture Penang style impressed me, showing me something closer to my second home. Calling me back to something spicy, I thanked Little India for reigniting my fire to make that Indian comeback!
Penang Kept It Cultural!
Desperately Seeking Adventure
