Last time we checked, Sephora was already quite well served for premium skin care. So what, you might ask, convinced the British beautician to free up shelf space for American brand Relevant? We think we can give you the answer in just four words: brand founder Nyakio Grieco.
Nyakio is a beauty pioneer whose inspiration is truly in her DNA. As a trailblazing entrepreneur, her passion stems from both her Kenyan heritage and a deep desire to empower other Black women through beauty.
Twenty years ago, she founded her first skin brand, Nyakio Beauty, as a love letter to her family's beauty traditions. "My grandmother was a coffee farmer and my grandfather a medicine man," says Nyakio, the U.S.-born daughter of Kenyan immigrants. "So I was really inspired to celebrate the sophistication of Africa through premium skin care."
Her story entered a new chapter in 2020 when she found herself taking a leading role in Black empowerment. "We all witnessed the racial reckoning in America," she says. "Suddenly, Nyakio became the largest black-owned beauty brand. I started showing up on all these lists and I started discovering all these Black-owned brands that I had never heard of. I always felt like I was the only one on the shelf, especially when it came to premium skin care."
Galvanized to help uplift this community, Nyakio founded Thirteen Lune, a shopping site featuring brands from around the world owned by black and brown people. At the same time, she chose to distance herself from her eponymous brand, having sold it to Unilever; a difficult decision, but she believes it opened the way to a new goal.
"I wanted to dispel the myth that black and brown people only make products for ourselves," she says. "When it comes to skincare and fragrance, most of the beauty rituals and ingredients we use across the industry come from beautiful, marginalized parts of the world."
It is within this context that Relevant was born. The choice of name was relevant. "I wanted to focus on really melanin-safe and melanin-conscious skincare," she explains. "And by that I mean products that anyone can use, but that really prioritize an underserved consumer in their formulations."
The story continues
Nyakio points out that dark skin requires a level of care that is often lacking in regular formulations. "If you look at melanin-rich skin, we almost always suffer more from problems like hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, rosacea and eczema," she says. "You don't necessarily see the redness on deeper skin tones, but it is there. My approach at Relevant is that if you formulate products with melanin-rich skin in mind, they will likely work for everyone."
Relevant is not only designed for all skin types, but is also designed to create joy. With its bright 'serotonin in a jar' style, the brand manages to look both premium and irresistibly fun. "I've seen the industry become so saturated and the joy taken away from skin care," says Nyakio. "By using all these colors, I hoped it would be magnetic for everyone, but also safe for melanin, melanin-wise. My real intention was to make sure no one felt left out."
The best relevant products
Red beauty editor Lynne Hyland picks the best relevant products, now available at Sephora in the UK...Relevant Sunburst C+ Superfruit Serum
It's called a serum but in reality this is a beautiful facial oil. With stabilized vitamin C in a non-irritating yet powerful 15% dose, it delivers the benefits without the burn. Although Nyakio and I have very different skin tones, we both know what it's like to have too much of this powerful antioxidant, and personally I find this formula a joy to use. Not only is it a fantastic shield against free radicals, it leaves my skin comfortable, silky soft, makeup-ready and glowing without being greasy.
Relevant Beam + Glow Eye Serum, £52
All Relevant products are aimed at all ages and all skin tones, with the notable exception of this one. It contains what Nyakio calls "active tightening technology" for an immediate smoothing effect on lines (I can definitely see it), and over time it promises to reduce dark circles. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for that, although the line-skimming effect will keep me using it anyway.
Relevant Sol Tone Resurface & Glow Solution, £56
Nyakio and I completely agree on this: if there's one DIY skin product that can damage sensitive skin, it's an acid peel. Created after Nyakio experienced reactions from other chemical exfoliants, the Relevant formula contains five brightening acids plus soothing witch hazel. "It's done at levels that are safe for all skin tones, and it's gentle enough for everyday use," says Nyakio. I've tried it five times on my acid-averse skin and so far it's going great.
Relevant Lights Out Rest Mask, £32
Great name, brilliant product. At the end of a long day, I want a nighttime treatment where I can rest, without having to remove it. "I like rest masks. I think a treatment that you apply and wipe off is very wasteful," Nyakio agrees. Her formula provides such luscious, facial softness that I'm tempted to wear it during the day too. The secret of his success? Azelaic acid, the multi-purpose favorite of dermatology and something the rest of us are finally getting around to.
Relevant 13 Stems Eau de Parfum
Perfume? In a skin care line?! Do not adjust your screen. This EDP started as a side road, after Byredo superfan Nyakio approached the brand's nose, Jérôme Epinette, and eventually developed six fragrances with him. This, their first, has a backstory as compelling as the scent itself (a 'can't stop sniffing' green blend of cucumber, violet leaf and green pepper, with that opening freshness softened by cashmere, amber and white leather base notes) .
"I was always so concerned about life's prime moments," says Nyakio. "We care about the new job, the marriage, the babies, but in between those boom times we have moments where we have to rebuild - and that gives us our strength and allows us to grow. So I wanted a perfume that celebrates the core of the perfume rather than just the bloom. If you have a strong stem, you can bloom again and again."
And what could look better on everyone's skin than that?
Where can you buy relevant products in the UK?
SHOP NOW Relevant is now available to shop in the UK via Sephora.
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