Destinations Magazine

Matière à.... in the 10th: I'm a Peasant and This is Too Refined Upperclass Food for Me.

By Johntalbott

Fri 001

Fri 003

Fri 002

3.5 Matière à...., 15, rue Marie et Louise in the 10th, 09.83.07.37.85 (Metro: Gare de l'Est, Goncourt, Colonel Fabien), closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, was a place a blogger-friend who specializes in restos of the 10th raved about a month ago or so. I booked.  Then Colette said "Forced choice menu, dangerous."  And I cancelled.  Then a trusted Chowhounder wrote that she loved it.  So today, I was on my own and decided to try it.

The fascade is the now-requisite anonymous gunmeter gray fascade unmarked save for tiny lettering in the window.  There is a table d'hote for 15, one table for two and one outside for two as well but the kitchen is quite commodious.

Fri 005

Fri 006

Fri 004

Before anything, the waitguy brought out a nice loaf of bread (homemade he said) with ginger-peanut butter (equally so) - this was the highlight of the meal - not astonishing in retrospect, when I leaned the chef was a baker by training.  The first course was a thick cream of broccoli with raw and cooked cauliflower and broccoli, mustard and nuts.  And the second was a filet of daurade with a citronated crisp skin, confited Jerusalem artichokes, slices of raw Granny Smith apples and a cream of watercress.  Truth be told, both dishes had a healthy undistinguished blandness that cried out for some character - if they had been served together I'm not sure I could have distinguished their ingredients blindfolded.

My bill with a half-bottle of South African wine and no coffee or dessert, was 30.50 E.

Go?  All my sources love it so sure.


Back to Featured Articles on Logo Paperblog