Backlit by the setting sun, the clouds looked like glowing tufts of cotton candy against a red-gold sky. The forested peaks of Saint Lucia slowly faded into shade as I lounged in the tropical outdoor bar of the Royal Clipper and enjoyed the heat on my skin - a welcome change from the crisp winter evenings at home. Soon we left for Dominica and a new day full of adventure awaited.
This was the second evening of a trip that has been a long time coming. For years I dreamed of cruising the Caribbean: of rum-soaked coasts and rainforests teeming with wildlife, alongside lesser-known regional delicacies. Still, I was put off by the fact that sustainability, let's face it, isn't typically one of the cruise industry's strengths.
Ultimately, I came across my solution in Star Clippers and its three large ships: which not only use up to 80 percent wind energy, but are also naturally emission-free, with the relatively little oil they use emitting less pollution than many other fuels. Star Clippers also encourages investment in the places it visits, with detailed information about each stop and shore excursions organized by local companies.
Another bonus? The ships are spectacular. I was lucky enough to travel on the Royal Clipper, which is straight out of a swashbuckling storybook and recognized by Guinness World Records as the largest square rigger in service. Watching the crew hoist (most of) its 42 sails, to the soundtrack of Vangelis' stirring Conquest of Paradise, always brought tears to my eyes.
I also liked the atmosphere of the ship. While the clipper's interior gleams with its brass fixtures and polished rosewood, and the staff dazzle in white uniforms with epaulettes, the atmosphere is casual and inclusive, and the maximum of 227 guests provides an intimate feeling that big liners can miss.
My seven-night trip, which actually went beyond the Windward Islands label, began and ended in Barbados. Here, before the cruise, I found sights that would pop up often over the next week: forested slopes, low-slung brightly colored buildings, and abundant vegetation ranging from breadfruit trees to banana plants-not to mention the sugar cane where European colonies brought enslaved Africans cultivate.
The story continues
I boarded the Royal Clipper after getting a full taste of Barbados - quite literally, thanks to a Lickrish Food Tour around the capital Bridgetown; "Lickrish" is a Bajan colloquialism meaning "voracious" and boy were we full of it afterward. Eager to sample the individual charm of each island, my plan was to book a shore excursion almost every day.
And so I did.
In Saint Lucia, I took an aerial tram through the rainforest, where metallic hummingbirds fluttered among pink hibiscus flowers under a Jurassic-esque canopy. I felt the sandpaper vine leaves grating under my fingers, tasted the sour apple kick of edible begonias and drank tamarind juice under the watchful eye of a Lesser Antillean bullfinch.
With a humorous guide who called himself "Superman," Dominica's trip was a boat ride along the Indian River. The waterway starred in Pirates of the Caribbean and with its milky green appearance and crabs scurrying among the tangle of mangroves, it wasn't hard to imagine Captain Jack Sparrow hanging out with heavy eyeliner causing havoc - especially after the explosive rum punch we drank. at Cobra's Bush Bar.
Saint Kitts experienced another slightly boozy sojourn, on the aptly named Saint Kitts Scenic Railway, while an immersive tour in French Martinique stretched from candy-colored Creole houses to a patisserie whose buttery croissants rivaled those of Paris.
But my favorite port of call was Antigua, where I took a rum-making class on Galleon Beach - a Caribbean pin-up with its caramel sands and rustling palms - with a meander around Nelson's Dockyard. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this Georgian complex was a British Royal Navy base in the 18th and 19th centuries and is strikingly surrounded by the flashy yachts of English Harbour. The museum also does a good job, especially (in my opinion) the stories of the disgusting food Navy crews once had to endure.
Back on board, excursions and other activities were listed on the paper itineraries delivered to our rooms each evening. It was a thrill to come back from dinner and discover these, beautifully produced and rolled up like a pirate's treasure map.
Some guests preferred to relax for hours and enjoy facilities such as Captain Nemo's Spa, but I found that the ship's entertainment - ranging from staff tours to stargazing and various evening events - kept me entertained, as did the water sports at the marina platform and the yoga classes (all included).
Then there were highlights that are exclusive to ships like the Royal Clipper: whether you lie on the bowsprit netting - a cordage is the only thing separating you from the sea - or climb the main mast and enjoy a panoramic view from the crow's nest. Looking out over the terracotta roofs of Bourg des Saintes, the Guadeloupe town where I had spent the morning shopping in boutiques and eating tourment d'amour (a sweet local cake), was a treat indeed.
Combining the diverse delights of the island with the novelty of a full-fledged five-masted sailing ship - the only one built since its predecessor Preussen more than a century ago - would have been a superlative for me to travel the Caribbean. With its flag parade and lame sing-along, our last dinner was cheesier than a Swiss fondue, but I still felt a pang of sadness to leave. I've never considered myself a "cruise person," but given the right ship and destination, this experience certainly won't be my last.
Essentials
Vicky Smith was a guest on Star Clippers (01473 242666; starclippers.co.uk), which offers Caribbean itineraries from November to March.
A seven-day crossing to the Windward Islands (Barbados to Barbados via Saint Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, Saint Kitts, Îles des Saintes and Martinique) costs from £1,479pp, departing on December 14, 2024; this includes an early booking discount of 20 percent, applicable when booking before April 30, 2024.
Other departures, plus flight and hotel packages, are also available.
