Destinations Magazine

Ze for the Zeenth Time: "But It's Good Despite Having the Wrong Sauce."

By Johntalbott

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Ze Kitchen Galerie in the 6th is a place our old downstairs' neighbors and we have been frequenting since it opened.  As Colette and I approached, out the door came Chef William Ledeuil, looking as bright and bushy as could be, save a wrist and arm sporting one of those modern space-age braces.  "Ohhhh, Bonjour, are you Ok, save the arm?"  "Bonjour, sure, how are you?" "We're great, how are you?" Chef turns around, re-enters Ze, his baby for a decade, and makes sure we're well received (coat ticket #1) and installed.  Right off the bat, some butternut squash soup appears - delicious!

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The firsts were all you could ever want in life: great shrimp raviolis, wagyu and linguine in Ledeuil's unequaled Thai-influenced sauces - except three of them seem mis-matched; whoops, hasty revision; Colette says "But it's good despite having the wrong sauce."  And she was correct.

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Rectification and reparation: out comes a lobster delight for us all.

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Our mains were all superb - with no missed steps - lamb, veal, daurade and encornet bits with sauteed baby crab legs - ummmm.

After that, there was no need for dessert; our bill with their ecologically-correct house-filtered water, 2 bottles of wine and 2 fine coffees, was 312 E or 104 E a couple.  If the chef had been there, I'm sure the sauce switch would never have occurred, but even with it, Colette was correct "But it's good despite being the wrong sauce."


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