binNotes | a food, wine & travel blog
by L.M. Archer, FWS | Bourgogne ML
Basque Country Redux
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Mercado de la Bretxas in San Sebastian, Spain offers fresh produce, meats, cheeses and seafood year round to local Basque and international foodies alike.
" data-orig-size="635,850" title="Mercado de la Bretxas" data-image-title="Mercado de la Bretxas" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/meercadodelabretxas-e1428345515818.jpg" style="width: 266px; height: 356px;" height="356" width="266" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/meercadodelabretxas-e1428345515818.jpg?w=224" data-original-height="356" alt="" data-original-width="266" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338206358","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"80","shutter_speed":"0.058823529411765","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/meercadodelabretxas-e1428345515818.jpg?w=635" /> Mercado de la Bretxas in San Sebastian offers fresh produce, meats, cheeses and seafood year round. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.
Parte Viega (Old Part) of San Sebastian, where pintxos bars abound, quiet in the morning light.
" data-orig-size="635,850" title="Parte Viega" data-image-title="Parte Viega" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/parteviega-e1428345558679.jpg" style="width: 266px; height: 356px;" height="356" width="266" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/parteviega-e1428345558679.jpg?w=224" data-original-height="356" alt="" data-original-width="266" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338279690","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"80","shutter_speed":"0.0075187969924812","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/parteviega-e1428345558679.jpg?w=635" /> Parte Viega (Old Part) of San Sebastian, where pintxos bars abound. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.
Txakoli, Basque region’s young, fresh zesty white wine, best served with pintxos.
" data-orig-size="1936,2592" title="Txakoli" data-image-title="Txakoli" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/txakoli.jpg" style="width: 266px; height: 356px;" height="356" width="266" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/txakoli.jpg?w=224" data-original-height="356" alt="" data-original-width="266" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338208795","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"800","shutter_speed":"0.066666666666667","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/txakoli.jpg?w=765" /> Txakoli, Basque region’s young, fresh zesty white wine, and an essential part of any pintxos crawl. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.Basque Country Redux
Recently, I posted an update about TASTE Vacations tours to Basque Country and Rioja, Spain. A reader asked if I wouldn’t mind sharing a little bit more about the visit I referenced in the post. Duly noted. Here goes. As a side note, I made the trip in 2012, before my affiliation with TASTE Vacations, so did the legwork and research myself.
Sun, Sand, Surfing…and Stars
In case you haven’t yet visited, San Sebastian ranks among the top gastronomic destination spots worldwide. Only twelve (12) miles from France, San Sebastian boasts 15 Michelin stars, including the internationally renown Arzak. For me, San Sebastian and Lyon, FR top my list of most favored food and wine travel destinations ever, both so rich in history, culture, and flavors.
Spectacular view of Playa de la Concha and Isla de Santa Clara from Monte Igueldo in San Sebastian, Spain.
" data-orig-size="850,635" title="Monte Igueldo" data-image-title="Monte Igueldo" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/monteigueldo-e1428345569110.jpg" style="width: 312px; height: 233px;" height="233" width="312" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/monteigueldo-e1428345569110.jpg?w=300" data-original-height="233" alt="" data-original-width="312" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338289640","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"80","shutter_speed":"0.00039777247414479","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/monteigueldo-e1428345569110.jpg?w=810" /> View of Isla de Santa Clara from Monte Igueldo in San Sebastian, Spain. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.
The funicular to Monte Iguela in San Sebastian, Spapin is Europe’s oldest.
" data-orig-size="635,850" title="Funicular" data-image-title="Funicular" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/funicular-e1428345493973.jpg" style="width: 174px; height: 233px;" height="233" width="174" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/funicular-e1428345493973.jpg?w=224" data-original-height="233" alt="" data-original-width="174" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338289465","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"80","shutter_speed":"0.0047169811320755","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/funicular-e1428345493973.jpg?w=635" /> A view from Europe’s oldest funicular on Monte Igueldo in San Sebastian, Spain. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.
The river Urumea runs through the heart of San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque Region.
" data-orig-size="850,635" title="Urumea" data-image-title="Urumea" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/urumea-e1428345457797.jpg" style="width: 312px; height: 233px;" height="233" width="312" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/urumea-e1428345457797.jpg?w=300" data-original-height="233" alt="" data-original-width="312" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338157290","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"1000","shutter_speed":"0.066666666666667","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/urumea-e1428345457797.jpg?w=810" /> The illuminated river Urumea in San Sebastian, Spain. | Image: L.M. Archer (c)2012.Lyon and San Sebastian both boast rivers running through them, the Rhone and Urumea, respectively. However, unlike Lyon, San Sebastian abounds with beaches, from the white sands of Playa de la Concha to the Belle Epoque boardwalk of Playa de Ondaretta to surfer haven Playa de Zurriola.
San Sebastian’s famous white-sand Playa de la Concha is a favorite tourist destination.
" data-orig-size="850,635" title="Playa De La Concha" data-image-title="Playa De La Concha" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/playadelaconcha-e1428345537229.jpg" style="width: 312px; height: 233px;" height="233" width="312" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/playadelaconcha-e1428345537229.jpg?w=300" data-original-height="233" alt="" data-original-width="312" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338197112","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"80","shutter_speed":"0.00036469730123997","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/playadelaconcha-e1428345537229.jpg?w=810" /> San Sebastian’s famous white-sand Playa de la Concha. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.
Playa de Zurriola in San Sebastian, a favorite beach for surfers because of the gentle waves.
" data-orig-size="850,635" title="Playa de Zurriola" data-image-title="Playa de Zurriola" data-orig-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/playadezurriola-e1428345546533.jpg" style="width: 312px; height: 233px;" height="233" width="312" data-medium-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/playadezurriola-e1428345546533.jpg?w=300" data-original-height="233" alt="" data-original-width="312" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"2.8","credit":"","camera":"iPhone 4","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1338308545","copyright":"","focal_length":"3.85","iso":"125","shutter_speed":"0.00026518164942986","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-large-file="https://binnotes.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/playadezurriola-e1428345546533.jpg?w=810" /> Playa de Zurriola in San Sebastian, a favorite beach for surfers. | Image: L.M. Archer (c) 2012.Heart of Basque Country
While technically part of Spain, San Sebastian, also known as Donostia, beats with a proud Basque heart. Good luck trying to decipher their gorgeously complex language, one of the oldest on earth. The written words look like a cross between Greek, Russian and Turkish, and the sound, well…enigmatic.
Pinxtos Throwdown
Linguistic puzzles aside, when attempts at Basque, Spanish and English fail, don’t despair! Basque people exude warmth, charm and humor, so sign language proves a hilarious and spirited last resort.
The efforts will leave you ravenous for the local tapas, called pintxos – exotic, memorable, and inexpensive small bites. The variety of pinxtos astounds, including fruits from the sea, jamon, cheeses, potatoes, olives and peppers, each served up with local wines, among them a fresh, exuberant local white known as txakoli.
Was my trip to San Sebastian worth the effort? Absolutely! Would I do it again? Yes! But, in all honesty, next time I’ll cut to the chase, and just hire Jenny. Hope this helps.
Cheers!
Basque country tour info lives here.
My previous post on Jenny Siddall’s Basque Country and Rioja tours lives here.
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Copyrighted binNotes 2015. All Rights Reserved. All photos courtesy the author.
