The beautiful Cartagena de Indias is described as the pearl of the Caribbean Sea. The city has a well-deserved reputation for great food, music and crystal clear waters, making it a must-see for any visitor to Colombia.
And for anyone looking for a little peace and relaxation, Amarla is the place to go. A small boutique hotel (it has just six rooms) par excellence, it combines affordability with luxury in a way that has made it a favorite for new and returning travelers.
Where?
In terms of location, Amarla is unbeatable: hidden in the maze of winding old streets in the center of Cartagena, just a stone's throw from some of the city's biggest tourist attractions (including the iconic city gates of Torre del Reloj), and yet You wouldn't be able to tell how quiet it is inside.
More importantly, it's just a hop and skip away from the city's best food and drink: the award-winning Celele, Candé and Alma restaurants are less than a fifteen-minute walk away, while the trendy bar Alquimico (itself a must-visit) -to for its rather crazy cocktail offering) is a two-minute walk away. In other words, there's no excuse not to make the most of what the city has to offer during your stay in Amarla.
Style
Like most buildings in Cartagena's city center, the hotel is housed in a beautiful mansion dating back to the 18th century and which still retains much of its old-world charm.
As you step inside, the first sound that greets you is the dripping water from the numerous water features spread throughout the open atrium. The space is lined with benches, the work of local artists and the center is dominated by two enormous native trees that extend through the open central space to the top floor.
It's a paradise with whitewashed walls and peaceful, open spaces for relaxing, making it a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle outside.
Upstairs the chic design continues: Amarla's motto is a lot of quiet luxury, which means silk bathrobes hanging in the bathroom, beds so soft you sink into them and always attentive staff who are just as willing to hang up any clothes that are on the floor. floor (which was embarrassing to me), because they have to give advice on what to do in the city.
Facilities
As this is an old building there isn't much room for amenities such as a gym or spa - too bad. In-room massages can be organized for guests. But maybe it's just an excuse to sit back and relax on the beautiful rooftop.
After a long, sweaty day of sightseeing, a dip in the pool is the perfect antidote to the heat. It is surrounded by city views, as well as numerous sun loungers and shady corners where you can relax and read your holiday book. In addition, there is a bar upstairs; what's not to like?
And if you'd like to dive straight into Colombian culture, Amarla is the place for you: the hotel offers salsa dancing lessons, rum tastings and cooking classes (anyone fancy a cigar rolling session?) which can be booked through the head office desk.
Eat Drink
If you're a coffee lover, be sure to try the hotel's brew, which makes the most of Colombia's vibrant coffee scene. Ask for the pour-over; it's how the locals drink it - or better yet, sign up for an in-house coffee tasting.
The breakfast is a feast for the eyes: piles of sliced local fruit served with chia seeds, local food including arepas (fried corn flatbreads), with eggs and spicy salsa, and the standard brunch options - avocado grows naturally here, making my regular morning order of avocado on toast significantly reduces feelings of guilt. And yes, it really does taste better.
The hotel also offers lunch and dinner, most of which lean heavily on Colombian cuisine, with lots of rice, plantain fritters and freshly cooked fish.
And for those fancying a night out, there is also the option to book a romantic meal for two and dine on the hotel's picturesque rooftop, surrounded by the bustling cityscape and glittering swimming pool. Life could be worse.
Extracurricular activities
What are you waiting for? Get out there and explore! As one of the most vibrant cities in Colombia, Cartagena unapologetically flaunts its beauty. A walk through the old city center and the adjacent Getsemani district is a must - just to enjoy the old buildings and beautiful colors.
The staff at Amarla provided us with a full list of recommended restaurants, bars and shopping locations upon arrival, promising to book whichever ones we liked for the night. The city is a culinary hotspot for foodies. Celele ( celelerestaurant.com) and Cande ( restaurantecande.com), located just down the road, serves refined, high-quality versions of Colombian cuisine.
It is also definitely worth taking a trip to La Cevichería ( lacevicheriacartagena.com), popularized by Anthony Bourdain in his TV show No Reservations. The octopus in peanut sauce is highly recommended. And La Cocina de Pepina is a no-frills local favorite, serving classics like shrimp rice served with local fruit juices and viche, a Colombian liqueur.
If you're looking to venture further afield, Cartagena is on the Caribbean Sea, and a day trip to the Rosario Islands is a must. Departing from the city's bustling harbour, it's an hour's journey by speedboat to one of several remote hotels, where you can go snorkelling, diving or simply relax on a beautiful beach before heading back in the evening (expect approximately €90 per person).
Best for
While Amarla's Panama location is adults-only, the same is not true in Cartagena; and we saw a family of four enjoying the upstairs pool during our stay. That said, the limited size of the rooms means it might be a bit cramped for more than two people.
The hotel is perfect for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle, or at least have a quiet place to return to after a busy day of sightseeing.
Which room?
With only six rooms under the roof (the age of the house also means that these rooms are quite small), competition for the best rooms is fierce - the hotel is regularly booked months in advance.
But if you can, choose one of the larger rooms. At the top of the pile is the Parakeet, a split-level room tucked into the hotel's rafters. There is a mezzanine floor with a king-size bed, as well as a cozy library room with sofas, books galore and a TV, ideal for relaxing after a long day of sightseeing.
