If you ever doubted the power hormones can have on your skin, you won't when you're pregnant. Some women may get the radiant glow synonymous with carrying a baby, and find that any skin problems improve thanks to hormonal changes "and a dampened immune system," says dermatologist Dr. Derrick Phillips. "However, some women may develop new skin problems during pregnancy or experience a worsening of pre-existing conditions," he adds - from adult acne to increased sensitivity and a 'pregnancy mask' of hyperpigmentation.
"The most common problems I see in pregnant women are acne, melasma, rosacea, and flare-ups of pre-existing eczema or psoriasis," confirms Dr. Phillips. "Additionally, pregnant women often come for mole examinations. This is because moles can darken and enlarge during pregnancy, which can be alarming. There is also a group of rare itchy and blister-like rashes that occur exclusively during pregnancy and that I other times see. twice a year."
To help you navigate the minefield that pregnancy brings, here's an overview of what can happen to your skin while you're pregnant and breastfeeding - and how best to treat it with products and treatments.
The problem: hyperpigmentation and melasma
Combined with increased sensitivity to sunlight, you may experience an increase in pigment-stimulating hormones during pregnancy and these can contribute to melasma, which "manifests as light brown pigmentation in a mask-like distribution affecting the cheeks, temples, forehead and upper lip." explains Dr. Phillips. It's usually genetic and often goes away after pregnancy, but, as skincare expert Debbie Thomas points out, it's worth remembering that "many pregnancy-related hormones still remain high during breastfeeding, and it takes six to nine months." may take some time before you stop breastfeeding. However, she adds that melasma caused by pregnancy "can also become a longer-term condition."
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The products to be used: It is extra important to be safe from the sun during pregnancy and to wear a sunscreen with both high factor (SPF50) UVB protection and UVA protection. Skin expert Dr. Sam Bunting recommends a mineral version, explaining: "I like sunscreens that use the physical blocker zinc oxide when treating melasma so that UV is deflected away from the skin like a mirror." Try the Ultra Violet Lean Screen Mineral Mattifying Fragrance-free Skinscreen SPF50, a 100 percent mineral filter that won't leave an oily film or chalky finish.
"Serums and creams containing vitamin C will reduce pigmentation and brighten the complexion," says Dr. Phillips. "Azelaic acid and niacinamide also block melanin production and may improve the appearance of melasma during pregnancy."
Studies also show that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can be helpful in treating hyperpigmentation, and they are generally considered safe to use during pregnancy - depending on the sensitivity of your skin (always test a patch on a small piece of skin before use). Try exfoliating weekly with a product like the Hydropeptide Pre-Treatment Toner, which contains lactic acid, a gentle but effective AHA.
The problem: hormonal acne
With racing hormones, an increase in oil secretion and anxiety added to the mix, many women experience breakouts during pregnancy, especially around the chin, jawline and cheeks.
The products to be used: While you definitely want to stay away from traditional acne treatments that contain retinol during pregnancy, there are other active ingredients you can use. "When treating acne during pregnancy, cleansers and serums with less than 2% salicylic acid can be used to unblock pores, improve texture and treat whiteheads and blackheads," confirms Dr. Phillips. "Niacinamide and azelaic acid have anti-inflammatory properties and can help target pimples and lumps."
The problem: sensitivity and dry skin conditions
Hormonal changes during pregnancy can also increase skin sensitivities and you may find yourself becoming more sensitive not only to the sun, but also to certain products you used to love. Thomas agrees: "One of the things I notice from my expectant clients is that their skin is more reactive, even to things it would normally tolerate easily."
London facialist and author of the beauty bible Love Your Skin, Abigail James, says: "This is thought to be our body's way of protecting itself and the fetus from infection and disease." As with acne, skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea can also worsen.
The products to be used: Firstly, make sure your cleanser is gentle and free of irritation (Dr. Sam's Flawless Cleanser is ideal), and in general avoid any products containing fragrances that can cause inflammation, and opt for a mineral SPF with a broad spectrum. spectrum.
"Dry skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis can be treated with moisturizers formulated with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and urea, and emollients like ceramides and shea butter, to repair and replenish the skin barrier," says Dr. Phillips. Try the CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion which contains ceramides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
"Steroid creams and ointments can be used safely under the supervision of a dermatologist or primary care physician to treat flare-ups."
