Emma Jones had tried a moisturizer. Emma Jones had even tried several moisturizers, lotions, serums and soaps. But the 35-year-old real estate agent, with freckled, fair skin that itched and flaked, couldn't find a skincare product that alleviated her chronic dry spells. So when she came across a blog mentioning genetic skin testing, Jones decided to give it a try. She ordered a deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) kit from GeneHabit, a genetic testing platform that promises skin care insights that "can help you understand your skin's genetic risk for developing skin conditions like premature aging, sun damage, skin elasticity and skin allergies" and to determine if you are "predisposed to certain skin conditions, such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and wrinkles." And it not only reveals the future of your face, but also what is now obscuring your glow; deficiencies of vitamins, minerals and nutrients that manifest as skin problems.
For $99 and a quick spritz in a tube, Jones got a personalized skin care report created by scientific experts, along with a recommended beauty routine. "I never thought that my genes could have such a big impact on my skin," she says. "Previously I focused on external factors, such as the weather and the creams I used."
When Jones received her genetic file, she discovered she had a gene mutation that caused her skin to become very dry. To help, GeneHabit recommended a moisturizer. But the report went deeper, in that it suggested she incorporate products specifically containing niacinamide - an ingredient that helps regulate moisture by acting as a barrier - into her beauty routine and increase foods rich in antioxidants, such as fish, eggs and orange. juice in her diet. Jones found the process "enlightening" and the information "invaluable" in guiding the choices she made about her skin color. And after a few weeks she did indeed see improvements.
Like Jones, many people are turning to DNA testing to help them figure out the complexities of their skin and come up with a personalized plan. With just a swab from the inside of their cheek, a few drops of saliva or sometimes a blood sample, they can gain specific insights based on their genetic makeup about how their skin will age, how to treat skin conditions and sometimes how to stop problems before they occur. they occur.
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Beauty biohacking is a large, fast-growing industry within the skincare and wellness space. According to the 2023 DNA Based Skin Care Products Global Market report, the $6.5 billion genomic skin care industry is expected to grow by several billion more by 2027. With their unique approach to skin health, these next-generation companies are the antithesis of a beauty space that can feel crowded with an overwhelming amount of options and opinions.
DNA testing doesn't predict skin health in the clairvoyant way you'll get a pimple tomorrow. Instead, after you submit your saliva or blood sample, it is evaluated by a team of scientific experts who study your genetic makeup and send you a detailed report two to six weeks later.
Multiple different genes influence how the skin responds to UV rays, pollution, stress and poor diet, and some individuals carry genetic variations that make them more susceptible to premature aging, says Sara Harcharik Perkins, MD, assistant professor, department of dermatology at Yale Medical School. Companies claim that using these DNA markers gives them the ability to provide a customized skin diagnosis.
"Our customers are happy that they don't have to guess and buy products that are not effective; instead, they invest a little upfront to make sure the products they choose will work," says Darya Rzaca, an esthetician and co-owner of Atelier Beauté in Brooklyn, a skin-care clinic that offers DNA analysis. Rzaca says the tests allow her to understand whether someone is prone to acne or pigmentation issues, as well as provide insight into collagen production rates, skin elasticity and sensitivities.
On a larger scale, companies like Nordic Labs in Denmark have also started offering DNA testing. Using a small blood sample, Nordic Labs' DNA Skin division tests for 18 gene variants linked to skin health and aging, collagen formation, inflammation, breakouts, hyperpigmentation and even oxidative stress. From the resulting information, the company generates a comprehensive, holistic report highlighting personalized nutrition, wellness and skin care recommendations to support an individual's needs.
Beloved French skincare brand Biologique Recherche even offers My Beauty DNA Services at select spas and salons around the world. Using DNA sequencers, the company says it analyzes more than 600,000 genetic variations of the human genome to better understand each individual's genetic makeup, which are undetectable with other diagnostic tools. "Being aware of these skin predispositions will make it easier to address the issues that need to be treated preventively to best protect your skin," says Rupert Schmid, co-chairman of Biologique Recherche.
Other beauty biotech companies, like Parallel Health, are turning their attention to your skin's microbiome. Like the intestines, the skin has its own unique ecosystem of bacteria, fungi, viruses and mites that can compromise its integrity. Keeping it balanced is essential for maintaining a healthy complexion. If the microbial diversity of the skin barrier is incorrect, you are more susceptible to chronic inflammatory skin conditions, such as dryness, acne, eczema, rosacea and psoriasis; it can also manifest as skin sensitivity, wrinkles, or uneven skin tone.
The fact that DNA research is new means that there is a lot we don't know. The research is not yet robust and more research needs to be done. "Scientists don't understand the biology of skin care well enough [true] gene-personalized skin care is a reality right now," says Valerie Horsley, Ph.D., professor of molecular, cellular and developmental biology and dermatology at Yale University. "We don't fully understand how the DNA sequence can change skin properties." And high expectations can be costly. While the price of a comprehensive DNA test used to be around $1,000, you can still expect to spend anywhere from $100 to as much as $300. (Beware of low-priced tests online, as lab fees often incur additional costs.)
Dr. Perkins agrees: There needs to be impartial research, conducted independently, and not by for-profit companies. But she also agrees that personalized skin care is valuable and worth working toward. "The goal of tailoring skin care to the individual is important. The genetics and epigenetics of skin aging - and other skin conditions, including hyperpigmentation, acne and rosacea - is an exciting and evolving field," she says. "While we may one day have the research to make this process a viable skin care protocol, we're not there yet." That's OK, though, says Joshua Zeichner, MD, associate professor of dermatology and director of Cosmetic & Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. "Finally [DNA testing] can help consumers better select products and ingredients that meet their individual needs," he says. Sometimes it takes faith (and not a cure) to stick with a regimen that can lead to healthier skin.
The power issue of November 2023
