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2018’s List of Top-Rated Subwoofer Systems for Single Cab Trucks!

By Kencoul

Subwoofers are the thrum in your body; you don't hear these frequencies as much as you feel them. That is why a powerful subwoofer will be "felt" even at great instances. They are disturbances in the air, and without a good subwoofer, the music loses its depth.

Custom fit subwoofers are not an issue, there are many makes and brands, and in most cases, they are very good. However, as with any product, you need to appreciate quality into your equation, so you get a clear, filtered vibration and not a static-filled cacophony. Remember, your body feels these wavelengths more than your ear hears them, this means that a good frequency, with clear wavelength, will make you feel good.

We have compiled a list of the best ten subwoofer boxes and systems that will fit into most single cab trucks, and you can go rigging along with any sound, enjoying that deep thrum in your bum!

The main features we look for are frequency response, which must be between 20 to 200 HZ and Sensitivity, which should be above 88dB for an above average sound level per 1 Watt of power.

Here are the best Subwoofer Systems:

Specifications

This is a nice tight package delivering an above average sensitivity level and great frequency range. This subwoofer sits in a 12" truck box, its dimensions are 20" width x 15" height and the mounting depth is 5 5/16".

Specifications

This is a dual 2-Ohm system that handles peak power of 400Watts RMS to 800Watts peak power and comes with a lower frequency level of 26Hz. This model comes with a Boss 1100-watt Class A/B monoblock amplifier which helps boost the just below average sensitivity all the way up and over.

Specifications

If its output power you want, then the Kicker 10TC104 10″ Ported Truck Enclosure with 1 Comp Subwoofer gives you above average and into the low high dB levels of sound. Combine this with its exceptionally designed box, and you are in for a-shakin' and vibratin' ride.

Specifications

If one subwoofer is not enough to rock your boat, then this double 10" subwoofer enclosure will blow your body away. It comes with a 1,100Watt amplifier so that the two combined speakers will deliver a maximum punch.

Each speaker delivers 86.2 dB. However, when paired up and amplified you will need more than your safety belt to stay in your seat. This is a 4-Ohm system, and the power handling is 300Watts RMS for the pair, with a 600Watt peak.

Specifications

No matter what cab you have, this system is designed for you, and it's not just any system. This one comes with two 12" subwoofers that deliver a whopping 600Watts peak power (350W RMS) of the high-quality frequency with a very wide range and an excellent sensitivity. Basically, this one responds to minor adjustments that will take you from reality into fantasy without using a bong.

Some system should be certified as crazy by the DOT, and this is one of them. This model comes with a Sub Boxes Truck Dual 12″ Subwoofer Unloaded Enclosure Box and two Harmony Audio HA-R124 600 Watt Single 4 Ohm 12″ Subs.

Specifications

If you own a Chevy Silverado from 99 to 2006, then this is the only model of subwoofer you will ever need or want. It's a massive powerhouse of deep vibrations, and it delivers a great range of frequencies 27Hz-1.8kHz. Its peak power output is 600Watts, and it averages out at 300Watts RMS.

This 4-Ohm model's dimensions are Width 23-1/2″ x Front Height 9-1/2″ x Rear Height 7″ x Depth 13-1/2″

Specifications

If you own a GMC Chevy from 07-2013, then this is the subwoofer model you need to install. This version comes with a premade box fit for your cab. It has a 300Watt RMS output for the pair, that maxes up to 1,000Watts (500Watts per unit)

Specifications

This ASC kit contains one 10" 4 Ohm subwoofer that delivers up to 300Watts of power with a frequency range 30-500 Hz and 86.2 dB of sensitivity.

As a single unit it's just reaching average quality output, when paired with another speaker it becomes a powerhouse of sound.

Specifications

This is a great little box of power, its standard budget friendly subwoofer for all vehicles and will fit into any system comfortably.

This single box mount contains a 10" 4-Ohm subwoofer that delivers 300Watts of power with a starting frequency range of 24Hz.

Specifications

This is another Kicker powerhouse of sound, the Kicker 44TCWC104 10″ Vented Thin Profile Subwoofer enclosure gives you maximum power for minimum cost.

This Subwoofer package will sit under any seat, is truly thin and a marvel of simple space optimization technology.

What kind of sub should you get?

Buying a sub-woofer might seem simple, but its actually a very delicate matter. A good subwoofer will bring you a lot of joy; a bad one will freak you out and most probably lead to road rage.

That's why you need to consider all the factors involved in a subwoofer system, and these include the dimensions of the box. Where will you install it, how will you attach it to the current system and the most important factor is what quality of sound will you receive?

These are the main needs that people have stressed, and these are what you need to consider:

  • An easy "off-the-shelf" sub/enclosure combo that is budget friendly. You will need an external amp when buying such a deal.
  • A simple, space-saving bass system. These are great small powered woofer systems to install, but they are limited to the amount and depth of bass that they will give you, due to their size.
  • A sub that will blend in with the car's interior. There are a number of predesigned woofer systems; they usually come with all the additional features. They are more expensive but well worth the cost since they were designed specifically for your car and for providing the maximum bass complement.
What to look for

Power: Ultimately, Power is king. This means check out the speaker wattage; you will see this in RMS or peak power output. Essentially peak power output is usually double the RMS, so if the kit states 600 peak power, it means that the speaker is 150Watt RMS. Just take note that peak power is not a continuous output, the RMS is what you want to check.

Sensitivity: Power by itself is not enough., you need sound too, and this is sensitivity. Sensitivity is measured in decibels (dB) and the higher the dB, the higher the sensitivity, the more sound you get for your power. Essentially, an 88-dB unit is average, anything above this is above average and so too with the downside.

Frequency range: This is how low the sound will be to how high it can go. A good unit will go as low as 20 Hz. However, these are costlier units and usually found in the engineered home systems and professional systems. Most car units start around 24-26Hz, and the upper range is not as important, but it does show for speaker versatility and quality if the range is high.

Enclosure type: Sound, especially low-frequency ranges travel through air, and they move air accordingly. This means that the box can amplify the power of the vibration (wavelength) and focus it directionally. A well-sealed speaker enclosure will act as a sound actuator, making it deeper and more accurate.

A number of voice coils: Now we get a bit technical, and this is important to those ear buffs that have such an acute hearing the physical aspects of the speakers make up become important. Essentially car sound enthusiasts fall into this category of people, and they prefer a dual voice coil subwoofer since these units provide flexibility in wiring up sound systems. The dual voice coil (DVC) subwoofer uses two separate voice coils, mounted on one cylinder, with individual connections, connected to a common cone.

Size of the woofer: This is a contested question, essentially the answer is down to quality. Certainly, the larger the system, the more powerful sound, but some smaller unit are so well engineered that they compete with larger ones. For the average car system, size does matter, if you can buy a 12" instead of a 10", go for it.

Impedance: This is the Ohm setting you to read about, and there are three types: 2 Ohm, 4 Ohm, and 8 Ohm. In this instance it's all about the installation, you need to match your subwoofers Ohm's to the system you are connecting to. This means that you need to check your subwoofer before you buy it when connecting to an already installed sound system.


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