Drink Magazine

Teas of the Week- 3 Classic Teas

By Dchew78 @peonyts

Last week we highlighted 3 frequently overlooked teas, this week we look at 3 classic teas that often get passed over by virtue of their illustrious history.

Sounds like a contradiction?

A very common mistake people make in sampling tea is to try one version of a particular variety and move on. For classic varieties, many producers try to make a fast buck by offering an inferior version of the variety and riding on its fame. This explains why so many versions of Long Jing tastes nothing like the real thing, not even a decent Zhejiang Long Jiang, let alone the authentic Xihu Long Jing, even though they may be labeled as Pre-Qing Ming, Shifeng, Premium etc.

This week, we look at 3 types of teas that ‘suffer’ from their fame- Iron Goddess (Tieguanyin), Wuyi Sacred Lily (Wuyi Shuixian) and Phoenix Dancong- Honey Orchid Fragrance (Mi Lan Xiang).

Tieguanyin

Teas of the week- 3 Classic Teas
Tieguanyin is one of the best known varieties of oolong teas in the world. Unfortunately, fame begets infamy. The Chinese teas that are often served in restaurants are generally not the stuff that beguiles connoisseurs down the ages and for many of us, the first Tieguanyin we encounter are in Chinese restaurants. The already mediocre quality of tea is further worsened by the combination of poor brewing habits- huge pots made of metal and over-steeping- and generally offers an underwhelming experience.

In recent years, there was an explosion in the production of Tieguanyin, notably of the ‘green style’. The green style often depends more on SOP and mechanization then experience cultivated discretion that only traditional producers possess. While its fragrance and light taste won over a legion of new converts, it does not prove as endearing as the traditional processing methods that captivated connoisseurs through the years.

Our Tieguanyin is of the medium charcoal roasted variety which gives greater depth and mouth feel to the tea. Even if you drank the tea absent-mindedly, the lingering huigan and sustained fragrance in your mouth tugs at your heartstrings. Couple with the unique natural sourness that meshes with the sweetness, you can understand why this is a favorite among traditional tea lovers.

Wuyi Shuixian

Teas of the week- 3 Classic Teas
Like Tieguanyin- albeit to a lesser extent- Shuixian is often found in restaurants, although the more likely origin of restaurant Shuixians is JianOu and JianYang rather than Wuyi, since the cost differential is marked.

In recent years, prices of Wuyi teas have gone up several folds which means there are more dishonest merchants who try to make a quick buck by passing off an inferior version- either grown on the outskirts of Wuyishan or even other parts of Fujian- as the real thing.

Wuyi Yanchas or ‘Rock Teas’ is the collective name given to teas that are grown in the core producing area (zheng yan area). Given that the area known as the core producing area of Wuyishan is only about 70 sqm, it is unsurprising that most of the ‘rock teas’ on the market are not authentic, if we go by the official definition.

Only teas grown within that reserve have a ‘yan yun’ or ‘rock harmony’ and it’s that sensation that makes addicts out of many a tea lover. That viscous mouth feel and sweet stickiness coupled with the aroma of burnt rocks makes Wuyi Yanchas a hit among connoisseurs.

It’s a shame many associate Wuyi either with weight-loss or one of the countless inferior versions that flood the market.

We invite you to experience the high-fired goodness of Wuyi teas with our Wuyi Shuixian.

Phoenix Dancong- Honey Orchid Fragrance (Mi Lan Xiang)

Teas of the week- 3 Classic Teas
Whenever we see the words ‘Guangdong Dancong’ with no further suffix, more often than not they are from the Mi Lan Xiang family since it is the largest Dancong family on the market. Unfortunately, as we discussed, fame begets imitation.

Sadly many of the fake versions of Mi Lan Xiang are often more pleasant to beginners than the real thing with artificial additives that provide a pleasant peachy honey fragrance that immediately permeates the entire room. However artificial fragrance dissipates by the 2nd or 3rd infusion but the real one can go for at least 5-6 infusions with the fragrance- albeit a slightly more muted one- intact.

What I personally find endearing about the Mi Lan Xiang is the lingering mouth feel, you can literally taste (and I don’t use the word literally in a figurative manner) it half an hour after you have consumed the last drop. What’s more, days or weeks after you last drank it, the sensation is etched in your memory.

This week’s specials

To entice you further- yes we’re upfront about our intentions- to try these classic teas they are available at 15% discount this week- from 5th Jan 2013 to 12th Jan 2013 (Singapore time).

We start the year with 3 of our favorites and hope that they become your favorites too.

Buy Tieguanyin online here

Buy Wuyi Shuixian online here

Buy Phoenix Dancong- Mi Lanxiang online here


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