A Look at the Origins of the Gansey Sweater

A gansey (or guernsey) is a hardwearing, hand knitted, woolen sweater, which has been worn by fishermen around the coast of Britain for many years and whose style is still processed today in everyday fashion.

Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands in the English Channel near the French coast, and is a self-governing British Crown dependency. The island has a long history, dating back many centuries. The knitting industry of Guernsey Island goes back to the 15 ^th century, when a royal grant was obtained. Thus, wool from England started to be brought to the island where it was turned to knitted goods that were then exported to Normandy and Spain.

The gansey sweater was a garment developed on this island and became a staple of fishermen, as they required a hard-wearing, warm and comfortable garment that would withstand the spray of the sea. Gansey pullovers are made from a tightly spun 5-ply worsted wool (popularly known as "Seamen's Iron"), which is knitted in one piece on five steel needles. The patterning on the back and front and sometimes the upper part of the sleeve, which characterizes the style, provides an extra layer of protection. Moreover, the combination of seamless construction, fine wool and tight knitting resulted in a garment that is simultaneously wind and waterproof. Indeed, each part of the garment is designed with practicality in mind.

The wool from which gansey jumers are made is knitted very tightly, with the purpose of "turning water". The lack of seams leads to a greater impermeability and strength; the underarm gusset allows the wearer freedom of movement. At the same time, the lower sleeves where most wear is sustained, are left plain so the worn part can be unravelled and re-knitted, which makes the sweater very long-lasting. The patterning across the chest and back serves not just a stylistic purpose, but it provides extra insulation as well. Because the pattern is the same on both sides, the gansey is reversible, so that parts which come in for heavier wear, such as the elbows, can be alternated.

Gansey sweaters were traditionally knitted by the fishermen's wives and the pattern was passed down from mother to daughter through the generations. Making ganseys was also a business, as many families supplemented their incomes by making these jumpers. It took an average of 84 hours to complete a sweater - more elaborate styles took more, while designs that were simpler, took rather less. The effort was in many cases worth it; as such a sweater would last for decades and was even passed down through generations. As a fun fact, ganseys that were made for children were made larger, so that the child can grow up and wear the same pullover.

In time, the different communities that adapted the gansey around the British Isles developed their own gansesys, which were all based on the original pattern. Newer versions became more complex, as the stitch patterns became more intricate. Apparently, the most complex style appeared in the Scottish fishing villages. In Cornwall alone, twenty-four principal patterns have been identified, each one drawing inspiration from ropes, chains, waves, nets and sand-prints. Each style has its own name and particularities.

Generally, looking at the gansey styles, there are two types of this sweater: one is a "working" gansey and the other is a "finer" type. The latter was worn on occasions or as Sunday attire. This makes in many ways gansey sweaters a part of the cultural heritage of the British Isles. The work style was simpler in design, as it was supposed to be practical and to use little materials (in the past, materials were a lot rougher and heavier than today, so adding too much bulk to a piece would result in a really impractical garment). The fine ganseys were often made by women who were going to get married, and who wanted to show society who they were through the style and workmanship they put in their fiancées' sweaters. In other words, there was a strong social hierarchy meaning to the sweaters as well. No wonder in the 19 ^th and 20 ^th century, these jumpers were highly popular.

Fishing sweaters spread widely and many other countries adapted them. Today, they have entered in the fashion world as well and are worn by many men (and women alike), not just by sailors. Their tough style with a soft twist is enjoyed by many as they make great autumn or winter pieces.

Stylewise, ganseys are very versatile pieces: you can wear them with dress pants or with jeans, you can wear them with a coat or throw on a sporty vest when taking a hike. They are indeed really amazing pieces that, if they fit well, add structure to a man's look. Ganseys come today in almost all colors and styles, which makes them even better.

The gansey sweater is a great example of how an item charged with practicality and symbolism became a fashion staple that is a clear reference to an old, rough past.

Fraquoh and Franchomme

Further reading:

A beginner's guide to men's sweaters How to wear sporty men's sweaters: 10 tips

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