Of all the clothes that have disappeared from men’s wardrobes over the last hundred years, sleepwear is the most surprising. Sweatpants and t-shirts have replaced dressing gowns and pajamas, and while I’m not one to romanticize tradition, sweats and tees just aren’t as comfortable. Loose fitting PJs are terrific, no more difficult to put on, and frankly look a whole lot better. And nothing is easier to wear than a wraparound gown or robe. In another generation, some men used to wear these things to meet their valet, but in more practical and relatable experiences, I find they’re great for staying warm in the morning when making breakfast.
Years ago, Jacob Gallagher at the Wall Street Journal wrote a piece exploring whether men still wear pajamas. There aren’t many, and among those who do, some are apparently trying to sell others a set (Andy Spade, one of the proprietors behind Sleepy Jones, was quoted). The reasons given for PJs were predictable – they confer a better sense of self-respect when you’re at home (I have none to begin with, so that matters little), and they allow you to look presentable should an unexpected guest drop by.
Those justifications seem like a stretch, but along with comfort, I find good sleepwear helps you get out of bed in the morning. Homes in the Bay Area aren’t terribly well insulated, which means in the winter, you can stay wrapped under your covers forever if your choices are covering yourself with a blanket or slipping into a chilly pair of jeans. PJs are comfy, reasonably warm, and help you transition from the bitterness of waking up to the joy of putting on your regular clothes. For guys who hate getting up in the morning, like me, good PJs and a robe are make the routine feel a little better.
I find it’s nice to have a few pairs, depending on the season. Linen and cotton-linen blends are great for spring/ summer, especially in how they wear cool and airy. Depending on the fabric, linen can start off a bit scratchy, but it softens into a buttery, springy fabric after a few washes (bedsheets are called linens because they used to be made from the material). In colder months, I like brushed cotton and oxford, coupled with a heavy wool dressing gown for warmth. Nothing too Hugh Hefner-ish, just something cozy with an interior closure to keep the inside wrap from swinging out.
If you have a shirtmaker, you’ll find PJs can be custom made for not much more than what you’d pay for ready-to-wear. The construction here is simple and straightforward, and the fit doesn’t need to be terribly exact since PJs ought to fit loosely. I prefer bottoms with an elasticated waistband, which isn’t as stylish as a tie-string, but is infinitely more comfortable. Pockets and locker-loops are a must. And while blue is always a stylish color, solid-blue PJs in flat plain-weaves can look vaguely clinical. I prefer them in slightly more variegated weaves or other colors, such as tan.
Despite few people wearing PJs nowadays, the market for ready-to-wear sleepwear is surprisingly good. You can get quality pajamas from almost any high-end shirtmaker, such as Budd, Turnbull & Asser, Emma Willis, Charvet, and Ascot Chang (the last of which is who I use). Companies such as Derek Rose specialize in traditional sleepwear, while relatively newer upstarts such as L’Hotel, La Perla, and Sleepy Jones are trying to pull in a younger market. Sleepy Jones makes vaguely hip looking PJs, although I find the cuts too slim and constricting for comfort. L’Hotel captures the romantic look of another era, almost like the what you’d expect to find in a 1950s French hotel. For something more affordable, check J. Crew, Brooks Brothers, and Ralph Lauren.
It’s a lot harder to find good dressing gowns. You can get robes at any number of places, such as J. Crew, Pendleton, and Brooks Brothers, but they’ll often be made from flimsier brushed cotton flannels. Perfectly nice, but they lack the heft and warmth of old-school gowns. For something with a bit of weight, you can try Derek Rose and The Merchant Fox, but they’re dearly expensive (bespoke here is surprisingly cheaper, but not much more so). Bathrobes are readily available at Manufactum, Hammacher Schlemmer, and Cleverly Laundry, although those aren’t really the same thing.
People can and should sleep in whatever they want, but trust me when I say mornings are better with pajamas. There’s a real pleasure and comfort to having a morning routine, and whatever is right for you, it’ll feel even better in a pair of good PJs and, if you can find one, a comfortable robe.
Pictured below: some of my favorite sleepwear photos, along with a few videos from the Southern California radio station Power 106. This year, they’ve had guests read Anna Dewdney’s children’s book, Llama Llama Red Pajama, a New York Times bestseller. The results are hilarious and surprisingly catchy.