The Problem: Rosacea or increased redness
When you're pregnant, the volume of blood in your body can almost double, which can often mean that the 'healthy glow' turns into redness. Claire Barret, skincare expert at mother and baby line Bloom and Blossom says that "this really affects the small blood vessels in the face, causing many women to experience hot flashes and increased redness in their skin." The heat and increased sensitivity can also worsen rosacea if you already have it.
The products to be used: To control hot flashes, arm yourself with a refreshing, fragrance-free facial mist that hydrates skin and cools redness. Many sensitive skincare brands have anti-redness skincare lines, such as Bioderma, Ren, Dr.Jart+ and Clinique, that help regulate redness. "For rosacea, I would recommend gentle skin care," confirms Dr. Phillips. "Niacinamide can reduce redness and breakouts and will also improve the skin barrier, while azelaic acid can also be used to treat redness and breakouts."
Skin care ingredients to avoid
There are several ingredients - both natural and synthetic - that are not recommended during pregnancy:
-Retinol. Some studies have linked products containing retinol to birth and infant defects, so they are best avoided during pregnancy and while breastfeeding. James says another reason to avoid retinol-based products is that because they speed up cell turnover, they "also make the skin much more susceptible to sun damage and developing pigment spots."
-Phthalates/formaldehyde/toluene. Look out for these chemicals in perfume and nail polishes. While there is currently no definitive answer, "research is ongoing for a possible link to birth defects," James says. Look for nail polish brands like Nailberry that are formulated to be "12 chemical free."
-Ammonia. Found in some hair dyes, James says that "it has carcinogenic properties, so stay away from that." Your colorist can advise you on ammonia-free options and whether it is safe to color your hair after you are past the first trimester of pregnancy.
-Dihydroxyacetone via spray tans. This is the non-toxic active ingredient in self-tanning products that does not penetrate past the outer layer of the skin and therefore is not absorbed by the body, so you don't need to avoid it altogether. However, the effects of inhalation are not known, so you may want to avoid spray tans if you are pregnant.
-Certain essential oils. "There are several essential oils that should be used with caution during pregnancy," advises Dr. Meder. "The agents they contain have a low molecular weight and high volatility, so they can affect the body as a whole. Many essential oils increase the skin's sensitivity to UV, which is not great considering the risk of pigmentation is higher during pregnancy ." James lists basil, rosemary, juniper, jasmine, cypress, and chamomile blue as essential oils to avoid, given their potential to overstimulate and encourage menstruation. Dr. Meder adds that "camphor, peppermint extract, and mint oil are also not recommended during pregnancy, especially for people late in pregnancy or for those at increased risk of miscarriage."
Facials and procedures during pregnancy
As you might imagine, cosmetic "touch-ups" are not recommended if you are pregnant or trying to become pregnant. In our guide to cosmetic procedures during pregnancy, aesthetic doctor Dr. Ravi Jain of the Riverbanks Wellness Clinic explains that "there is no clinical evidence to suggest that injecting neurotoxins such as Botox is unsafe during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, but it is wise not to inject a toxin into pregnant women." women, in case something happens to the baby." The same goes for dermal fillers; "There is always a risk with any medical intervention," he adds. And even non-injectable treatments like deep peels and deep microneedling can also pose a risk.
"We can safely perform gentle microneedling," says Dr Zoya Awan, the medical director of Secret Aesthetics at Harvey Nichols, Birmingham, "but I wouldn't do this treatment if the patient has certain pregnancy-related medical conditions - so essentially it's I decide on a case by case basis whether to offer microneedling or not and how deep or intense I will go with the treatment."
Although most facial laser treatments are also not recommended, Thomas - an aesthetic laser expert - says Byonik, a pulse-triggered laser treatment, is safe and very useful. "It is pain-free, has no recovery time and is safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding," she confirms. "It maximizes the skin's regenerative capacity and slows the cellular aging process, while reducing the inflammation associated with acne, rosacea and sensitivity. Inflammation is also closely linked to melasma, so it can also help fight pigmentation ."
There are also numerous facial treatments that are suitable for pregnancy. Dr. Sindhu Siddiqi from the No Filter Clinic in London says their "Fire and Ice Facial is safe for pregnancy and brilliant for tackling pigmentation, dull skin, acne, acne scars and fine lines." Meanwhile, at Secret Aesthetics in Birmingham, "we can create customized facials that target problematic skin, often featuring a Hydrafacial with pregnancy-safe ingredients, tailored to a person's basic skin concerns and goals," says Dr. Awan. "But I always emphasize that these work synergistically with other skin habits. In general, no facial treatment will magically transform your skin. This comes from consistency and patience as part of a proper at-home skin care regimen."
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