Imagine an expedition to Antarctica and your mind could be forgiven for conjuring up Shackleton's terrifying silhouette: his thin, wind-swept body surrounded by snow-capped mountains and a white haze of hardship. But as I sip my second macchiato of the morning and watch a crabeater seal glide its way to the ice floe below me, I reason that the modern experience is something far more luxurious - especially when you're aboard the smoothest, most powerful icebreaker . in the world, Le Commandant Charcot.
Launched in 2021 by French operator Ponant (a company known for its stylish fleet of sophisticated cruise ships), this 31,000-ton, 150-meter beauty is busy delivering next-level luxury in one of the most inhospitable places on earth. Intrepid explorers keen to follow in the footsteps of pioneers can now spend their mornings walking alongside emperor penguins and then book an oil-stained lout at the spa.
"This ship offers the most luxurious experience possible in what remains one of the few truly wild places in the world," said Casey Perry, Le Commandant Charcot assistant expedition leader and naturalist. "And because it's the most powerful ship of its kind, we can go places where other ships simply can't even go."
I joined Le Commandant Charcot on a 14-night, 16-day exploration of the Weddell Sea - a volatile body of water in the Southern Ocean that provides a gateway to some of the Arctic's most iconic animals, including emperors, leopard seals and humpback whales. But the adventure begins in Ushuaia, Argentina, where I check into one of the luxurious 123 cabins. Every space is elegantly thought out, with Diptyque toiletries waiting for me in the shower and a pillow menu that invites me to consider a lavender-scented pile of firm or feather headrests.
Guests will also be gifted a pool-ready parka, a waterproof backpack and a leather-bound notebook to jot down their onboard musings and adventures. In short, Ponant understands that details matter - and it's clear that a huge amount of time, expertise - and money goes into it. - every effort has been made to make this ship not only the most impressive and efficient ship of its kind (Le Commandant Charcot can break up to three meters of ice at the bow, up to 15 meters at the stern, and can navigate through more compact ice floes than any other liner in the Arctic), but also the most aesthetically refined.
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Designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte and Jean Philippe Nuel, the interiors offer unadulterated elegance, with curvilinear walls; an interplay of textures including walnut, oak and leather; and modern art installations that add a contemporary flair.
There are two lounge areas to enjoy: the Observatory Lounge - which consists of boucle-clad bucket seats and sofas, super-sized wooden board games and floor-to-ceiling views - and the Main Lounge - a warmer, cozier space leading to the specialist Cigar Room and Theatre, hosting a daily program of naturalistic lectures, expedition briefings and polar-focused films.
There's a gym and wellness area with an indoor pool, Scandinavian-style sauna, snow room, treatment suites and a salon (yes, you can actually get your highlights touched up in Antarctica), plus a juice bar for ginger shakes, should you so desire. want to experience the dreaded 'Drake shake'.
Meanwhile, the two restaurants on board are a gastronomic delight: Nuna, a gourmet option, offers menus created by Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, while the upper deck eatery opens onto an outdoor lagoon for a heated alfresco dip among the ice-cloaked mountains (of course champagne in hand).
After navigating the notoriously unpredictable Drake Passage (luckily we experienced the calmer, more comfortable 'Drake Lake' crossing) and through a field of majestic icebergs, Captain Stanislas Devorsine points out our first spot of penguins in the ice below, the iconic black, white and golden silhouettes glide with impressive power and grace through the white, moon-like snowscape beyond.
Antarctica is one of the few wild places on earth; a place that is unspoiled, pure and adventurous. A place like no other.
Casey Perry, assistant expedition leader
Later, as we sail further south towards the Larsen C Ice Shelf, a pod of killer whales cruises on the starboard side of the ship. And then there are the gentoo penguins, chinstrap colonies, humpback whales and an abundance of seals - including leopards, Weddell and crabeaters - to admire during our zodiac landings at Aitcho Island, Carlsson Bay, Half Moon Island and Snow Hill, where we spend a magical few days walking with a shuffling army of emperors, their 'highway' to the ocean just meters from my feet.
Kayaking excursions, polar walks over mountain ranges and even a dip in the blue of -2°C follow; every day seems more surreal and beautiful than the last. As I take in the vastness of this continent's white desert, frozen sculptures rising around me like an ice forest, it suddenly strikes me that Le Commandant Charcot offers an experience more like a spaceship than an exploration vessel.
"It's very otherworldly," Perry agrees as we traverse Snow Hill Island, where Adélie penguins emerge through cracks in the ice while a leopard seal basks in the sun nearby. "That's what I love about Antarctica - it's one of the few wild places on earth; a place that is unspoiled, pure and adventurous. A place like no other."
As the sapphire sky reluctantly gives way to gold and another caviar tasting begins on board, I wonder what Shackleton would have made of it all - and order another glass of champagne.
Emblematic Antarctica aboard Le Boréal, L'Austral or Le Lyrial starts from £9,900 per person, based on two people sharing a Superior Stateroom. Round-trip flights and transfers, plus a pre-cruise night in a Buenos Aires hotel, are included. Meanwhile, the polar research voyages aboard Le Commandant Charcot are heading to the Arctic in 2024 ponant.com for more information or to book.
