Destinations Magazine

Nouakchott to St Louis Via Rosso

By James Smith @onlybyland

Nouakchott to St Louis via Rosso

Saudi Mosque in Nouakchott

I stayed in Nouakchott 2 nights at an apartment for about €20 per night, it was right next to the Hotel Tfeila.  Most other hotels seemed to be at least double the price.  I visited the Saudi Mosque and the Olympic stadium, I read you could go inside the stadium, but it was closed up when I visited.  The presidential palace is heavily guarded so don't waste your time looking for it.

Nouakchott to St Louis via Rosso

Minivan - Nouakchott to Rosso, Senegal border - 2500 Ouguiyas

The minivan to Rosso leaves from Carrefour Madrid, you can say this to the taxi driver and tell him Taxi a Rosso, he should know where to take you, if not get another taxi.  I went at 7am and there were plenty of people to fill up several minivans.  The service to Rosso is 2500 Ouguiyas.  Once at Rosso, get off at the last stop and you will probably be followed by hecklers wanting to help you get through the border.  I did need a copy of my visa page to give to an official at the police station.  Do not let any hecklers carry your bag, but do slyly use them as they know the points you have to visit to get your stamp out of the country.  You don't have to pay anyone anything and the heckler who hasn't let you out of their site probably just wants a small tip or to change your money.

Nouakchott to St Louis via Rosso

Ferry over the Senegal River in Rosso - Free

There are ferries constantly crossing the river over to the Senegalese side of Rosso, this is a free service for foot passengers.  Police greet the ferry in Senegal, they take your passport and you go straight ahead to the police station and wait for a stamp.  You don't need a visa to enter Senegal and the stamp is free.  People will lie to you and say it is illegal to take money through customs in Senegal, I changed my leftover Ouguiyas, about 20 euros worth, which is more than enough to get to St Louis or Dakar, where you will find ATM machines.  The police didn't ask, or look for, euros / dollars, so it is fine to take these through.  You do get a better rate for Ouguiyas at the border though, I changed mine at 6000 Ouguiyas for 10000 Francs, which is actually better than the XE exchange rate.  Check the rate before coming to the border so the money changers don't take advantage, because they will try.  I then took a bike to the bus station which I agreed to be 300 francs, but during the ride he talked it up to 500 for the baggage.

Nouakchott to St Louis via Rosso

Share taxi from Rosso to St Louis - 2000 francs + 1000 for baggage

The share taxi was 2000 francs, and an extra 1000 francs for my luggage.  It was a Peugeot 505 estate from the 1980s, no air conditioning, the doors and windows didn't work properly, none of the gauges worked, it wouldn't start in first gear.  But it made it to St Louis in just over 2 hours.

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