Carmos Boutique Hotel is located in northern Portugal, 5 km from Ponte de Lima, (the oldest village in Portugal) and is set in a very rural area. Circumstances that only assisted in being considered by the prestigious Condé Nast Traveller as one of the best new hotels in the world in 2013. I love the "back to the Portuguese roots " approach to welcoming guests that this region and its people have embedded in their blood. With this in mind I take up the hotel's invitation and spend a sunny end of winter weekend as their guest.
I am welcomed in a warm and graceful manner by young Nancy, dressed in a traditional costume of Minho. After all we are in the North of Portugal !
The check in expedite and professional as one would expect from Small Leading Hotel. I am assigned a prestige room, located on the entrance floor. The room has plenty of light (which I greatly appreciate) and is richly decorated. Its size is a very suitable 35 sqm. Overlooking the curtain of the large window, I note that the room overlooks the hotel car park, surrounded by gardens and large trees. I am concerned about the noise but soon I realize that the room is well soundproofed.
I decide to access the back of the hotel to find a large area of landscaped gardens and an outdoor pool. The space is large and here you can see the surrounding mountains, so characteristic of this region. Beds, tables, chairs scattered randomly by green turf give a romantic touch to the scene.
Observing the décor of the hotel, I initially get a strange feeling as if I am caught in the middle of a style prop up. It results from a mix of styles, shapes and textures within a building of raw concrete walls. Ah... I know. Its Boho... In exploring the central building and am acquainted with the owner and manager, Raquel do Carmo Barbosa. She is affable and of simple manners. I tell her that would like to know the history of the Carmos Boutique Hotel and she kindly invites me to dinner, mentioning that she will be delighted to tell me all about it. We kept a lively conversation, accompanied by a meal prepared by Chef Catarina Barbosa. The hotel's restaurant features as a recommended establishment in the 2014 and 2015 Michelin Guides.
The menu consists of 3 starters and 8 mains - 4 fish and 4 meat. All are traditional Portuguese and local cuisine delicious offers. I opted for a tasting of cod flavours as a starter and a rump steak in bed mushrooms with basil purée as a main dish. To accompany the meal, a local wine, Albariño (Muralhas de Monção) 2013 was recommended. For dessert a pineapple carpaccio. The food turned out to be simple but well prepared with a big focus on local ingredients.
During dinner, Raquel told me that the hotel had been for nearly 3 years. The result her mother's (Maria do Carmo) passion for being an excellent host. They then commissioned the project to the architect Carvalho Araújo, who opted for construction of a building in concrete, with straight and contemporary lines. A trademark of the Porto School of Architecture. Usually these projects have minimalist characteristics, and the décor made within this line of thought. Contrary to this trend, the owners opted for something completely different (the Boho style) with a bold and eclectic arrangement of objects, sculptures, paintings and many more elements, thus combining vintage and contemporary pieces.
The result is a seemingly confused and nothing minimalist space, which combines the vintage with the modern. It is aesthetic functional, making you feel a quiet, cosy and intimate atmosphere. One can almost forget that we are in a hotel easily. The furniture and decorative items carry memories of moments lived and full of family memories. The large room is filled with books, silverware, lamps, candles and candlesticks, artwork, pillows, blankets and rugs, with a wide variety of materials and colours.
The second day starts with the best feeling of all! The sensation of a good night's sleep in extremely comfortable mattress. I jump out of bed and head in for a hot bath. The amenities and towels are of good quality and unpretentious (bonus points here). Breakfast is served in the living and dining room. I choose a table by the window to enjoy the morning sun. Breakfast is served on order. They ask me if I want eggs, pancakes or fresh cheese. I opt for scrambled eggs. Breakfast is varied and fresh produce. As for me the most important meal of the day, I did not miss anything. Particularly liked the carob bread, made at the hotel.
Today the day will be full with a carriage ride through the village of Ponte de Lima and a relaxing massage in Divine Spa.
Disclaimer: I was a guest of Carmos Boutique Hotel during my stay in Ponte de Lima. All text and opinions are my own are own. Rates from 250€ per night (breakfast included) for the Prestige room in which I stayed in. Carmos Boutique Hotel details: https://www.carmosboutiquehotel.com/I meet up with Filipe at Ponte de Lima for a chariot tour of the village. The tour is about 30 min and goes through the old town, crossing the Roman bridge over the river that gives name to the municipality. About halfway through the tour Filipe offers me some Loureiro green of the region. Surround me people in a slow pace, I take full advantage of this fantastic winter sun. Now yes, I am on vacation. I remember my childhood memories of this region, where I used to spend summer vacations at a nearby village called Village Green.
Back at Carmos Boutique Hotel, I quickly get changed and head out to the Divine Spa for the promised relaxing massage. Situated on the ground floor, the Devine Spa combines functionality with carefully decorative pieces. Unlike many Spas I know, this has its own identity, combining works of art and large sofas, a dreamlike environment. A unique feeling is of being in a living room where the pool and the jacuzzi are integral parts of the decoration.
I am attended by a young therapist dressed in a long robe, trimmed in gold and with a ribbon on the head. Like a Greek goddess! The massage is preceded by an entire aromatherapy ritual. I feel transported to another dimension and relaxation is almost complete. I say "almost" because the soundproofing of the massage room is not very appropriate to the function of space, hearing the jacuzzi motor noise each time a client uses it. Time goes by unnoticed, and the 30 minutes feel like 30 seconds. My own relaxation time continues in my room and I fall asleep for an hour.
I wake up hungry and decide to dine again at the Carmos Boutique Hotel restaurant. The menu is different from the previous day, letting me know that it is a daily changing menu. My choices for tonight are the Alheira de Caça (Game sausage) in a bed of greens and a quail egg as a starter. For main I choose grilled squid with shrimp and lemon sauce. The wine for tonight is a green wine (Quinta do Ameal 2013) produced from the Loureiro grape . For dessert mint ice cream with hot chocolate. The meal has proved to be at the level of the previous day. Strong and spicy flavours, and the Portuguese taste.
Final evaluation of Carmos Boutique Hotel
Carmo Boutique Hotel (Small Luxury Hotels of the World group) lives up to its rating. This is an infrastructure of 5 stars with 15 rooms (12 prestige rooms and 3 suites), a restaurant and a Spa and Aromatherapy. It also offers a wide range of activities and experiences outside of the property. My top recommendation goes to the Divine Spa.
Guests feel like owners of this space. This is perhaps the aspect that differentiates the Carmos boutique Hotel from other hotels of this category. The staff is made up of very young people, smiling and professional. I definitely recommend this hotel to anyone wanting tranquillity in a chic and romantic atmosphere in a very rural region, full of history and friendly people, renowned for its cuisine and fine wines.
